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Discussion Starter #1
This is a repost from another thread:

Hey Guys,
I'm new at this but thought it was the best way to get some expirenced answers to some questions that I had. First off I have 90 lx 2.3L Mustang. Some of the changes that I have made have been 8.8 tracloc rearend, cold air intake, and ranger header. My question is what is a good cam for street/strip use? I thank you guys for your time and will be waiting for all your input.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have access to a 91 to 93 roller cam but I don't know if I can get more hp from a after market one or not.
 

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would you be better off going with the 91-93 roller cam or the cams from esslinger?
why do you guys keep telling people the site esslinger because that site has nothing to do with cars at all its for watches and jewelry stuff lol. also another ? what do you guys mean when you use the phrase 2.3 n/a is that a certain motor or something its confusing me to heck
 

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N/A is an acronym for Naturally aspirated induction, meaning the engine uses atmospheric pressure to charge the cylinders, not a turbo or supercharger to fill the cylinders.

Craig.
 

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N/A is an acronym for Naturally aspirated induction, meaning the engine uses atmospheric pressure to charge the cylinders, not a turbo or supercharger to fill the cylinders.

Craig.
oh ok thanks for the info thats what i kinda thought but wasnt sure if i was in the right direction or not
 

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OOzzy, if you don't want to pull the valve springs out of the head, you could choose a cam which has less than .425" lift.

Racer Walsh RWA1431R

Crane 194621

and Comp Cams 260H # 70-123-5.

All of these cams fall within the parameters of what the stock valve springs will handle, if you are just looking for a bolt on and you don't want to pull the head.

I have tested the Crane and the Comp Cams .420" grinds.

With tuning and a few other mods, they are both capable of 20-30 HP over the stock cam and with a little tuning and a few more mods, you could squeeze a bit more HP out of your engine without breaking the bank.

The Crane and Comp cams grinds sell for less than $150.00. You will need new followers for these. The followers sell for less than $70.00

Craig.
 

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Isky also offers 2.3 grinds....
 

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Yeah, Isky sells some nice cams, but I believe all of the grinds they sell are solid lifter profiles, which work fine, but require consistent adjustment. I used to run a Racer Walsh solid lift cam in my 76 Capri, it worked awesome with a turbo, but required a little machine work to install the solid lash adjusters. Of course you will need new springs, followers and a set of lash adjusters to go with one of their cams and then there is the ticking noise you get with a solid lifter cam, which I don't mind, but some find the sound annoying.

Just my 2 Cents.

Craig.
 

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Shoot me if i'm wrong but i don't think the ecu will handle much more cam than a 420 or so without idle problems The other side of the 2 cent's
 

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Shoot me if i'm wrong but i don't think the ecu will handle much more cam than a 420 or so without idle problems

True, things do get a little less stable with the next batch of cams and I think .420" lift is a good marker for this. It seems like most of the cam manufactures really jump in terms of their lift profile specs after this point.

I can only think of one cam, which bridges the .420" gap and still works with the stock ECU. I have used the comp cams 268H #70-127-5 on several engines. It requires the use of a slightly stiffer valve spring, but other than that, can be run on an otherwise stock engine. It's profile generates close to .440" actual valve lift. There is a notable increase in power with this cam, compared to the .420" grinds.

I am installing this cam in my current project, with some moderate port/chamber work and some head resurfacing to bring compression to 10.0:1. Idle speed will be set at 1,000 RPM for stability.

Craig.
 
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