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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 01 GT that originally came with the Mach 460 setup. Since then I have replaced the headunit with a Pioneer U310BT and some Pioneer 6x8 coaxial speakers. I want to bump it up to these component speakers.

Only question I have is what's the best way to wire these? RMS will be too much for the headunit so I wanted to run them off of the 460 amps and retain the stock harness and wiring. I was thinking my best bet was just to ditch the included crossover, wire the tweets where the stock highs are right now, and the mids where the 6x8s are now. Will that work or do I have to run the crossover?

The reason I was thinking that would be an option is because my current coax 6x8's are only pushing bass, and no treble because that's what the 6x8's are filtered for when setup with the stock amps and wiring.

So, any ideas?
 

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what do you mean that the rms will be too much for the head unit?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
RMS on the speakers and 74 per speaker, so that would put me at 288 watts RMS, but the headunit is rated at 200 RMS, and I am sure that's even pushing it. I would like to match up the RMS better, and I have a feeling I will need the Mach 460 amps to do so.
 

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The Mach 460 used two 8 ohm speakers wired in parallel for the amp to see a 4 ohm load. If you use two 4 ohm speakers, the parallel configuration with the factory harness and wiring will present a 2 ohm load to the amp and will more than likely send it into protection mode and/or overheat.

You'll be better off using a dedicated amp for the components.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The Mach 460 used two 8 ohm speakers wired in parallel for the amp to see a 4 ohm load. If you use two 4 ohm speakers, the parallel configuration with the factory harness and wiring will present a 2 ohm load to the amp and will more than likely send it into protection mode and/or overheat.

You'll be better off using a dedicated amp for the components.
Not an option, headunit or Mach 460 speakers, pick one.
 

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You can run it on the head unit. But IMO it will defeat the purpose of buying component speakers.
 

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You'll get clipped signals from the head unit amp when you crank the volume up because it just doesn't have the power. Yeah sure you'll have the sound stage effect components give but you're gonna need more power to take advantage of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You'll get clipped signals from the head unit amp when you crank the volume up because it just doesn't have the power. Yeah sure you'll have the sound stage effect components give but you're gonna need more power to take advantage of them.
And the Mach 460 amps cant power them? Or are those RMS really low? I haven't looked up their numbers.
 

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The Dude Abides
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Buy an aftermarket amp and wire the components to that. The deck won't have enough power and the factory amp will have the wrong ohm load. Trust me it will sound better with a dedicated amp.
 
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And the Mach 460 amps cant power them? Or are those RMS really low? I haven't looked up their numbers.
They can power the speakers, BUT you will be presenting a resistance to the amplifier that is half of what it is designed to run on. This will make the amps run very hot and go into protection mode. Buy a dedicated amp to run the components on. You will be much happier.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That makes sense but between the Mach 460 amps and the headunit I have enough power to match RMS. What if I bridged the amps just to the rear speakers? That would present them at a 4 ohm load rather than the 8 ohm load per channel. The speakers RMS is also at 4 ohm so that would match. Than the front speakers go to the headunit.

Will that work?
 

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It doesn't work like that. To properly run those component speakers, you need 75W RMS at 4 ohms per channel. The Mach amps cannot do this and neither can the head unit. You can run the component set off of the head unit, but the head unit is rated at 14 W RMS per channel. Not 200 like you stated before. 200 is the max wattage the HU amp can deliver at once to all 4 channels. Not very ideal at all.

To take advantage of the component set you want to use, get a proper amplifier to power them. If you don't want to do that I suggest you leave it as is. Not worth trying to make the Mach 460 work with what you're trying to do.

I thought about replacing speakers and doing what you're talking about with mine. I ended up ripping out the entire Mach 460 system and rewiring my own system from the head unit back.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I thought about replacing speakers and doing what you're talking about with mine. I ended up ripping out the entire Mach 460 system and rewiring my own system from the head unit back.
That's been the plan, just remove the amps and stock stereo wiring and lay fresh wires to a 4 or maybe even 5 channel amp and be good to go. I just don't have much money to spare for that and wanted to make some component speakers work.

What speakers are you running now?
 

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This is what I have at the moment. Need to get a different 4 channel. Its too weak for the components I have up front.

Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X591 HU
Polk db 5.25" components in front
Polk db 5.25 coaxials in rear
Boston Acoustics G310-4 subs (2)
Boston Acoutsics GTA-800m
Boston Acoustics GTA-504
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This is what I have at the moment. Need to get a different 4 channel. Its too weak for the components I have up front.

Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X591 HU
Polk db 5.25" components in front
Polk db 5.25 coaxials in rear
Boston Acoustics G310-4 subs (2)
Boston Acoutsics GTA-800m
Boston Acoustics GTA-504
Why on earth did you go with 5.25's? Haha, their are plenty of 6x8's.
 

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The Dude Abides
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check out sonicelectronix.com

They have great deals on stereo stuff. You've got some respectable stereo equipment there. With right amp and tuning it should sound very good.

I'm running JL 6x8 components all around
A single 10" Diamond Audio D6V2 subwoofer
1 farad capcitor

4x100 JL audio 4 channel amp
500x1 Diamond mono amp for my sub

When I turn this up to a slightly uncomfortable level in the car, I can close the doors with the windows up, walk 40-50 feet away and still here the highs and mids crystal clear.

If my loud exhaust doesn't cause instant window roll up at a stop light, my stereo does. When I see someone on their iphone next to me, I crank Slayer and watch them squirm.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
check out sonicelectronix.com

They have great deals on stereo stuff. You've got some respectable stereo equipment there. With right amp and tuning it should sound very good.

I'm running JL 6x8 components all around
A single 10" Diamond Audio D6V2 subwoofer
1 farad capcitor

4x100 JL audio 4 channel amp
500x1 Diamond mono amp for my sub

When I turn this up to a slightly uncomfortable level in the car, I can close the doors with the windows up, walk 40-50 feet away and still here the highs and mids crystal clear.

If my loud exhaust doesn't cause instant window roll up at a stop light, my stereo does. When I see someone on their iphone next to me, I crank Slayer and watch them squirm.
Why a cap? I never used them back in the day.

Ok, since we are comparing systems here; I use to have.

Pioneer class D 1000x1 amp
Rockford Fosgate P2 12" in a 3 cubic foot vented box made by muah
the headunit was crap.... and speakers were stock the whole time, but MAN. This thing sounded like a triple stack 15". Loved it, but their is no way I would put that in my car, haha. I am trying to save weight, and I know that component speakers are the next best thing to a sub.
 

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The Dude Abides
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Why a cap? I never used them back in the day.

Ok, since we are comparing systems here; I use to have.

Pioneer class D 1000x1 amp
Rockford Fosgate P2 12" in a 3 cubic foot vented box made by muah
the headunit was crap.... and speakers were stock the whole time, but MAN. This thing sounded like a triple stack 15". Loved it, but their is no way I would put that in my car, haha. I am trying to save weight, and I know that component speakers are the next best thing to a sub.
The cap provides extra on tap power when the system is really cranking. I noticed before it was installed, that the sound would fall off after a couple minutes of high volume thrashing. In went the cap, and no more power loss.
 
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