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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I'm trying to find out what I need to do for my fuel system!

I'm building a 347 stroker should have N/A 400-450hp "at the crank"
I know ill need to upgrade all the fuel system ( fuel rail, throttle body, injectors, fuel pump, fuel regulator, MAF sensor, intake, and computer) to tune it all right...

Do I just upgrade the stock stuff that's already there or do I say " to hell with it" and spend the extra money and buy a new fuel injection system?

FAST EZ-EFI Multi-port Electronic Fuel Injection kit SBF up to 550 hp

Edelbrock EFI-PRO-FLO 2 EFI system 1500 to 7000rpm Intake up to 450 hp

ACCL DFI-Ram fuel injection system. Multi-port EFI 2800-7000rpm Intake 400-450hp

What do y'all think I am looking for easy tuning and reliability
 

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Fuel lines and rails will be fine. Do a 255lph pump and 42# injectors or larger. Me personally would go with a LMAF or a slot MAF with a homemade housing, and a 4" powerpipe. I bought an abaco dbx meter and would have saved money with either of the other two options. Size the TB according to the intake you get. However big the throat opening is, get that size TB.

No point in spending more money on a different computer when the one you have will work fine for what you're trying to accomplish. Get a quarterhorse, PMS, or have a chip burnt when you get it all together. Quarterhorse wont be easy tuning, but if you learn it, it will be better than a PMS, many more parameters you can fine tune. It also actually changes the parameters in the EEC as opposed to the PMS which fudges the values going in and coming out. PMS is easier to tune from what I hear and looking at it, I believe it.
 

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Stock fuel system: lmaf, 42lbers (if needed) 255 pump.
Get an sct chip and a dyno tune. You don't need stand alone.

Whats your combo? You prob wont even need 42lbers.
 

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I agree with basically what has been said already. I would just sct chip tune it, put a GSS340 intank fuel pump, probably 30 lb injectors or 36's if you are building a monster, 42's if you are going 425+ at the rear wheels or are going E85.
Now, if you have your heart set on a new digital fuel injection system, the choice is very simple if your car is a street car that will see track time a lot, then go with an Accell Gen 7. Reason being is that the gen 7 has so many more tables in it that are aimed at street manners, where the FAST, BS3 and others are aimed at all out drag cars, or people who just don't give two shits as to how their car behaves on the street. If you do go with the accell system, then go with the carb style intake with one of their throttle bodies. That will give you the best top end hp, and still be drivable, as the DFI can adapt very well to that style of intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I'm looking at street ability ( daily driver ) but I plan on taking it to the track and running it from time to time...
Combo?
347 stroker, Ford 351w "sportman" cast iron heads completely port and polished, Eagle forged crank, Ibeam rods, flat top pistons around 10.5:1, hydraulic roller lifters, unsure of the cam, either a victor intake or a new EFI intake with kit...
T-56 magnum 2.97 1st and .50 6th
3.73 rear gears

Shooting for 350rwhp to 380rwhp

I was thinking about getting a new EFI system so I could tune the car with out going to the dyno or spend a month or weeks reading trying to figure out how to work the program...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The N351 heads?
FORD Racing Performance Parts
"Sportsman" Cast Iron 351W
2.02" intake 1.60"exhaust
intake port volume 195cc, exh @ 78cc
valve angle moved from 20% to 10%
Bared Bone Heads I'll let my engine builder install the valve train..
 

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Yea those are the N351's if they've got 10* angles. Well if this guy can port, you're in good shape. Otherwise, those heads flow pretty weak for a 195CC head. You get about the same flow out of a TF170 box stock. I would think the N351 has more potential, but I don't really know a lot about them. Does this guy have a flow bench? I would be interested to hear the flow numbers on those heads after he gets done with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ill post everything I can about my build.. ill see if he has a flow bench if so ill post the numbers... I'll post everything he does to the motor and the HP I get out of the setup and my track times... ill even post my gas mileage since no one ever post that info....

The old man swears to me he can get 400-450 at the crank with no problems and he can make the cast iron heads breath better then aluminum heads!
 

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Like we've all said. The port doesn't care what the metal is made out of. You can make good power with iron heads with the right port shape. Those heads have a lot of extra meat in them and if they are the yates design, then they should make some power in competent hands. Aluminum is lighter and dissipates heat better which means (other than the obvious weight difference) you can run more compression before you run into detonation. The advantage is to aluminum, but you can still do what you're trying to do with iron heads. Just hope the old coot doing your engine knows how to make a port flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Lol I hope so too! He has be building some insane drag motors for 50 years so I think he know that he is doing... my dad and Ronnie both tell me it I want to make dependable horse power I have to run cast iron head and they will take more abuse .. Heat makes Horse Power... but I don't know everyone on here tell me to run aluminum heads
 

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Lol I hope so too! He has be building some insane drag motors for 50 years so I think he know that he is doing... my dad and Ronnie both tell me it I want to make dependable horse power I have to run cast iron head and they will take more abuse .. Heat makes Horse Power... but I don't know everyone on here tell me to run aluminum heads
Yes, heat makes hp, and cast iron heads will make a little more power if everything is the same, meaning port shape, valve sizes, combustion chamber design, etc.
The part I highlighted in bold is a common misconception from the older generation of hot rodders. Reason they are saying that is because back in the day when aluminum heads first hit the streets in the 60's, they were just made out of a basic aluminum, and they had drastically different expansion and contraction rates from cast iron, making head gasket sealing a big problem. Fast forward 50 years to today..... Now we make aluminum heads out of aluminum alloy that has completely different characteristics as far as expansion and contraction rates, and head gasket technology is well, 50 years advanced from then. So this line of thinking is not accurate today. Dependable hp can be had from an aluminum engine. I just finished porting a buddy of mine's heads he just took off his engine I built for him back in 99. It's a 306 with TFS heads, and this is the first time the engine's been apart since 99. Everything worked and ran great, cars been in the 11's all motor, so it is pretty darn dependable I think.
 

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Without flow numbers, before and after, you might as well send them to Backyard Bob. And I don't buy the heat makes horsepower theory. Might as well suck hot air in while you're at it.
 

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Well I'm looking at street ability ( daily driver ) but I plan on taking it to the track and running it from time to time...
Combo?
347 stroker, Ford 351w "sportman" cast iron heads completely port and polished, Eagle forged crank, Ibeam rods, flat top pistons around 10.5:1, hydraulic roller lifters, unsure of the cam, either a victor intake or a new EFI intake with kit...
T-56 magnum 2.97 1st and .50 6th
3.73 rear gears

Shooting for 350rwhp to 380rwhp

I was thinking about getting a new EFI system so I could tune the car with out going to the dyno or spend a month or weeks reading trying to figure out how to work the program...
With this combo, I'd say just stick with stock electronics and use a moates quarterhorse so you can tune it yourself. Good luck with it.
 

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Without flow numbers, before and after, you might as well send them to Backyard Bob. And I don't buy the heat makes horsepower theory. Might as well suck hot air in while you're at it.
Not a fan of physics are ya? lol. I would rather have a set of aluminum heads any day, after lugging my stockers over the fender more than once, I am done with cast iron heads, unless it's a set of 426 hemi heads, I'd gladly heave those around.
 

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Non human/robot reply

It's interesting that this site would question if i'm a robot. This amuses me. I build robotic machinery and have never heard one LOL. Any way I'm new to the injection/fuel air mix on a 347 stoker. I have stock pump and fuel rail/injector. Also 1995 stock EEC. trick flow intake, 70 mm TB, World products heads 2.02" w 65 cc camber, ford cam .50" lift. 10:1 comp. full headers. This is a coast high performance street engine naturally aspirated. Estimated 400 hp. I'm open for suggestion for this fuel system.
 
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