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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need more power! I have an 1987 5 liter 5 speed with the following mods: 3.73 gears, rebuilt limited slip, flowmaster 2.5 catback exhaust, Pro 5.0 shifter, 2 row alum radiator, plus the free stuff (timing, etc.). I just had the gears put on this year and love them. I would eventually like to go low 12's. I would prefer more power at the higher rpms since without slicks, I probably will just spin if I get too much at lower rpm's. I want to stay away from nitrous and slicks. I want reliability and am on a budget. By budget, I could probably spend about $1000 per year (could save for a year so I have $2k in one year) I was thinking whatever I do, I will get the car ready by upgrading the fuel system, etc to make the car ready for either heads/intake/cam or supercharger or whatever. Has anyone been in this situation before and what did you do? I was originally thinking of the powerdyne with a fuel system upgrade but have read so many negative things about them on forums. Then I was going to go with heads,intake,cam but hear comments that if you take apart the motor, people have problems. So many ways to make power, very confused about what to do. What would be a good combo for me to get to the low 12's? Even if it takes 4 or 5 years, that would be ok I guess, just want to get there as quickly and cheaply as possible. I've heard of people using GT40p heads and intake(explorer I think) and they've said this is a good budget upgrade. What do you think??? I want to learn as much as possible before next spring when I'll start this project. (maybe something little over the winter since I'll have more time then). Thanks for your input!!
 

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or a cobra.
 

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or save up $3,500 over 3 years and put a vortech v-3 supercharger on it...thats wat i did..boost is magical
 

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before you do anything more. get full length subframes and longtubes with an o/r h-pipe or x-pipe...that way you can have a nicer (and louder) exhaust note along with the added power and not twist up your car in the meantime while you save more money for: the stock lower and stock maf is the bottle neck...after you free those up look to your heads as the meak link

imo spending the money on a supercharger before upgrading your engine is wasted money
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A "few" questions: If I upgrade the fuel system to get ready for future mods, will it be ok to add a 255 lph in tank pump and 42#/hr injectors? Will this change work ok and reliably with everything else untouched? I know this won't get any more power immediately, but will get car ready for some later so I don't lean out:rockon. Will this just lower the duty cycle of the injectors, but still idle and run ok? Will the stock speed density and computer work as is with this mod, or will something need recalibrated? Of course, once I need, or if I need, to switch to mass air, I'll be sure to get one calibrated to match the injectors.
Also, I think the first year, I'll put on unequal shorties and an o/r X pipe. The reason for these headers is the car is lowered 1 1/2" (forgot to mention earlier) and I don't want the long tubes scraping the ground. It's street driven and only sees the strip probably once or twice a year. Also, I want to be able to easliy change the spark plugs without making an erector set out of ratchet extensions like I've heard with the equal length shorties. From what I've read, the HP increase isn't that much anyway. Will the aftermarket headers really flow that much better than stock?
Thanks for all the input!!!!
 

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what kinda power are you hoping you'll make to need 42# injectors??? even with boost you shouldn't need to go over 24#'s
 

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I have equal shorty's on my car and sparkplugs aren't bad at all. Nothing compared to my V8 S10. And my buddy has longtubes with an x-pipe and he's lowered and doesn't have anyproblems. Infact I scrape my catback flanges more then he does his collectors.
 

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yea as far as long tubes scraping the ground, my car is lowered 1.5 in the front and 1.25 in the back and i have no problem with my long tubes scraping...
 

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If I upgrade the fuel system to get ready for future mods, will it be ok to add a 255 lph in tank pump and 42#/hr injectors? Will this change work ok and reliably with everything else untouched?
The fuel pump will be fine but the injectors will flood the **** out of your motor and without a tune it'll run like complete dog **** if you don't wash the cylinders down lol. 42lb injectors are total over kill with a stockish car and normally require a good tune to have the driveability down in a car pushing enough power to actually make use of them so in your case it would be a complete f up in my opinion.

I know this won't get any more power immediately, but will get car ready for some later so I don't lean out:rockon.
These cars like to be on the leaner side of things until you get into a power adder.

Will the stock speed density and computer work as is with this mod, or will something need recalibrated? Of course, once I need, or if I need, to switch to mass air, I'll be sure to get one calibrated to match the injectors.
No, speed density require a retune after major mods and runs off of vacuum so once you change out the cam to something a bit more radical in so many words you'll have to have the car custom tuned and a new chip burned for the setup or convert to mass air. Mass air can adjust to bolt on's allot easier before requiring a tune to get the most out of it.

To up the injectors in a speed density car you have to have a chip burned for the mod.. maf cars you just have to match the maf sensor to what size injectors your going with.

I'll put on unequal shorties and an o/r X pipe. The reason for these headers is the car is lowered 1 1/2" (forgot to mention earlier) and I don't want the long tubes scraping the ground.
Only certain longtube header brands hang lower then others.. some are harder to install and some arent. Some have clearance issues with the steering shaft etc where some don't. They aren't legal smog wise but yield a slight gain over the shorties but if you want to keep it simple go with the shorties.

Will the aftermarket headers really flow that much better than stock?
stock headers suck balls.. they are tiny and crimped. You'll see the difference when you pull the first one off and can compare against your shortie headers.

Best thing to do with your speed density stock car is to start out small with the normal bolt ons like headers, x or h pipe, catback, gears, etc leave the stock cam until your ready to really dig into the motor.
 

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i've said it before and i'll say it again.. more horsepower won't get you down the track much faster if you don't improve your rear suspension..

move your battery to the rear of the car, pull off some of the unnecessary weight, subframe connectors, get new upper and lower control arms, maybe rear coil overs, sperical bushings.

you'd be suprised at the difference if your car is hooking up.

for reference sake, if you bought UPR upper and lower control arms, UPR spherical bushings, subframe connectors, you're looking at about $550. coilovers are around $300 depending on which ones you get, that puts you at $850.. not bad at all

once you do that, you'll be ready to handle the HP you'll be adding, and it will take some decent time off your 1/4
 

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Usually the stock suspention is good to go less control arms for a mild build. Sticky tires are a must tho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info on the injectors! I will add the fuel pump and exhaust in 2010 and wait until the charger/motor work before adding the injectors. Also, to avoid a tune as long as I can, I'll probably switch to mass air. I have an A9L with the 55mm mass air meter (too small :eek:) that I got from ebay last fall, but it will do until I start making power and maybe go to an 76/80mm.

The reason I was afraid to go to stickier tires is the stock axles and no c-clip eliminators. How much power can I safely have before having a chance of snapping an axle? I know to get the full potential, I should upgrade the suspension, lose some front end weight, and use slicks at the track. If I do launch harder, I don't want to be towing the car back home. The car doesn't see the track that often. Really just want seat of the pants feel for a car that is fun to drive around. The gears did a lot for this, but I want more. If I get into making the car optimal for track runs, I feel I'd probably need c-clip eliminators, stronger axles, etc. Then I would be getting into much more money and more time before I can afford a supercharger or motor work. Is this accurate, or am I off base here?:dunno
 

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I wouldn't worry about snapping axles yes you don't even have the suspension setup plus the t5 is the weak point then the axles plus my daily driver has all bolt ons minus a power adder and the three years i've had it, it's always had dr's on it and has been ran regularly
 

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I wouldn't worry about snapping axles yes you don't even have the suspension setup plus the t5 is the weak point then the axles plus my daily driver has all bolt ons minus a power adder and the three years i've had it, it's always had dr's on it and has been ran regularly
+1

i ripped my 1st T5 out when my car was stock with nothing but gears...

now i've got pretty much all the bolt on's for the car, (maybe 225 to the wheels if i'm lucky) and i've tore another one up.
 
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