6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
Eagle what kind of nvh were you noticing from your old upper control arms?I found that replacing the almost 200,000 mile stock struts and shocks with Koni STR.T shocks and struts from MM made a big difference. MM recommends them for stock spring and some after market springs: Eibach Prokit, H&R Sport, and H&R Supersport. I did that at the same time I replaced (again) the rear upper control arms. I got rid of the UPR ProSeries with heim joints and spherical bushings and went to an FRPP UCA with rubber bushings from MM. I thought there was just too much NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) from the ProSeries UCAs for a daily driver.The panhard bar isnt really a popular mod. I feel the rear lower and upper control arms do a good job. I don't do insane curve cutting turns so I really didn't need the panhard bar. If you so opt to get it - it's $390 from LMR - 6% = $367. This still rolls you in at $346 under budget. If you so choose to go with snubbers at $14 from LMR, you're still $332 under budget. The snubbers come highly recommended at $14 from a lot of people but I personally haven't done them so I can't comment.
There used to be long discussions on supension. Jazzer was a big fan of Griggs and talked constantly about the poor man three-link where you add a panhard bar and pull one of the UCAs. The reason you pulled an upper control arm was to prevent binding and snap oversteer. Maximum Motorsport said that you did not have to do that. But you do have to run rubber bushing in the UCAs to prevent binding. They recommend stock or FRPP control arms.
A popular mod that Jazzer did not care for was to get Bullitt/Mach 1 lowering springs and sway bars (no longer available from FRPP) and add MM lower control arms and panhard bar. A place in Ohio told me they did a dozen such mods per year. I was thinking about it but delayed too long. You could do the same thing with other after market springs. I like the Eibach Pro-kit because it is a progressive spring which offers performance with less of a jarring street ride. If I remember correctly stock springs are 450 lbs front and 210 lbs rear. Most after market springs are 600-650 lbs front and 250 lbs rear providing for a stiffer but more jarring ride. Progressive springs take a little of the jarring out. They are softer when they first start to compress and get stiffer the more they compress.
P.S. One thing you do not want to do is to run rear upper control arms with poly bushings. Spherical bushings turn. Rubber bushings flex. Poly bushings are just rigid. I have seen pictures (no longer available thanks to photobucket) of bent and damaged torque boxes from poly bushings.