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i am tired of seeing nitrous question this and that. this topic should clear up 99% of the questions asked:
first off
ITS CALLED NITROUS NOT NOS
now thats out of the way, we shall begin.
supporting mods:
a nitrous kit is just a kit, basic essentials to deliver nitrous. some safety devises to use are:
fpss (fuel pressure safety switch)- will shut off power to the nitrous system if fuel pressure drops below desired set point
window switch will activate and deactivate nitrous at desired rpm settings. there are some switches that will do gear lock out and some that will do dual stages as well.
purge this is used to remove air from the line so that you are spraying liquid nitrous at the time you hit it.
nitrous pressure gauge this will tell you what your bottle pressure is at. pressure needs to be 900psi+ to safely spray.
bottle heater bottle temp is critical to maintaining good bottle pressure. bottle pressure should be approx. 950psi range. there are 2 common types of bottle heaters available, thermostatically controlled and pressure controled.
afr switch this is a newer item on the market for nitrous cars. its works like a fpss. if the afr's go out of range, it will shut the nitrous off.
spark plugs go to a 1 step colder for up to a 150 shot. generally more than that then stp to a colder plug. if not sure, your tuner can tell you what they recommend. there is a spark plug list to use so you can get brand of choice. plug gap should be somewhere between .032-.038.
fuel rail adapter: aftermarket companies have picked up on the issue of fuel delivery on these cars. there are fuel blocks available that mounts to the rails under the frps to supply a point of access of fuel. this can be used for enrichment fuel supply, fuel pressure gauge, or whatever you may need.
wet vs dry
this is another topic i am tired of hearing about. is one safer than the other, NO. either system can be done safely if correct parts and steps are taken/used. either can be dangerous if not set up correctly. the wet is easier to set up and tune if not dyno tuning. a competent tuner can tune a dry set up easily.
whats the difference between the 2? the difference is method of enrichment fuel delivery. wet systems will add the enrichment fuel at the same point that the nitrous is delivered (ex nozzle, plate, etc). a dry system relies on the injector to supply the needed enrichment fuel.
tuning:
wet shot: these cars are set up and tuned just fine from the factory to run up to a 100 shot. can you run more, yes; do i recommend it, no. all of you guys worried about a "nitrous tune" for a 100 shot, it up to you if you want to spend the extra money for a dyno tune that will do nothing more than look at your afr's and total timing to make sure nothing was tweaked. others that are saying to pull timing, not needed at a 100 shot. if you want to feel that its safer, 1 degree is more than sufficient. the enrichment fuel is added at point of delvery with the nitrous, a wet kit will not effect the injectors.
another note to add is that the returnless cars tend to have a lean spike on initial hit. no big deal, this is kind of a norm for these cars. the ecu will make the changes when it detects the hit.
dry shot: ford's MAF has a 5v max and will limit on shot size a person can run with a spray thru set up. usually a 75 shot is about the max you can do on a spray thru depending on what kind of set up you are currently running. you can spray post MAF if you have a tuner that is competent enough to do it. in a dry system, the injectors are the scource of enrichment fuel. this requires the injector to be fully capable to supply the needed amount. your injector should be capable of delivering the fuel needed at 80% duty cycle to be safe. this general rule is for any set up wether its for n/a or power adder applications.
fuel system:
the stock fuel system is safe for a 100 shot. again; can you run more, yes. do i recommend it, NO. if you going to do something, do it right the first time so you dont kick yourself in the ass later.
"puddling issue":
this is caused by few reasons. spray to early, low bottle pressure, wrong jetting, nozzle placement, tuning, etc. this is a reason to have all the supporting mods. the larger amount you spray, the more you have to pay attention to whats going on. a small shot is a little more forgiving, just a little bit of wiggle room to play with.
brands:
as for brands, its all personal preference. all of the brands do well, there just small differences with whats in the kit and jetting. the jet charts are just a starting point. some cases some cars will make shot adverties, some more, most will make less. simple jet changes will cure this issue.
delivery method there are a 3 different ways to deliver the nitrous wether its wet or dry. these methods are nozzle, plate, or direct port. there are variations of plates and direct port kits, usually depends on manufacture.
a single nozzle set up is usually set up in the intake path on the inlet tube.
plates are sandwiched somewhere in the intake path post t/b or carb.
a direct port kit has a single nozzle (in most cases) per cylinder and is as close to the cylinder as possible. direct ports are the most evenly distributed delivery method as well since variations of runner length and etc is not a factor. the direct port kits is the most expensive out of the 3 as well.
for most cars, any method is sufficient up to 150 and a direct port is just over kill. single nozzle set ups are usually only rated up to the 175ish mark depending on nozzle type and size. plate kits usually able to run up to 250-300 depending on maufacture and plate type. direct port set ups are able to run just about anything you throw at them.
solenoids:
generally window switches are limited to about 2-3 amps of current they can supply. your large solenoids can use up to 19amps. in cases like this, relays are needed. the orfice size of the solenoids are what "rates" their capabilities. from personal experience, i tend to see that you large solenoids are generally more sensitive to bottle pressures as well. not a proven fact, just a small pattern that i personally seem to see.
compression and nitrous
you can generally run more compression with nitrous. there is still limits. you have to take into account of the cylinder pressure that you are going to be adding with the nitrous. you have to efficiently get all of it in and out. detonation, spark issues, fuel type, tune, are just a few factors that determine amount able to be spray'd.
stages of nitrous:
this refers to how many systems of nitrous is being used. there are plenty of reasons to stage nitrous. traction, air velocity, vehicle complonents strength, etc are just a few reason to run it. stages pour on at desired set points on top of each other. takes time and tuning of ecu, car, and driver to get the set up to where it needs to be.
bottle heater and bottle pressure: there are two common types of heater like i mentioned atop of this topic. a thermostatic controlled heater and a pressure controlled heater. a thermostatic controlled heater is set to heat at a certian temp, thus only controling the the heat the heater itself will put out. a pressure controlled heater will get hotter and is controlled on/off by the pressure that is shown at pressure unit. proper bottle pressure is approx 900-950psi or approx 85-89*f. most companies calculate jetting for 950psi. more pressure will be a little lean and less will tend to be a little rich. bottle pressure is critical to maintain so that every time you hit it the amount sprayed is consistant, proper fuel/n2o mixture is optimum, etc.
full set up:
nitrous is able to do good or bad depending on set up and user. fuel systems will need to supply the fuel, engine must be able to withstand amout spraying, drivetrain must be ablt to take the power, and driver must know how to drive safely with nitrous. airflow efficientcty is critical; the more you spray; the more critical overall set up is. placement of your solenoids, purge, bottle, etc is all up to you. there is not really a "best spot" to put things most of the time, just keep clear of things like heat scources and moving parts. i recommend keeping the nozzle between 2-8 inches of t/b. your bottle needs to be placed so that the pick up tube is at the lowest point and always is surrounded by nitrous.
there is more i want to add, but this took long enough. i can/might add on to it later, but enjoy.
first off
ITS CALLED NITROUS NOT NOS
now thats out of the way, we shall begin.
supporting mods:
a nitrous kit is just a kit, basic essentials to deliver nitrous. some safety devises to use are:
fpss (fuel pressure safety switch)- will shut off power to the nitrous system if fuel pressure drops below desired set point
window switch will activate and deactivate nitrous at desired rpm settings. there are some switches that will do gear lock out and some that will do dual stages as well.
purge this is used to remove air from the line so that you are spraying liquid nitrous at the time you hit it.
nitrous pressure gauge this will tell you what your bottle pressure is at. pressure needs to be 900psi+ to safely spray.
bottle heater bottle temp is critical to maintaining good bottle pressure. bottle pressure should be approx. 950psi range. there are 2 common types of bottle heaters available, thermostatically controlled and pressure controled.
afr switch this is a newer item on the market for nitrous cars. its works like a fpss. if the afr's go out of range, it will shut the nitrous off.
spark plugs go to a 1 step colder for up to a 150 shot. generally more than that then stp to a colder plug. if not sure, your tuner can tell you what they recommend. there is a spark plug list to use so you can get brand of choice. plug gap should be somewhere between .032-.038.
fuel rail adapter: aftermarket companies have picked up on the issue of fuel delivery on these cars. there are fuel blocks available that mounts to the rails under the frps to supply a point of access of fuel. this can be used for enrichment fuel supply, fuel pressure gauge, or whatever you may need.
wet vs dry
this is another topic i am tired of hearing about. is one safer than the other, NO. either system can be done safely if correct parts and steps are taken/used. either can be dangerous if not set up correctly. the wet is easier to set up and tune if not dyno tuning. a competent tuner can tune a dry set up easily.
whats the difference between the 2? the difference is method of enrichment fuel delivery. wet systems will add the enrichment fuel at the same point that the nitrous is delivered (ex nozzle, plate, etc). a dry system relies on the injector to supply the needed enrichment fuel.
tuning:
wet shot: these cars are set up and tuned just fine from the factory to run up to a 100 shot. can you run more, yes; do i recommend it, no. all of you guys worried about a "nitrous tune" for a 100 shot, it up to you if you want to spend the extra money for a dyno tune that will do nothing more than look at your afr's and total timing to make sure nothing was tweaked. others that are saying to pull timing, not needed at a 100 shot. if you want to feel that its safer, 1 degree is more than sufficient. the enrichment fuel is added at point of delvery with the nitrous, a wet kit will not effect the injectors.
another note to add is that the returnless cars tend to have a lean spike on initial hit. no big deal, this is kind of a norm for these cars. the ecu will make the changes when it detects the hit.
dry shot: ford's MAF has a 5v max and will limit on shot size a person can run with a spray thru set up. usually a 75 shot is about the max you can do on a spray thru depending on what kind of set up you are currently running. you can spray post MAF if you have a tuner that is competent enough to do it. in a dry system, the injectors are the scource of enrichment fuel. this requires the injector to be fully capable to supply the needed amount. your injector should be capable of delivering the fuel needed at 80% duty cycle to be safe. this general rule is for any set up wether its for n/a or power adder applications.
fuel system:
the stock fuel system is safe for a 100 shot. again; can you run more, yes. do i recommend it, NO. if you going to do something, do it right the first time so you dont kick yourself in the ass later.
"puddling issue":
this is caused by few reasons. spray to early, low bottle pressure, wrong jetting, nozzle placement, tuning, etc. this is a reason to have all the supporting mods. the larger amount you spray, the more you have to pay attention to whats going on. a small shot is a little more forgiving, just a little bit of wiggle room to play with.
brands:
as for brands, its all personal preference. all of the brands do well, there just small differences with whats in the kit and jetting. the jet charts are just a starting point. some cases some cars will make shot adverties, some more, most will make less. simple jet changes will cure this issue.
delivery method there are a 3 different ways to deliver the nitrous wether its wet or dry. these methods are nozzle, plate, or direct port. there are variations of plates and direct port kits, usually depends on manufacture.
a single nozzle set up is usually set up in the intake path on the inlet tube.
plates are sandwiched somewhere in the intake path post t/b or carb.
a direct port kit has a single nozzle (in most cases) per cylinder and is as close to the cylinder as possible. direct ports are the most evenly distributed delivery method as well since variations of runner length and etc is not a factor. the direct port kits is the most expensive out of the 3 as well.
for most cars, any method is sufficient up to 150 and a direct port is just over kill. single nozzle set ups are usually only rated up to the 175ish mark depending on nozzle type and size. plate kits usually able to run up to 250-300 depending on maufacture and plate type. direct port set ups are able to run just about anything you throw at them.
solenoids:
generally window switches are limited to about 2-3 amps of current they can supply. your large solenoids can use up to 19amps. in cases like this, relays are needed. the orfice size of the solenoids are what "rates" their capabilities. from personal experience, i tend to see that you large solenoids are generally more sensitive to bottle pressures as well. not a proven fact, just a small pattern that i personally seem to see.
compression and nitrous
you can generally run more compression with nitrous. there is still limits. you have to take into account of the cylinder pressure that you are going to be adding with the nitrous. you have to efficiently get all of it in and out. detonation, spark issues, fuel type, tune, are just a few factors that determine amount able to be spray'd.
stages of nitrous:
this refers to how many systems of nitrous is being used. there are plenty of reasons to stage nitrous. traction, air velocity, vehicle complonents strength, etc are just a few reason to run it. stages pour on at desired set points on top of each other. takes time and tuning of ecu, car, and driver to get the set up to where it needs to be.
bottle heater and bottle pressure: there are two common types of heater like i mentioned atop of this topic. a thermostatic controlled heater and a pressure controlled heater. a thermostatic controlled heater is set to heat at a certian temp, thus only controling the the heat the heater itself will put out. a pressure controlled heater will get hotter and is controlled on/off by the pressure that is shown at pressure unit. proper bottle pressure is approx 900-950psi or approx 85-89*f. most companies calculate jetting for 950psi. more pressure will be a little lean and less will tend to be a little rich. bottle pressure is critical to maintain so that every time you hit it the amount sprayed is consistant, proper fuel/n2o mixture is optimum, etc.
full set up:
nitrous is able to do good or bad depending on set up and user. fuel systems will need to supply the fuel, engine must be able to withstand amout spraying, drivetrain must be ablt to take the power, and driver must know how to drive safely with nitrous. airflow efficientcty is critical; the more you spray; the more critical overall set up is. placement of your solenoids, purge, bottle, etc is all up to you. there is not really a "best spot" to put things most of the time, just keep clear of things like heat scources and moving parts. i recommend keeping the nozzle between 2-8 inches of t/b. your bottle needs to be placed so that the pick up tube is at the lowest point and always is surrounded by nitrous.
there is more i want to add, but this took long enough. i can/might add on to it later, but enjoy.
