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Noob
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828 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I'm getting an adjustable panhard bar and LCA's. Is it really necesary to get a relocation bracket?? Also looking into UCA's.

I'm also getting a new eleanor style grill and black turn signals. Gonna be a pretty fun winter :)
 

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I love to skydive
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17,286 Posts
Get non adjustable lca's.

Are you ever going to lower your car?


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
 

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Noob
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828 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It's lowered now 1.5 in all around
 

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Registered
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339 Posts
Get the relocation brackets then, and an adjustable uca
 

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FBGM
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6,177 Posts
and your just now getting a panhard bar?
 

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Noob
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Discussion Starter #7
Yea I know, I'm a noob.. I didn't know I needed that til just yesterday lol.
 

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FBGM
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6,177 Posts
haha, well better late than never, I hope you have caster camber bolts and or plates.
 

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Noob
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828 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I have another noob question.. Do I really need caster camber bolts? Cuz it was only a 1.5" drop. The wheel looks completely straight and when I got it aligned, the toe, caster, and camber were perfect.
 

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FBGM
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6,177 Posts
yes, it would be a great help, when you align the front end. Same with the rear, when you lower the car you screw with the geometry of the suspension.
 

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Noob
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828 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Ok so I'm def buying that panhard bar then the caster camber bolts then LCA's with re-los and then adjustable UCA's.
 

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Registered
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Really only need the caster/camber if you want to do some road racing and adjust the caster and camber frequently. If it is fine now and not changing it all the time, don't worry about it.
 

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Bob The Mo'fukkin Builda!
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10,234 Posts
the relocation brackets are a requirement, but for the small amount that they cost the difference in traction is huge when you are lowered.
 

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FBGM
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Im surprised he hasnt had tire issues with that drop.
 

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Super Moderator
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I did everything all at once so I only had to tear into the suspension once. I can say at 1.5", you'll want the camber plates, adjustable panhard bar, non-adjustable lower control arms, and the relocation brackets. I still never went and got an adjustable UCA and I haven't had any issues. I don't think I'll swap the UCA unless the car goes into a shop for something like Cams, the UCA is a pain in the ass to get to and replace.
 

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Want Camels?
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Same as what they said, get relocation brackets, 1.5 drop def needs panhard, stand at the back on your car and look at your left rear wheel, its closer to the fender than the right rear wheel, the panhard will adjust the lateral geometry of your suspension.

at the moment your stock LCA are down with the axles. you need to keep them in the middle/horizontal for DD, drags racers tend to keep them down with the axles to get more push into rear wheels. The relocation brackets will help you deciding which hole/angle you want to place your LCA at.

Make sure you plan on having good geometry when fixing all those above, specially if you used adj LCA and UCA.
 

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I bought camber bolts and never put them in. I like the extra negative camber. I run about -1.75* on the left front and 2.125 on the right. It seems to help on initial turn in and I like it. There is a tire wear issue but I flip my front tires from side to side about every 6 months to extend the life of my tires but it still falls a bit short on mileage.
If your alignment is within spec I wouldn't worry about them.
 
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Noob
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Discussion Starter #19
Ok thanks for the help everyone! I did notice the rear wheels seeming a little asymetrical. So I'll try not to drive it much until I get the panhard bar and LCA and re-los. I haven't seen any strange tire wear or anything. Could just be the fact that I only put about 1500 miles on it in the last 5 months, since I bought it. But I will get the caster camber bolts or plates because I don't want any issues. I would've bought it all together but unfortunately I don't make very much money lol.
 
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