Modded Mustang Forums banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As many of you have seen in my TVS upgrade thread, I recently installed a TVS blower in place of my M90.

My car's internals are not forged, and therefore I was afraid to run the TVS as it comes out of the box. The "box" setup includes a 3" diameter blower snout pulley, as well as an "overdrive" (larger) crank harmonic balancer/damper. That setup makes 15 PSI.

I started looking at options to lower boost to a safer level. At the time, there were only a couple of options:

1) Add Steeda underdive pulleys (a 25% underdrive crank damper and an oversized water pump pulley to take up belt slack. Expected boost was 8-10 PSI (More on that later).

2) Keep the stock 3" blower snout pulley and keep the stock crank damper, and add a Ford V-10 water pump pulley (to take up belt slack). That setup is said to deliver 13PSI and 500-510 RWHP. JDM power currently offers tuning for this setup. The V-10 pulley is around $30.00.

I decided on option one initially. In my case, I also needed a shorter belt, so I added a Roush Eaton M90 ("Roushcharger") belt for a 2009/2010.

I got it all installed and tuned, and I was disappointed. The Steeda pulley setup only delivered 6-7 PSI with a peak at 8.39 PSI. RWHP was 433, torque was 388 (SAE uncorrected on a dynojet). Additionally, as NastyStang has demonstrated twice, the Steeda H2O pump pulleys are prone to failure when used with a supercharger. The Steeda underdrives had cost me $225 and the M90 belt had cost me $50 shipped from Roush...so a $275 investment.

I wanted more boost than what the Steeda setup was making, but I didn't want 13 PSI and 510 RWHP since I am not forged. Therefore, I knew I needed a custom snout pulley, so I contacted Carmen Goudy (AKA Redfire 427 on fnsweet) and we worked together to come up with a spec that would work without any grinding or modification to the stock alternator bracket.



You can see there is limited clearance between the stock 3" snout pulley and the alternator bracket, which has a raised rib molded into it. Additionally, clearance is not uniform around the periphery of the pulley; it is tightest near the top.

Paper mockups were made, micrometers were employed, PM's were exchanged, and Carmen fired up the CNC machine and delivered me some billety-bling.

Take heed of the pure moto-porn that emerged from the FedEx box. It is an impressive package - all parts are individually bubble-wrapped, instructions are clear and concise, and the parts are polished to a show-quality luster. Carmen even built a special "holding tool" to keep the pulley from turning during installation, which was very useful. I had Carmen add a billet 85MM idler, just in case I had belt tension issues, as the required belt length was unknown since I am the first one to run this diameter pulley.













The pulley size I asked Carmen to make was one that is the absolute maximum size that can be installed without grinding the alternator / FEAD bracket "raised rib". That size is 3.47" (88.14 mm) at the top of the pulley's V-ribs.

Expected boost was 8-10 PSI, with a spike in the 11 range at rev limiter. That assumption was based on the following matrix I developed:

Setup Damper/Snout/H20Pump Ratio PSI RWHP

FULL TVS TVS / TVS/GT 2.382:1 12-15 530-545
“JDM” GT / TVS/V10 2.208:1 10-13 490-510
Carmen’s 3.47 GT / 3.47”/GT 1.908:1 8-11 475-500
Steeda Steeda/TVS/Steeda 1.768:1 6-9 430-460

So...let the installation begin!

I needed two tools, both available as free rentals form my local autozone.

1) A large, 3 jaw puller

2) A power steering pulley "install / puller" tool

First, I pulled the plastic plug out of the stock TVS snout pulley ( I used a panel-popper from my car stereo days, but a screwdriver / pliers will suffice just fine):





Then, I wrapped 3 turns of electrical tape on the front and aft edges of the stock pulley, so as to not mar it during removal. I also added a short M8x1.25 bolt (that is the TVS blower shaft hole spec - bolt procured at Lowes hardware) to act as a stop for the pulley shaft and protect the opening:



Here is the 3-jaw puller doing its job. I removed the intercooler reservoir cap to provide more clearance; I placed painters tape over the opening to keep it clean:



I then mounted up Carmen's press-fit billet pulley mount adapter using a power steering pulley press, again rented from autozone. Note: Do NOT allow the press shaft bolt that screws into the blower shaft to bottom out...if the bolt snaps it will make removal difficult. This may take a second person to hold a wrench on the end of the press to keep the bolt from threading in too deep. The first Autozone press I used gave its life (the bolt snapped) so I had to pick up a second one to finish the job:



I don't recommend the Autozone tool, as it is of poor quality, but the bottom line is it worked. (When I returned it they didn't charge me for the damage and said they see them broken all the time). Perhaps O'Reilly or Advance Auto will have one of higher quality, or you can purchase a dedicated pulley swap kit from various vendors.



Once you have the press adapter installed, the 3.47" pulley itself literally bolts up the the adapter with six hex-key allen bolts. I added some blue Lok-Tite for good measure. Since I was removing the Steeda damper, I had also rented (again, free from Autozone) a harmonic damper puller tool...I removed the steeda underdrive pulley and re-installed my stock GT damper (I had removed the rust off of it with my wire wheel and moto tool and re-painted it two days prior). Here is the freshly painted GT damper and Carmen's 3.47" pulley installed:



Continued...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
continued...

I then employed my helper for final belt installation:





Note the 85MM billet idler below the 3.47 TVS pulley. It allows me to use the belt that came with the TVS blower with perfect tension:







So...what did it do?

Mwaaahaaaahaaaaaaa...





Aric Carrion at Injected Engineering of Kennesaw, GA doing his magic on the dyno:



First pull: 476 RWHP 435 torque at 17 degrees timing

Second pull: 505 RWHP 460 Torque with a few degrees more timing...

...then...A/F was made nice and fat for safety...timing was upped to 23 degrees...and we did one for fun...

Third pull: 512.94 RWHP 467.91 torque at 11-12 PSI (peak at limiter 12.73 PSI) at around 11:1 A/F...

All numbers SAE uncorrected:





Aric and I decided to make my daily driver / street tune around that initial 476 RWHP mark...he fine tuned my A/F's so they are very smooth...dropped my timing back to 17 degrees, and out the door I went. I hope to drive this car for a year or two without incident before I go forged and light the candle on that bad-boy TVS.

The car pulls like a locomotive now; I really notice the low-end grunt, and there is now some of that awesome blower whine, but it is very subtle...with my Mac Prochamber and Roush O/R exhaust (AKA Borla Stingers) the car sounds like an all-motor car for the most part unlike the M90 which went WHEEEEEEEEEEE.

The butt-dyno says it is a huge upgrade over both my original M90 blower as well as the TVS with the Steeda pulleys. (The M90 with 2.57" pulley and the TVS with Steeda pulleys felt about the same to me, despite the TVS making 40 more RWHP).

Carmen can not only make a 3.47 pulley, but he has smaller designs than the stock 3 incher for forged guys looking to make 18-20 PSI, and he has a larger design that he has developed that will require some minor FEAD bracket rib grinding, but will deliver slightly lower boost similar to the Steeda pulleys.

Anyway, I couldn't be happier.

You guys can reach Carmen here:

[email protected]

...or he is on the fnsweet forum...username redfire427

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
22,435 Posts
Nice numbers, write up and pictures! Now we both are running custom pulley set-ups!! I told you the VMP Pulley Removal Tool was the **** though. Now it'll be nice having the hub so if you ever want to swap it out, it'll be real quick. I'm glad to see you didn't leave it at 23 degrees of timing, it would of been a death wish .. LOL

PS: Now you need to get all new polished pulleys !!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice numbers, write up and pictures! Now we both are running custom pulley set-ups!! I told you the VMP Pulley Removal Tool was the **** though. Now it'll be nice having the hub so if you ever want to swap it out, it'll be real quick. I'm glad to see you didn't leave it at 23 degrees of timing, it would of been a death wish .. LOL

PS: Now you need to get all new polished pulleys !!
I will be doing that eventually...Carmen sells full sets...and they are bling-tastic! :eek:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nice write up and numbers!

























should have left it at 512rwhp :lol
Don't think for one second that I didn't want to. I am just skeert it will blow up!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,051 Posts
Great numbers, glad that you have the set up you want now without having to worry about breaking pulleys lol.

<--blower envy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,102 Posts
Congrats on the new set-up. As Nasty said nice pics and write up
 

·
Genibus Nitito Canus
Joined
·
2,947 Posts
so which crank/water pulley are u running then?
 

·
Genibus Nitito Canus
Joined
·
2,947 Posts
wow, didnt even notice that, *facepalm*
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
DiMora is using the stock Ford crank pulley.

Carmen
Yep...what Carmen said. And Carmen ^ is the one who made my awesome pulley and idler. Thanks again, Carmen.

The car now has long-tube headers, Magnaflow high-flow cats, Mac Prochamber, and Borla Stingers (Roush off-roads) and is making 492 RWHP SAE at only 9 PSI (Dynojet). I have had the TVS on over a year now...the car just hit 24,000 miles (daily driver) and I've had zero issues.

I think this TVS with Carmen's 3.47" pulley on a non-forged engine is a perfect, safe, awesome combo as long as you have a GOOD TUNE. :yes

Latest dyno...blue is with the longtubes, red is before; both on my daily driver tunes:

 

·
Bob The Mo'fukkin Builda!
Joined
·
10,234 Posts
hey dimora,

what was your fuel pump duty cycle with the bap and did you wire it to the boost switch or to be full on.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,163 Posts
i have about 8 months before i get enough money to do the m90 setup...im excited :D if you dont mind me asking...when all said and done how much money have you put into it????
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
hey dimora,

what was your fuel pump duty cycle with the bap and did you wire it to the boost switch or to be full on.
I can't recall the exact % but my tuner said I have plenty of headroom left, and I have it wired to stay on all the time (not using the boost switch; the leads are soldered together and heat shrunk).
 

·
Bob The Mo'fukkin Builda!
Joined
·
10,234 Posts
that's what i did also. hopefully i'll find the issue with my tb and get tuned (succesfully) next tues.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
138 Posts
Looks great & nice write up!!! Carmen does some awesome work, he made my polished 8-rib water pump pulley & alter pulley with engraved cover.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top