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Discussion Starter #1
i have an old nitrous setup sitting around, and with a 12-13 year old intake manifold on the car i dont wanna hit a 100 shot and pop the thing wide open. here my idea:
1. i wanna buy a plate for the stock style intake, and run the nitrous to it only. capping off the fuel side. effectively making a dry shot after the maf
2. step two is find an adequite injector to keep up with any shot up to a 150 nitrous pill.
3. final thing to do is get a handheld or something(open to ideas here) and get three tunes. 1 street 2 N/A 3 nitrous. all on a dyno of course.

Sounds like a safe setup as long as the tune is correct, right? question is what size injector is good, and should i buy a fuel pump? i was leaning towards the stryker division x
 

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I thought to run a dry shot you have to add the nitrous before the Mass air meter so the ECM know to add more fuel? I ran a wet shot on my car for 9yrs and never had a problem with it. I even ran a 125shot. With stock inj and fuel pump.
 

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Danger To Manifold!!!!
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I thought to run a dry shot you have to add the nitrous before the Mass air meter so the ECM know to add more fuel? I ran a wet shot on my car for 9yrs and never had a problem with it. I even ran a 125shot. With stock inj and fuel pump.
+1 I believe this is the case for dry shots. Why not just run a wet plate? I'm running a 100 shot right now with a fogger and have no problems. Actually I was running a 125 but I need a bigger fuel jet to prevent a lean spike.


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Head Unicorn
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1. Dry sucks and is a recipe for disaster.

2. Dry requires spraying the nitrous into the MAF to fool the ECM into thinking ambient air is -128 degrees thus adding more fuel via the injectors, spraying after the MAF (as is your idea) will result in no fuel enrichment).

3. Nitrous is not going to "pop" the intake. Backfires from valve float and/or improper jetting issues cause issues.

4. The bigger injectors and tunes will cost more money than a simple, effective wet kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
1. Dry sucks and is a recipe for disaster.

2. Dry requires spraying the nitrous into the MAF to fool the ECM into thinking ambient air is -128 degrees thus adding more fuel via the injectors, spraying after the MAF (as is your idea) will result in no fuel enrichment).

3. Nitrous is not going to "pop" the intake. Backfires from valve float and/or improper jetting issues cause issues.

4. The bigger injectors and tunes will cost more money than a simple, effective wet kit.
im not trusting the old solenoids to do their jobs so i was hoping to rely on the nitrous solenoid and the most reliable part of a car. the ecu to run a tune that always adds fuel at a given rpm. using a something like a zex programmable tps switch AND a window switch i feel that a tuner could add the fuel quite accurately in the ecu to match the nitrous shot. if it was done this way it could bypass the maf. at least thats my imagination of the cars working. this is why having 3 tunes available would be very useful. and if i buy injectors that always leave room for a tuner blower or turbo kit some day so that cost is justified. and a tune is always recommended for a shot of nitrous, is it not?
 

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Head Unicorn
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im not trusting the old solenoids to do their jobs so i was hoping to rely on the nitrous solenoid and the most reliable part of a car. the ecu to run a tune that always adds fuel at a given rpm. using a something like a zex programmable tps switch AND a window switch i feel that a tuner could add the fuel quite accurately in the ecu to match the nitrous shot. if it was done this way it could bypass the maf. at least thats my imagination of the cars working. this is why having 3 tunes available would be very useful. and if i buy injectors that always leave room for a tuner blower or turbo kit some day so that cost is justified. and a tune is always recommended for a shot of nitrous, is it not?
I'm not telling you to trust old solenoids.... buy new ones if you choose to. The ECU can't always add enough fuel or the car won't run. You can't simply switch to a nitrous tune that's pouring fuel in at the moment you activate the nitrous solenoid. No fuel is needed unless nitrous if flowing. Nitrous isn't flowing until the system is activated..... there is no way to trigger the ECU to suddenly dump fuel as the nitrous is activated. Call a tuner and let him tell you what i've already told you.

You're planning a recipe for disaster. Make sure you have enough money for a new motor if you attempt your plan.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm not telling you to trust old solenoids.... buy new ones if you choose to. The ECU can't always add enough fuel or the car won't run. You can't simply switch to a nitrous tune that's pouring fuel in at the moment you activate the nitrous solenoid. No fuel is needed unless nitrous if flowing. Nitrous isn't flowing until the system is activated..... there is no way to trigger the ECU to suddenly dump fuel as the nitrous is activated. Call a tuner and let him tell you what i've already told you.

You're planning a recipe for disaster. Make sure you have enough money for a new motor if you attempt your plan.
the reason i felt it was possible is because of the electronic nitrous and engine controls we have to work with. a nitrous controller will make sure the nitrous fires only at wot at a given rpm window correct? given this info, a tps should be able to tell the computer when a wot tps reading is available. how specific can tuning get? i guess im asking how accurate can the nitrous be for wot and can it be close enough to tune more fuel (at wot only) at that given rpm. i feel like it is more than possible to do with some attention to the tps readings, which would be the main indicator for the nitrous controller and the ecu. i understand its not the normal setup, but with datalogging and such, it should be easy. in theory of course. and please understand im toying with some ideas. i never said im only going to do this. im not trying to piss you off bulloch i appreciate your thoughts. just trying to make sure you understand how i got the idea for this setup
 

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Head Unicorn
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I assure you that you aren't pissing me off, I come off as an asshole mostly because I am. Not gonna work. Even if you find a tuner willing to attempt this (which you won't) the timing won't happen and you're going to grenade the motor. You're over thinking nitrous. I've been using nitrous for 20 years.... don't make it harder than it is. Nitrous is an oxidizer... that's it. Nitrous isn't a power adder, it's a way to burn more fuel. Buy a simple wet kit with a window switch and have fun. You're not going to make this work, certainly not with a Ford EEC. You can piece a nice nitrous kit together for under a grand.... I have about two and a half in mine and it's overkill because it's part of a long term plan. You haven't struck gold with your idea.... you're attempting to use nitrous in a way that's going to obliterate most of the pistons in your motor. IF you find a tuner willing to try this (you won't) your motor won't last past the first pull.
 
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