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Discussion Starter #1
i am currently saving for a blower, but i have been looking around at some nitrous options as they are much cheaper for even a high end setup. so my question to you guys is what is the limit on the stock bottom end for the shot you can run? how many of you guys are running it and what company did you go with?
 

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500 rwhp. I wouldn't push it past that. Running nitrous you're going to have to back off the timing anyways so you should be good up to that point. If you have a crappy tune you could blow it up at 400 rwhp though. It all depends.
 

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The fuel system will be limited before the motor, 125 is about all the stock fuel system can handle before you start running into issues. As for bottom end limitations, its all in the tune really, theres been a few guys running 200 shots on stock bottom end with no issues and then theres guys that blew up on a 75 shot. I ran a 100 shot for a long time on stock plugs and no tune with zero problems. When i bumped up to 125 i upgraded to autolite 1 step colder plugs and had a reputable local tuner help me tune the car.

---------- Post added at 11:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:26 PM ----------

Also steer clear of ZEX, its very eye appealing and they try to sell it as advanced and safe for beginners but its a lie. Their jets are underrated (flywheel horsepower), their solenoids are pitiful and proned to sticking under excessive use, and the NMU box is a lie, theres absolutely not a single piece of monitoring equipment in that box, simply a power wire, ground wire, and tps signal wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thank you chriss that was some good information! i am still trying to come to a final solution i like the idea of nitrous because its cheaper and it provides more instant torque which could be good or bad lol. but if i were to wait for a blower the power would always be there and i wouldnt have to refill any bottles.
 

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Ntirous has it's place in builds. All depends on what you want. 3 of my last 4 cars have been some kind of forced induction and the 4th and latest edition will have a two stages of nitrous. Difference being in that the nitrous car will have plenty of power for the street and only need the extra boost in power when racing at the track. If it were going to be more of a daily I probably would go with a blower or turbo. Anyways, you have to decide whether or not your happy driving a 300 hp car around on the street or if you want that power available through your right foot all of the time. How you drive might play a factor into the decision making too. If you drive like a maniac maybe it's better to limit your street power. I know that it takes great restraint to drive a 500-600 hp car on the street without getting in trouble but I'm old and done it all before. I had one really really really fast daily when I was a kid. I got pulled over 34 times in two years because I was a stupid ****. I daily my Mustang right now and it has plenty of power to square off every turn with the slightest blip of the throttle. And don't get me wrong I still get a certain rush when pitching the back end out (I think you kids call it twerking or drifting or something like that) and gathering it back in again, but it doesn't happen as often as it used to. If you are prone to these kind of impulses I might think that nitrous would be a wiser choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i never thought about it that way boss. but i do think i like the idea of having more power on the streets. the car is not a daily and i dont really beat on the thing. it just seams like all of my friends are getting quicker cars and i wanted a little something to keep up and the nitrous could be here soon the blower not as much lol.
 

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i never thought about it that way boss. but i do think i like the idea of having more power on the streets. the car is not a daily and i dont really beat on the thing. it just seams like all of my friends are getting quicker cars and i wanted a little something to keep up and the nitrous could be here soon the blower not as much lol.
Well I think that answers it for me. Patience my young Padawon, you will be happier in the end. It took my 4 years to save up for my blower but it was well worth it.
 

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I like my nitrous. Get a wideband. I went nitrous because Of money. I don't spray a lot (mainly at the track). I have maybe $1k in my setup which includes bottle refills. It's hard to beat the price and it's nice to know its there when I need it. I went Zex. It's not as bad as people say but I wish I would have with the NX plate kit (my car is a 2V).
 

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Not good :)...street tires and full weight. My best is 13.3 at 109. I literally just bought some Hoosier QTPs so I should be in the 12s now without any issues.

I'm running a smaller fuel jet than what Zex calls for. The jet they called for put me in 9:1 AFR. I went down from a 34 to a 30 jet and now hover around 11:1 (could go leaner probably). A Wideband is a must with nitrous in my opinion.
 

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I have been toying around with nitrous last few years. I have a zex kit and messing around with a real controller. I only use the juice at the track with drag radials running all out 1/4 mile but the track is 90+ miles away so some days I will find a back road and do some test and tunes there. I am running 12.2 with a 100 shot so I think it is about right to call it a 75 shot. With the stall and the tps I was having a hard time getting off the line and the top end I was nosing over. I had no means to know for certain what was causing all my problems. Last month I got sideways in the 60' and almost tagged the center rail. Everyone was bitching about the prep and bailing out and putting their cars back on the trailers. Last time I went I tried to rollout na and thumb switch the hit but I was so inconsistent it was my worst night ever at the track. I have installed a Innovate PSN-1. Has a wideband/bottle pressure/window switch controller. Data logging with it and my sct is a snap and setting the rpm. I installed a upgraded fuel pump that can handle the demand I have set as a goal. I have yet made it back to the track for a real test but will be there next week. If I get this thing set up right and be able to jet it up I hope to sit in the 11.6 range safely.
Zex kit
Fuel pump to handle 500+ hp
HT-0 gapped .032
Wideband/window switch/bottle pressure shutdown
Tune for the hit.

Remember never to just trust a tune or any device, pull the plugs and look them over and make sure. If you need more fuel at WOT get it in there.

Work from a conservative position and then move up.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
some good info darwin and some pretty good times. have you considered a progressive controller? i was also looking at the Innovate PSN-1 if i was going to do nitrous was it hard to wire in?
 

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A progressive controller would be nice to have at the track. I don't race it enough to justify the cost.

I think my car has 12.7s in it with a proper 60ft. Not too bad for a humble 2V in a 3700lb car.
 

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some good info darwin and some pretty good times. have you considered a progressive controller? i was also looking at the Innovate PSN-1 if i was going to do nitrous was it hard to wire in?
The controller comes quite ez to install depending on your desire for set up.
Bottle, O2 sensors and also the relay is direct plug in to the unit.
The Tach signal I pulled from the neg lead from a fuel injector.
I have the supplied relay connected to the TPS lead to the Zex box.
I installed the unit in the air vent left side of driver.
I set up everything to meet the growing build for N2O support.
The Power I bring in direct from the battery with a 30A fuse and goes to a ATC ATO fuse holder. Carchet 6 way with LED so each system has it's own inline fuse.
I pulled power from the IGN switch to a relay I bought at Radio Shack to the Carchet.
Every component is fed from it and switched from a plate I made to fit in the cup holder.
Labeled and soldered wires to quick disconnects inside center console coming up into cup holder. I can take out the cup holder plate if I want to and leave it in the compartment and put the rubber plug back in the back cup holder and you would never know. The PSN-1 stays powered up. without the switch plate.
The Line lock, Bottle opener, heater and Zex with Purge are all fed from the switch plate.
On the plate I have the 4 switches with leds and 2 momentary push buttons with no leds which I am going to install in a place where I can see them without looking down but that will be later.

The controller you can select your RPM window and with the auto the bottom rpm I use to hit in 1st is lower than the rpm I start out in after each gear so a progressive controller I feel is not needed. Car shifts @ 6500 and rpms drop to the next gear is above 4k. Before the PSN-1 the juice was on as long as I was WOT. With the PSN-1 if any thing goes outside my settings the Relay cuts off the voltage to the ZEX TPS lead and shuts the command to the solenoids off.

A progressive controller would be nice to have at the track. I don't race it enough to justify the cost.

I think my car has 12.7s in it with a proper 60ft. Not too bad for a humble 2V in a 3700lb car.
I have been racing for many years with different cars since the 80's and for this car I chose to try different combos, NA with street tires, NA Drag Radial, Cams, Manifolds and this and that. Over the 10 years I found that this car performs well and I decided to protect it better than the other cars I trashed and that thought alone is what justified the cost of this unit. I was going to buy separate units and the cost was going to be more than I had wanted to pay but this came out last year so I already had saved enough for it. I plan on beating this car "Full Weight, spare included with 3/4 tank of fuel" for many more years.

I might do a write up on the install and results before the end of the year for those that want to read it. Just too busy right now but I did take pictures.
 
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