If you've got dual FPDMs I would go through your wiring very closely. You can have issues if a connection is a little loose.I had fuel at the fuel rail not sure about how much pressure because their aftermarket rails and doesn't have a petcock on them. The fuel system is dual GT pumps in a fore hat with dual FPDMs. I think it has fuel though because I tried spraying starter fluid in the intake and it still didn't want to start. I had a remote tune done. Maybe tune I'm guessing but Im at a lose...
Keep in mind it controls the pumps by having 12V at all times and grounding it to work.I tested the volts at the pumps its just under 12v when the key is turn to the on position. I found a fuel pressure gauge and if i turn the key back and forth to prime it the pressure will go up to 30 or 40 psi, but as soon as I try to start it the pressure falls flat...Is this normal?
I would look closely at the dual FPDM wiring diagrams and your wiring. (Maybe one pump is wired backwards?) The power wire to the pump should read +12V at key on and crank. The FPDM commands the pump on by closing the other side of the pump to ground.I bought a wiring harness off a guy on SVTperformance.com that was pretty much plug and play. I just had to run a power wire from the relay to the battery and the power and ground to each pump. Is it possible that its in the tune? I'm defiantly not getting a spike in fuel pressure when trying to start it, but my pumps are kicking on and pumping gas. The power wire to the pumps is ready 11.7 or so. Should I see what the voltage on the power wire does through cranking?
As long as the wire uses for the ground/power is a large enough wire (small enough gauge) going two into one should be fine, assuming the ground location and power source are reliable as well.Ok I will check the wiring when I get off work. No PPRV. It will only go to about 10 psi on one key turn I have to turn in on and off about three times for it to build up to 40 then it immediately bleeds out. It does not go up on crank.
What do you mean by without the jumper harness? Just hook it up like stock with 1 FPDM?
Does it matter that my harness only has one relay? and also that it feeds both power wires from the pumps into on power wire on the Harness. Same with the ground, both grounds go to on wire on the harness.
I also cleared the codes reloaded the tune and now I get a p1000 and the P1237 this time, which is a Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Fault.
You have much to learn, young grasshoppa. This is a minor speedbump.I've been working on this car for about 8 months and was very excited to get it back to together then this happens so this has been a disappointing weekend to say the least.
This is a fuel pump secondary ckt malfunction. Have you recently done anything to your fuel pumps?Is this code a hard fault or a continuos memory code? Your vehicle is a returnless system with a fuel pump delivery module which is mounted in the left side package tray area in the trunk.This module controls your fuel pump,it actually duty cycles the pump to maintain the pressure requested by PCM.This code is set when the FPDM detects a fuel pump secondary ckt fault then it will send a message to the PCM thru the FPM ckt indicating a failure has ocurred.The FPDM will then duty cycle the fuel pump to 75%(750 msec ON, 250 msec OFF) as long as the problem is present.Once the problem is no longer present the FPDM will return the duty cycle to 50% and the P1237 code will then be set to continuous memory. Possible causes are : Open or shorted FP PWR circuit
Open FP RTN circuit to FPDM
Open or shorted circuit in the fuel pump
Locked fuel pump rotor
That seems somewhat reasonable, considering it's usually tough to get a good read on something, especially an AC signal on a DVM.Alright I ran home during lunch and verified that the cam sensor is in. I also got my spark tester in the mail and tested the spark which I test three of them and no spark so I'm wondering if my Crank sensor or that wheel is messed up. I tested .3-.4 AC volts on the crank sensor which is a little low but I wouldn't think that means its fried.
Does anyone know if I can remove that sensor without removing the AC? If I can remove the sensor I should be able to look inside to see if the wheel is there.