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Discussion Starter #1


Gist of what happened, went to a detailer just to talk about some detailing and a line of products, hes a local dealer--adamspolishes

Started talking about cleaning engine bays, I brought up mine, he said that he'd do it for free, so I said sure, he was about to spray the engine bay and i said shouldn't you cover the coil pack and alternator atleast, he said no i've done this hundreds of times, i do it to all of my ford fleet everytime I oil change, i said.. alright, youre the professional.

Afterward I go to start it starts rough etc went to leave, car was super rough, cel comes on, misfires, cant break 1k rpms, car spits and sputters, basic gist

Bottom line, received the parts from him today, coil pack installation easy? isn't it just pop off, pop in, 3 screws?
 

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Yep its all very easy.

Just make sure not to cross the wires.
 
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Remember to pay attention when you're changing the plugs/wires on the drivers side. Front to back, cylinder numbers are 4 - 5 - 6. Left to right, coil pack order is 4 - 6 - 5.
 

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yeah I remember messing that up looking fas i thought it went 4-5-6 on the coil than couldnt figure out why it was misfiring read it again and saw my mistake not sure why they couldnt have just made it go in order instead of switching those two
 
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get off the forum and do it!
 

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anything else I should know before installing these, ive never changed plugs, wires, or a coil pack before.
Torque spec for the plugs is 7 to 14ft/lbs. In case you're wondering, that's not very much. If you don't have a torque wrench, it's pretty easy to estimate. I just screw the plugs in until they start to give me some resistance (you might be able to get that far using just your hand). Then I keep going until I actually have to put a little muscle into it. At that point I give them a little nudge and call them good (they should be nice and snug). Don't over tighten them unless you enjoy having to rethread the heads.

You might want to have some zip ties handy to keep the wires looking nice and tidy. I personally broke all of the factory clips that held the wires in place. The one on the back of the engine is a pain in the ass.

You're going to need to remove your air intake. Get ready to bend your arm in some awkward angles to get down in there. And you're going to despise your EGR after this. That's about all the advice I can give you man ;)
 

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torquing the spark plugs:lmao
 

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for the sparkplugs I would do the drivers side rear one first. Its harder to get to, but all the other ones are easy.
 

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El Torchy
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I need to do this as well... I just don't freakin' know how! I'm sorry but I'm too dumb when it comes to the engine... What's with the 123,456? Lol Dumb right?!?! :(

How about brands and kinds of spark plugs... Wires...?

I even heard about "gapping" of the spark plugs...

HELP...
 

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I need to do this as well... I just don't freakin' know how! I'm sorry but I'm too dumb when it comes to the engine... What's with the 123,456? Lol Dumb right?!?! :(

How about brands and kinds of spark plugs... Wires...?

I even heard about "gapping" of the spark plugs...

HELP...
Got with Motorcraft or Autolite copper plugs and Motorcraft wires. Gapping is pretty simple. You can pick up a gapping tool that looks like a coin for like $1 at most auto parts stores (it's not the greatest way to do it but it's cheap and it works). When you look at the new spark plugs, the gapping tool will go between the electrode and the prong hanging over it. You want the gap between the two to read .052". Sometimes you get lucky and the plugs are already gapped at the right distance. If not, use some needle nose pliers to (gently but firmly) bend the prong until you get the gap right. If you need help with the install, have a look here: How To Change Your Spark Plugs
 

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El Torchy
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Got with Motorcraft or Autolite copper plugs and Motorcraft wires. Gapping is pretty simple. You can pick up a gapping tool that looks like a coin for like $1 at most auto parts stores (it's not the greatest way to do it but it's cheap and it works). When you look at the new spark plugs, the gapping tool will go between the electrode and the prong hanging over it. You want the gap between the two to read .052". Sometimes you get lucky and the plugs are already gapped at the right distance. If not, use some needle nose pliers to (gently but firmly) bend the prong until you get the gap right. If you need help with the install, have a look here: How To Change Your Spark Plugs
Thanks bro. I'll look into doing this once I find the extra time... My schedule at work sucks so bad, it's not really giving me the time to do anything a little more serious on the car...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
in the article it said for them to read .54, also isnt there a range they can be in? also should i just estimate with how tight, or use a torque wrench

what are the orders of the sparkplugs on the engine

X <---
Y
thats the front of the car (the arrow)
and you're the X
or you could be Y lol
whats the order of the plugs
 

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front of the engine, passenger side is plug number (1)
front of the engine, driver side is plug (4)

Just don't tighten them too tight and you'll be fine.
 
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