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Cone Killer
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928 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have any experience with aftermarket pans? Which pan would you recommend?

The pan needs to be compatible with the 3.750" stroker rotating assembly, and I'd like to have no fitment issues with the stock k-member, unless I really just need to put in a tubular one in to make things work. I'd like baffling for road racing/auto x and an increased oil capacity.

The convertibles also have an additional crossmember bolted to the k-member so please let me know if you know the pan will/will not work with that crossmember.

Any other issues with aftermarket pans like dipstick fitment, header clearance, etc. I need to be concerned with?

Any help/advice would be greatly appreicated.
 

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Abyssinian of AX
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7,994 Posts
I run a Canton 8 qt. steel pan re-enforced on the underside :yes

It is VERY beat up due to the aftermarket "K" that leaves it completely exposed and slightly over 2" of clearance under my ride. I changed the oil this weekend and the bolt, screws in from the back-side of pan right near the bottom, has two of the sides drastically worn down due to bottoming out. The six-sided bolt is now only 5 sides and two of the sides are much longer than they are supposed to be :p
 

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Registered
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3,112 Posts
keep the stocker...man canton leaks thru the studs..and i have 2 gaskets in it..windage try and oil pan..

and its beat up also lol since its so low
 

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Abyssinian of AX
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7,994 Posts
^ maybe it leaks BECAUSE you have two gaskets :dunno

I have not had any trouble with mine and VERY happy I had the steel plate welded onto the bottom. I am considering having a replacement heavier one welded in its place. It is about 1/16" thick and completely trashed due to severe clearance issues my car has. An aftermarket "K" leaves the OEM oil pan completely exposed and is just aluminum.

cb... if you are building a new motor, I HIGHLY recommend a proper aftermarket "K" during this time. Doing so, all but requires a replacement pan that is stronger than the OEM one, because of the vulnerability of it. Might as well get a higher capacity one and also of the type that suits your needs. Some stop oil from moving back in the pan under launch, while others, like mine, stop oil from moving laterally due to the 8G turns I often take :shiftyeyes
 

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Cone Killer
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928 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I'm set on an aftermarket, baffled, high capacity pan...I was curious to see what people thought with respect to Moroso vs. Canton vs. Milodon etc...

Jazzer, I REALLY want to do a k-member swap also. This motor is just draining me on funds as it is though. Should I just bite the bullet and swap the k when I swap the motor, or is it that much harder to do the swap with the motor in the car later?

8G turns...amazing...you car can hang with fighter jets. haha
 

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Abyssinian of AX
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7,994 Posts


This was actually my car, prior to installing the Saleen body kit :yes

I certainly DO recommend you bite the bullet and install a new "K" while the motor is out. It is 1000 times easier and can really open up the area for you to get it installed. Just be sure to get a "K" that matches your needs, either drag or open-track/AX strength and the specific type of oil pan for the same reasons. The baffles can be side to side or front to back.

Jazzer :)
 
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