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Ok, I did my PTV clearance... I used a new 9333-PT1 head gasket and ARP head bolt and torqued to 50, 60, and final 70 ft lb.

I turned the motor until each valve went up and down (3) times.... I tacked/weled the tops of 2 old roller lifters... and tightened down the RR until the push rods wouldn't turn freely...

If I did this right then I have plenty of clearance... intake i'm about 0.332 and exhaust 0.235....

on a side note... I did a check on the HD before and after... and I'm still in the .05x range... it didn't really compress much... (if at all) the specs I believe say compress is .047"


so if this all looks right... next I can bolt both heads on for good... then put my new roller lifters in... and then see if the stock push rods length is fine... if so, then all order new stock ones...
 

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I've never liked that head gasket. It works for 90% of the engines out there though. Quench in the .05x range will be okay. It's factory kind of tolerance which, while being subpar, will be fine.

Minimum PTV clearance is .100" so you're good to go on both.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I've never liked that head gasket. It works for 90% of the engines out there though. Quench in the .05x range will be okay. It's factory kind of tolerance which, while being subpar, will be fine.

Minimum PTV clearance is .100" so you're good to go on both.
Well it will be higher then that... here's the tread awhile back where you talked about the Quench (which blew my mind http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/5-0-mustangs/610514-ok-need-some-more-advise.html ) then I was in the .02x range (in the hole)... wll if these gaskets aren't compressioning to .047 like the spec say (you measure the fire ring area right?) then I'm really screwed... I'm over .70 then

well I went out and checked the piston the deck height again since now I have a dial indicator... so I could make sure piston was all the way up... well the digital calibers where all over... plus what if that part on the bottom is off a little... a few times I got .008 at the top of the piston... so I decided to use a flat edge, I pushed on the bottom of piston to rock the top of piston up (I wasn't able to put constant pressure since I was by myself) but now if I put the straight edge across the top, I couldn't get the .010 feeler gauge under... the .009 went under with some drag... of course I if push the top and check the bottom I think it was .016 on the digital caliber... but for this you have to take the lowest one right? which I'm getting at the top of the piston...


So, now I'm thinking I should order the 1101-2 gaskets, they have the copper ring and (pre-flattened copper ring) compressed to .039 (at least that's what the specs say) looks like this are the Ford racing M-6051-A302 gaskets ( I did the online chat FFRP and asked if they were the 1101-1 or 1101-2, and he said the 1101-2, but the specs I'm finding say they are .042")....man I wish I know about this quench stuff before I took the motor to get bored.... I just hope this gaskets seal good... seen some neg post on the 1011-x gaskets...
strange thing, if I look up 90 mustang on advanceautoparts the 1011-2 is what they list, but if I go to fel-pro site... there showing the 8548pt2 and the 9333... which both are .047... also on Jegs site (don't know if it's listed wrong, but it's the only time I seen them talk about "Loc Wire" which require head machining.. http://www.jegs.com/i/Fel-Pro/375/1011-2/10002/-1

hit up the fel-pro tech line (garage guru's) and he sugguest the 1101-1 since the steel fire ring would hold up better (iron to iron) he said the spec's for it was .041 (every place else says .042 when i look it up). I asked him to confirm if the M-6051-A302 was the -1 or -2 (FFRP said -2 but the specs on it say 0.042 which would be the -1) but he wan't able to tell from his end without getting someone else...

So, I'm thinking the M-6051-A302 would be the ones to get (can get those a few dollars cheaper as a set, then buying the 1101-1's single...) and the discription says for Iron or alum heads...

UPDATE: so, I'm tired of looking at these things... lol I just ordered the M-6051-A302 set (which should be the 1101-1).

another thing... I just noticed the 9333's I have said to to torque the top bolts to 80 and the bottoms to 70 lb's??? the ARP bolts says 70 ft lb's... which should I go buy?

So If I do that how screwed will I be? am I going to have to run 91?
 

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I like to run MLS gaskets at .027-.030" thickness with the piston .005-.010" in the hole. I remember discussing quench distance with you in that thread.

For the torque specs on the bolts, go by ARP's recommendation.

You should be able to run 87. That cam will bleed off a decent bit of pressure. The tighter the quench distance, the less detonation prone the engine will be, despite having higher compression. This is why you can't base octane tolerance on compression numbers alone. Compression is just a part of the equation. My MX-5 has 11.1 compression and runs on 87, just a case in point.

As for checking the piston distance in the hole, you have to bring it to TDC and then rock the piston in the bore. I measure at top, middle, and bottom while rocking it to find the highest point. The highest point will be your deck clearance. (not including a dome if the piston has one... which yours don't) It's highly likely that the pistons aren't all at exact tolerances and may vary .001-.002" in the hole between them. I base the minimum quench distance off the highest point of the highest piston.

Are the heads and block freshly machined flat? If so, I'd spend the extra money and put the thinnest MLS gaskets you can find on it. That's just me though. If that's not in the budget, the gaskets you have will suffice. You'll just leave a little power and knock resistance on the table. It'll run okay either way. There's acceptable and then there's ideal. Your compression is low enough and cam big enough that you probably won't be building enough cylinder pressure to make detonation a major issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I like to run MLS gaskets at .027-.030" thickness with the piston .005-.010" in the hole. I remember discussing quench distance with you in that thread.

For the torque specs on the bolts, go by ARP's recommendation.

You should be able to run 87. That cam will bleed off a decent bit of pressure. The tighter the quench distance, the less detonation prone the engine will be, despite having higher compression. This is why you can't base octane tolerance on compression numbers alone. Compression is just a part of the equation. My MX-5 has 11.1 compression and runs on 87, just a case in point.

As for checking the piston distance in the hole, you have to bring it to TDC and then rock the piston in the bore. I measure at top, middle, and bottom while rocking it to find the highest point. The highest point will be your deck clearance. (not including a dome if the piston has one... which yours don't) It's highly likely that the pistons aren't all at exact tolerances and may vary .001-.002" in the hole between them. I base the minimum quench distance off the highest point of the highest piston.

Are the heads and block freshly machined flat? If so, I'd spend the extra money and put the thinnest MLS gaskets you can find on it. That's just me though. If that's not in the budget, the gaskets you have will suffice. You'll just leave a little power and knock resistance on the table. It'll run okay either way. There's acceptable and then there's ideal. Your compression is low enough and cam big enough that you probably won't be building enough cylinder pressure to make detonation a major issue.
so, since I got .009 with a feeler guage on the top, that's the lowest # I can get...so that's what I go by? (well that's better then I thought orginally)


The heads I got from LMR, there re-man GT40P's... the surface looks like it was cut (pic posted in that prevoius thread) but no on the block, when they rebuilt my motor, they said the deck was fine and they didn't need to cut it... so the MLS gaskets are out... :crying:

so the M-6051-A301 gaskets will have to do.... there on the way... but I found another post someone said they were 1101-2... lol.... so it's either the 1101-1 or 1101-2 that are showing up.... If they are the 1101-2 (which I would rather of had since they are .039) but just in case, they are... will they still work with the Iron heads with that copper fire ring?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I installed the heads and torqued them down... the Ford racing gaskets I got M-6051-A302, that were listed for iron and alum heads, and advertised as .042" compressed... but it did have 1101-2 listed in the corner tab..... which is odd since the 1101-2's are suppose to be .039" compress with a copper fire ring... well this ring didn't look copper to me... they just came in a clear pastic with a very thin card board back... not nice an regit like the 9333 gasket I bought earler... and they had no instructions... (the instructions seen in the pic is from the 9333 gasket i'm using for the torque pattern). And both sides were the same unlike the 9333... I guess since it has the pintoseal...
 

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