Modded Mustang Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
649 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, im sure alot of people are curious about the value of on3 performance turbo kit. I read the post by ModularSpeed and decided to by an on3 kit.
I purchased the kit over the phone. Iwas told 4 days shipping. 3weeks later i finally get the kit when i called and By surprise got the owner answering the phone. He had fired his employee mike. MIke is the one who took my order, but neglected to send my kit or anyone elses out. so three weeks later i finally get my kit. YAY.
well, when i opened the kit, i was super excited, i was checking everything out. I opened my wastegate boxes, sadly, one of the boxes was missing the wastegate. all the wg fittings were in there, but noo gate. i imediately called chad, who was somewhat skeptical so say the VERY least. he said he would open a claim up with ups. The the next day i decided to just buy the another wastegate from Chad, hoping to get one sold to me at cost. CHad declined to sell me one, but instead said he would "just ship me one". I offered to pay for half, to pay for shipping, to pay for any of it, and he said he didn't want to be "that guy". I thanked him and that was it. well after looking online again at modularspeed's writeup, i noticed that i didn't have any of the oil lines that are pictured on modularspeed's writeup. i called chad back and told him that as well, and he said he would have to change the UPS claim, but that they only covered$100 in the claim, but that i should have opted for the additional insurance when i ordered teh kit (i was never given the option for it)
I also asked for a set of installation instruection to be emailed to me because i was missing those as well. I was told i would have have them later that day...didn't get that email either
so now i sit. waiting on a returned phone call or email or something. I dont understand why he wont even SELL me the parts im missing. A parts list would be very nice right now so i can purchase what im missing on my own.
sie la vie.

I hope other people have better luck with ON3. I dont know that id recommend them at this point in time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
Why would he open a claim with UPS? Was the box broken open or retaped? Did they send a bunch of little boxes or was everything in one big box? Sounds like BS to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
I have been calling him for instructions on my kit for 4 weeks and have never got them. I just wanted them as a referance and if I ever sold the car the new owner would have them. Good Luck on getting a phone call back. I have never got one call back and his voice mail is full as of yesterday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
649 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
It came in 3 boxes. One box was in kind of rough shape. The stuff inside was all scattered about and the packing peanuts were kind of broken up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,376 Posts
All the experiance I have seen/read is the kit functions well for what it is but the customer service is terrible.


I believe Bob Kurgan's shop carried them for a short while but dropped them due to their poor customer service. I am not 100% sure on that though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
I just got off the phone with Chad he was awesome about everything and I think he is just overwhelmed he is the only guy owner operator. He emailed me the instructions and Ill post them on here for you later when I get off work.
On3 Performance:
614-439-0057
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
On 3 Forward Facing Turbo Kit Instructions

On 3 Performance, LLC

96 – 04 Mustang Cobra 4v Forward Facing Single Turbo Kit

Installation Tip Guide


This guide is designed to help give you tips on the install and a rough guide that will answer most questions on doing the install. This is not a step by step instruction but we do try to cover everything that we can on the install to make sure you are not guessing on what you are doing. We highly recommend reading over the install tips several times before you do the install so you know that you are prepared and able to cover the whole install yourself. Also helps make a plan so you know what order and so you don’t end up working backwards on any of the steps. This system is designed for racing or off road applications only


1. READ THE FULL PACKET BEFORE BEGINNING. YOU MIGHT FIND ITS EASIER TO INSTALL IN A DIFFERENT ORDER OR TO BE AWARE OF THE WAY THE KIT FULLY INSTALLS. On 3 Performance LLC will not be responsible for any accident occurred during the install/assembly while following this install sheet. The installer assumes all responsibility for following the direction in the packet. This is to be used for informational purposes only. From the time the kit is installed, the owner of the car is completely liable for the car equipped with the kit. This is to be used for OFF-ROAD USE ONLY. This packet is to be used for informational purposes only and use your best judgment when doing the installation. It only will fit one way, email [email protected] if you need any additional photos to help with the install.

2. When getting started on your turbo kit install, you can begin by removing some of the stock parts. Start by pulling the stock manifolds, egr, mid pipe, front bumper, top radiator hose, oil filter plate, front bumper, all intake piping up to the throttle body, power steering cooler line and drain the oil. Every other step, sit back and take a deep breath and relax. Take it step by step, it always seems like something isn’t going to work and in the end, its great. There is a lot of plumbing going where Ford never designed exhaust to be ran.


3. Moving on with the prep for the turbo install, you need to first do the front suspension install with your k-member kit, a arms and coil over kit. Those kits come with supplied directions and resort to those or the specific manufacture with install questions. We have tested UPR kits to verify fitment with our kit. If you attempt to run anything other than that suspension kit, WE HAVE NO WAY TO GUARANTEE FITMENT.

4. During the kmember install, there is a thin sheet metal heat shield that is used on the motor mounts. It will interfere with the fitment of the headers so when you have the kmember out of the car, pull this plate out to make the header install smoother.


5. During the manufacturing process, debris can accumulate on the inside of the intercooler piping. Its ideal to ensure nothing is sucked into your engine to thoroughly rinse the inside of the piping and check for any burrs before installed. Also if you do this now, it will be dried out and ready to be installed when you get to that step.

6. Once everything is tore down, you can start to get the heads ready to bolt the headers down. On the 4v cars in order to be able to install/remove the headers with the kmember in the car, you will have to pull the studs from the head and use our hardware kit supplied to bolt on the new headers. See the photo sheet to see which studs will need pulled and which hardware to use. After doing that step, clean the head surface but don’t install the headers till after the next step


7. The oil filter relocation kit must be installed before you put the driver side header on due to the area we have to work with. Also being a 4v motor, they come from the factory with a built in oil cooler into the oil filter plate. In order to have the correct clearance, you will need to run the oil filter plate from the 2v Mustang GT cars. This is very important and great detail should be taken on this step as it needs to be right in order to keep lines away from exhaust and once its installed, there isn’t room to work with it. You might have to mess with the fitting inside the adapter that goes and attaches to the block to get the orientation correct. When its installed, the oil out/in ports must be pointing parallel with the ground and will be facing toward the rear of the car. Check the photo on the install page to see how we have the lines ran so you have this properly installed.

8. Side note: We are working on a new completely custom billet machined oil plate to eliminate the plate on the block. It should be released around June 2011 and mainly will just allow more clearance around the header and make it easier to work on things. It’s a completely custom machined filter plate, lines, coolant tube, and fittings. The kit will retail for ~$100, call to order if you wanted to upgrade down the line to give your kit more room


9. After completing the oil relocation, you can install the headers. We normally don’t run a gasket and use high temp copper rtv but its not a bad idea if you wanted to run a new set of oem Ford gaskets if you please. The o2 sensors will need to be extended so either solder ~8” wire extensions or you can also purchase pre-fabbed plug and play extensions if you choose

10. Transfer your oxygen sensors to your headers once installed and plug them in.

11. The next tricky part is the install and arrangement of the coolant thermostat housing and how the coolant lines will route. Starting at the bottom port of the radiator, that hose will need shortened on both ends. When installing it back on the radiator, install it so it will be bending toward and pointing at the driverside front tire area. We then have 2 custom silicone couplers made to route the coolant lines as well. There is a 1.25” metal coolant tube supplied that will take you from the coolant crossover down to the housing. Use the 1.25” silicone hose to adapt from that to the housing. Then there is a 1.5” silicone hose that will take you from the housing back to the oil filter plate. It will connect to the short 1.5” metal coolant tube we have in the kit. In order to connect the metal tubes to the crossover tube at the top of the engine and at the oil filter plate, just cut the ends off of the current hoses that are connected currently. Maybe around 3” sections and couple them with that hose and the supplied worm clamps in the kit. You can find photos showing this step below and there is really no easy way to explain it. You really just have to get under there and mess around with it, take your time and it will make sense. Have fun with it!

12. On the 4v cars, we always install a bump steer kit in order to give us additional room for the tie rod ends/travel. If you run the suspension up around a stock height, it might not be an issue but they way our shop car sits(~1.7” drop), its 100% required. Also at this time before working your way forward, you will need to remove the sway bar end links. We provide a new longer extension made of threaded rod and stainless sleeves. Use the stock hardware and install them to let the sway bar pivot at a slightly different angle. This allows for the travel to be slightly changed and keep the tubing away from contacting it.

13. Before moving any further, its better to tap the front of the oil pan before any more tubing is installed. Once the next section is installed its going to make it impossible to install. Go to Vortech Superchargers and look at there mustang 2v supercharger install directions to view the exact position to punch the pan. The pan bung is 3/8” npt pipe thread and you will need to run a tap though with a good amount of grease on it to catch the shavings. After threading the bung into the pan, it cant hurt to put a small amount of RTV around the thread area where it meets the pan. That way you can be sure that it doesn’t seep any oil.

14. Now you can get the merge pipe and the other 2.5” feed pipe that goes from the passenger side header to the merge(flex section on this pipe). We always run a thin bead of copper high temp rtv around all vband connections to ensure proper sealing and to prevent any leaks. Now is the time as well to get the turbo out and prep it for the install. Its also important that you loosen and clock the turbo. On each side, compressor and turbine side, there are 6, ½” bolts that you can loosen and rotate the actual housings. Make sure when doing so that you keep the center cartridge(the section where the feed and oil drain plates bolt to) vertical. This will void your warranty if this is not adjusted properly. In order to make sure its adjusted 100% correct, you might leave the bolts slightly loose till its on the car. That way you can still clock it once its on the car, finish by tightening them back up. Bolt the turbo to the merge pipe with the 4 supplied 3/8” bolts and prevailing locking nuts. You can now hoist the merge pipe up and install it to the driver side header. This normally will require 2 people and you will want to leave the vband slightly loose to allow it to pivot. Now you can install the other pipe off the passenger side header. Carefully adjust both so that they connect and then get the connection started where they meet. Normally we will go back to each header connection and secure that the rest of the way and then come back to where they merge.

15. The turbo support bracket can also be bolted on at this time. Due to the way the turbo can adjust into different positions, you might have to bend/tweak the bracket to get it bolted up correctly. Also you need to leave the compressor bolts loose so it can rotated. It has to be in a certain position so that it can fit correctly. The flat plate bracket bolts to the compressor cover and the formed bracket bolts behind the left side alternator bolt.


16. You can start on the turbo back exhaust now and bolt the first section of the downpipe to the turbo. It might be a good idea to dry fit the turbo back exhaust first to make sure everything fits the way you would like it to. On our 99 shop car, we shortened the tube where the second pipe connects about 1”. Your car might be different so that’s why we recommend first test fitting. As you will notice the downpipe back uses lap bands to connect and secure the tubing. Its more adjustable that way and allows you to shorten the pipes if necessary to make fitment optimal. We do also run copper rtv on the bands where the connect to the pipe and along the seam area where the band comes together. Its really ideal to have 2 people installing the turbo back tubing as its almost impossible to do it alone. The second pipe off the turbo will snake through the kmember and around the steering shaft. Sometimes we will actually start the y pipe that connected to the catback before installing the middle section(new hardware is included). That way you are able to get it all started and can come back to each section and fine adjust one section at a time. This is extremely important to make sure you adjust the tubing to stay away from the steering, any new oil lines, old lines, etc. If there is anything close, secure out of the way or bend/tweak lines out of the way.


17. You can move on to the cold side and DO NOT start by installing the intercooler. Normally we start at the outlet of the compressor and work our way toward the inlet of the intercooler and then move to the throttle body and work our way back to the outlet of the intercooler. Most of the issues are here when people mount the intercooler first and then say our piping is off. This way if you run the tubing first, you will know exactly where the intercooler must go. You can use the supplied intercooler formed brackets and mount them to the intercooler. Drill though the bottom of the core support and bolt it down using the 6mm bolts. Its fairly thin gauge material so you will be able to tweak/bend on them if required. At this point you can go back though all the hotside and cold side, tighten up all vbands, tbolts on the cold side, and all the bolts on the turbo housings if you haven’t already.

18. Now you have your oil supply and the hose can now connect to the turbo. We generally wait till after the tubing is ran so that you can ensure the hose is routed away from anything moving or hot. Secure the line out of the way if need be, this is very important. No need to over tighten the hose at either end, if you crank down on it, you can damage the hose. It doesn’t take much to seal the connection keep from leaking.


19. As for the drain, you can cut the hose coming from the turbo to accept the ½” stainless elbow we supplied with the red caps. The hose should be cut to length so that it will run parallel with the bung in the oil pan to it drains properly. You want it to be out of the way of the crank pulley but don’t want it working its way upwards at all as that will effect the draining efficiency. The drain is essential to the longevity of the turbo and keeping it in great working condition. The short section of the hose will be tight fitting over the bung going to the pan but a little oil over the barb will do the trick. Both hose sections supplied will need to be cut to length. If this step is done incorrectly, it can ruin your turbo, make sure your following this exactly and have the drain/feed setup correctly

20. Once the oil lines are squared away, its time to move on to the upper cooling pipe. It will require you to cut about the first 3” off the stock hose that’s attached to the crossover/radiator. Then you can use that as couplers and slip the supplied 1.5” coolant tube into each end. Use the supplied worm clamps to secure the stainless hose

21. As for your mass air meter, we normally run our On3 Performance Maf kit and what we designed the kit around. If you opted for our setup, you will need to pull the throttle body pipe back off if you didn’t already drill the pipe for the maf bracket and weld or exopy it on. If you are going with another meter setup, you will need to cut that section out of the tubing going to the throttle body and buy silicone adapters and clamps to allow the meter to splice in.

22. With our kit, we advise to use at the minimum 42# injectors and our Focus SVT pump setup. We sell both and follow the factory assembly manual direction on replacing each of those. Being someone that has done this many times, be careful dropping the tank for the pump, the seal is easy to rip that the filler neck goes into. Almost any dealership stocks the seal so that should tell you enough about that. Its simple to destroy and if you damage it during the install, your tank will leak if you completely fill up. This is common from fox car to current


23. Now basically the complete kit is squared away, you can install the wastegate, blowoff valve and vacuum lines to each. View the photos below to see how the wastegate installs. There is a metal circle ring/flange with a raised edge called a fire ring, this must be inserted with the raised edge pressing against the valve. It will be sandwiched between the mounting flange and the wastegate. Also connect the banjo fitting to the lower port on the wastegate as well before installing as it would be very difficult to do so after its on the car. The top port will remain open and that is normal. There are 2 short 1 5/8” pipes that bolts to the wastegate is called a dump tube. Make sure that the exit port is not pointing toward anything but the ground. When you are making boost, the wastegate will open and that can virtually have a flame coming out of it. So it will melt/burn anything if you do not have it pointing toward the ground. You can see from the photos below how they will sit when installed properly. As for vacuum supply, tee off from any of the vacuum sources and run a line to the wastegate. Being that the 4v kit runs twin 38mm wastegates, its best that you run 2 different supply lines, one going to the blow off valve and one going to the wastegates. There is no issue splitting the line with a tee to each wastegate. We don’t recommend running all 3 items from one vacuum line

24. You will also need to install the supplied egr block off we supply which is a laser cut black plate with hardware. If you haven’t already, you need to completely pull the egr valve off. This plate takes its place and might use a little gasket maker or new stock egr gasket.


25. WASTEGATE SPRINGS: We supply you 3 different springs. The stock wastegate normally is right around 6psi. This can vary so once you get it on your car, do a partial pull to see what boost level you are working with. Then if you need more, the yellow spring can add around 2psi, red 3psi, and blue 5psi. Once again, these are all estimates and you need to test with each to verify what boost it makes on your application

26. Don’t get discouraged during the install, its not easy but once all said and done, it’s a work of art. This isn’t something that your just going to install in a few nights, its an involved process and time consuming. There is a lot of work involved and can be tricky. There are situations where sometimes we do have to tweak something to make it fit as you would want. Once you are behind the wheel and making boost, all the hard work is worth it.

27. Below you can find a selection of items/accessories we sell to complement the current kit



Optional Parts From On 3 Performance:

On3 Performance Turbo Suspension kit $679
On3 Performance turbo air filter $35
On3 Performance 4” Turbo to filter cold air pipe $90 (made to order)
On3 Performance Mass air meter kit $195
On3 Performance 42# flow matched fuel injector kit $299
On3 Performance Head Cooling Mod $70 ***Highly recommended
On3 Performance Turbo Blanket $70 recommend t3 as the area is really restricted
On3 Performance electric cutout with ypipe $121
High volume fuel pump $224


Disclaimer: This packet is for educational purposes only and On 3 Performance, LLC will not be held responsible for any damage to the vehicle or persons due to improperly installing the product, personal injury or death. Products are inspected and strict quality control is enforced before kits are shipped out and in perfect working order. The kits are to be installed by professional mechanics and all warranties are voided unless this is followed. Purchaser of the kit assumes all responsibility and will be liable for the car and anyone involved in the use of this kit. Our warranty covers the hotside of the kit for 1 year and we cover our turbo for 1 month from the purchase.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
649 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
yea thats how it was for me on the phone. less than impressive. oh well, can't get my money back now.
 

·
62mm TiT's
Joined
·
27 Posts
I know chad... he is a great guy, and means well, just overwhelmed with the load of his setup he has in in operation...

I built a kit for him to manufacture to the public... its the ONLY V6 kit for 05-up ... we made it in my garage, and this was late last year... aug/sept time frame should be on his site soon... he is also supposed to use the kit I built on my cobra being a TT and manufacture it to the public too.. I am just waiting on him to get to a more comfortable state in his business... so thoes are things to look forward too... I have NEVER done business with him before... I dont know him on a personal level... I am just joe blow that had ambitions to get some stuff done... and help out a buddy build a turbo kit for his V6... so I contacted Chad... and we worked stuff out.... sent stuff back and fouth, talked on the phone... and gave him a final product at mustang week last year 2011... he sent me a complete kit, we put it on the V6... and got some good numbers....

here is my build that he is going to make and sell soon...
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/the-turbo-'builds'-board/04-mystic-cobra-tt-build/


he is a good guy, and means well... he is NOT a toad, or someone who does not give a sh it... please be patient with him and his business...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,388 Posts
I dealt with Chad a while back trying to order an ON3 kit for a customer. He only answered the phone twice in the 12 times I called, NEVER responded to e-mails/voicemails, and his CS skills were definitely ill-desired.

Needless to say, I told my customer to get a procharger, yet he went ON3 anyway, and why the kit itself fit ok, the amount of fabrication we had to do left a lot to be desired as well. not worth the investment.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,246 Posts
MY ROOMmate had similar issues with them he ordered and paid in full for the 2v kit by the time 3 weeks came around and no turbo in the mail he called them repeatedly untill they refunded his money back sadly no one i ever speak to will hear good things about them and hes just my room mate lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I have not had ANY problems with the On3 set up. I think a lot of people who complain about it being **** just got in over their head with their skill level. Im running stock PI engine aeromotive pump, 60lb injectors, bbk headers, accufab plenum and Tbody, under drives and its making 630 on the tire but I keep it dialed back to 500 just because I know its stock internals. I have a rack in my shop and done mine on the lift. I could see where doing one in a driveway could be a real nightmare. Luckily I own a shop and have access to everything i needed. There was a lot of fabricating but for the money its hard to beat. I upgraded to a JGS percision wg and blow off.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top