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Discussion Starter #1
When i first bought my car the stripes on it were pretty worn out, dried and cracked; so I pulled them off and found that my paint was stained and hazy( like really shitty looking ghost stripes) looking underneath. Thinking it was ruined I had new stripes installed over it to hide the unsightly remains, but shop that installed them didn't do well on the edges they are starting to peel now. After reading through this forum I'm wondering if I can pull the stripes off and save it, I'll try to get some pictures of the damage up tomorrow night, if I still have them on my old phone. What do you guys think is it worth the effort to pull the new stripes and taking a crack at it?
 

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Without a doubt, ill bet you'll be able to save your paint
This would be my suggested plan of attack
Griots garage polisher w/ 5" backing plate
M105
M205
Lake country hydro tech pads
3x cyan at least
3x tangerine
Crimson pads if you want to machine apply wax or sealant
Check this out when you have some time
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/general-car-care-detailing/272252-son1c-blue-full-correction-40-hours-invested-guest-starring-bluesmokesixxer.html
I'd also pick up these products + all clean and make sure to read the email box
 

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Obsessed Detailer
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When i first bought my car the stripes on it were pretty worn out, dried and cracked; so I pulled them off and found that my paint was stained and hazy( like really shitty looking ghost stripes) looking underneath. Thinking it was ruined I had new stripes installed over it to hide the unsightly remains, but shop that installed them didn't do well on the edges they are starting to peel now. After reading through this forum I'm wondering if I can pull the stripes off and save it, I'll try to get some pictures of the damage up tomorrow night, if I still have them on my old phone. What do you guys think is it worth the effort to pull the new stripes and taking a crack at it?
You can most likely correct the defects/swirls in the paint, but if the stripes came on the paint from the factory then there is a good chance that the paint under the stripes, once you fix the clear coat, is darker than the other paint on your car because its been shielded from the sun. If thats the case then you can correct the clear coat defects but you cant unfade paint lol.

Post pics, we will let you know whats up
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the help guys. The faded paint was also one of my worries.

SON1C,

What made you pick the GG polisher over the PC? I also couldn't find the Lake Country hydro tech pads on the CG site, but I did find the CCS pads are these the same or at least a good substitute?
What exactly is the difference between Jetseal109 and Blacklight? My impression from reading is that they are both a sealant, so why would I need 2 coats of 2 different sealants?
 

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I wouldn't get everything through cg
I'd order my pads from autogeek or join www.detailersclub.com it's like the Costco of the detailing world
Blacklight is a glaze that can stand alone for a couple weeks
Ccs pads logic does not make sense to me so ill never use them
Gg is more powerful and has a lifetime warranty
 

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detailedimage has some good deals as well!

the GG is more powerful and better all around! The rupes machine, albeit expensive, is flat out amazing! Ill be getting one from Todd one day in the future!

as sonic said, get the flat pads!
get BFWD or menzerna powerlock

wash
clay
compound
polish
clean paint
seal paint
condition trim
wheels waxed and tires dressed
interior detailed

= one clean ride - expect to spend 10+ hours!
 

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Thanks for the help guys. The faded paint was also one of my worries.

SON1C,

What made you pick the GG polisher over the PC? I also couldn't find the Lake Country hydro tech pads on the CG site, but I did find the CCS pads are these the same or at least a good substitute?
What exactly is the difference between Jetseal109 and Blacklight? My impression from reading is that they are both a sealant, so why would I need 2 coats of 2 different sealants?
GG ftw man, the general consensus is that the GG is more powerful torque wise and it has a LIFETIME warranty which speaks to me.

If you are debating on a sealant, im going to do a 2 or 3 way sealant test and a 4 way wax test in a couple days

Waxes: Pete's 53, CG XXX, Zymol Glasur, Wolfgang Fuzion.
Sealants: Blackfire Wet diamond, Four Star Ultimate Paint protection and Jetseal109.

The big faceoff is BFWD vs FSUPP, i just got FSUPP in tonight

Jetseal is decent and works well as a combo topped with a wax, Generally 2 coats are done to unsure really good coverage.
 

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Potato
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wash, clay, compound, polish, I think it will be fine. Use your favorite products, time and elbow grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I was on 4.5 on a GG. The top was done in halfs with fresh pads on each side. I'm thinking now I need a more abrasive polish thinking m101 or 105
 

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It'll buff out...
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UC should be cutting that just fine, like said bump up your speed. You should be correcting at 5.5-6 imo. I used speed 6 with a cyan pad and UC and it cut through hazy oxidation just fine. Just be ready to hold on to that machine lol.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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An update on this one, here's where i sit after a couple passes with Meg ultimate compund on a cyan pad. Any advice?
I was on 4.5 on a GG. The top was done in halfs with fresh pads on each side. I'm thinking now I need a more abrasive polish thinking m101 or 105
UC should be cutting that just fine, like said bump up your speed. You should be correcting at 5.5-6 imo. I used speed 6 with a cyan pad and UC and it cut through hazy oxidation just fine. Just be ready to hold on to that machine lol.

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I do agree with Stevey, speed 4.5 will cut but speed 5+ with very firm pressure will up the cut. THAT being said...

UC is an OTC product designed to remove oxidation and boost overall gloss, it doesnt have a "compound" deep cut like m105 does. If you paint has never been corrected, the odds are that you will need to get a more abrasive compound.

Before you get 105 tho, try a fresh pad using firm pressure and VERY slow arm speed with your polisher on speed 6. Also give the pad a spray of water right before you do the cut.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Going to try bumping up the speed today. Also ordered some 105 and more pads last nite. Hopefully I get it by this wkend.
 

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Sweet man good luck to you. TBH UC is really not a heavy cut, its more of a medium/heavy polish aimed at the average consumer with minor swirls oxidized paint, its not designed to cut deep into clear to remove major defects. Oxidation makes your paint look horrible but it doesnt take much to correct it, whereas scratches and such are much deeper.

105 WILL get it out lol.
 

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That haze is normal, its compounding haze.

Youll need to refine the finish with a medium polish, then repeat that step with final polish, This will bring the gloss back into your paint.
 
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