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Discussion Starter #1
Just some minor questions I can figure out myself I just like absorbing as much info as possible during any project i'm working on. Ok I have both PI heads currently in the machine shop (both have SUPER low miles and are beautiful) which are getting cleaned up, 3 angle job and brass ring around the valves, they also do very thorough checks on the heads at this shop you guys should check out the site it's called "The Engine Lab" in Tampa FL off 78th st, they are very renowned in the area for there superior work and i've been trying to save the money to get them ported but it would end up running me an extra 350-400$ or so, which leads to my first question. I've always been a chevy man this is my first ford, how much HP will I gain from a high quality porting job? I know the intake manifold and plenum (cam, bolt ons etc) plays a big factor in this, but in general, even though I will have the stock pi intake at first, lets pretend I have the eddy on there with 70mm plenum or somethin (like I said this is just generally) but with that being said, not to mention I have BBK exhause already installed and headers are ordered. Is it really worth the $ getting them ported? They seem to be pretty good flowing heads from the charts i've looked at. Any recommendations on intake manifolds would be appreciated also. Basically this thread is made in hopes you guys will give me as much input as possible when it comes to which cams, bolt ons, what kind of HP I can expect, 3.73 gears? Things like that. This threads getting a little long so I will make one more with a slightly more simple question I have about this build. TTTTHHHANKS SO MUCH IN ADVANCE!!!
 

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I cant give you any numbers, but good luck with your project, we might be neighbors - you should just get it dyno-ed and post up the numbers. I have ready several times that porting PI (and NPI) heads requires great detail and not quite like porting old school SBC's.

BTW, I live not but a few miles from engine lab, in Riverview. I have similar mods as you but no PI heads. I may actually go to LKQ and look for some and do what you are doing.


Again good luck with it.
 

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PI Swap nipple question (I know I know i saw the other thread:))+ 1 more ?

Ok if you guys have read any of my other threads you know i'm pretty much in reassembly mode on my Pi swap. Just so you know I currently removed the entire wiring harness and am in the process of cleaning it up with all new conduit and electric tape so it looks nice and clean when it's all done I will accept nothing less, i'm painting wheel wells and most of the engine bay flat black. NOW, as far as this water nipple goes, i've seen the thread where it shows the before and after, but it didn't show the process of how it's removed (from what I gathered bang it with a big rubber mallet toward the front of the block) and installed. Not a problem i'm sure I can figure it out, my question is, is it really necessary to install this nipple? The metal factory nipple is in good shape and I have the PI water line that runs through the valley and I was wondering if you guys think it would be ok to cut approx a 2 inch piece of rubber water hose and clamp it to the metal nipple and clamp the other end to the valley tube rather then going through the trouble of ordering it and un installing the old and installing the new. I have another more in depth question about the bottom end but his thread is getting long also so i'll make another after you guys hopefully help me out with this question and the one I posted right before this one.
THANKS SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!:cool:
 

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Yea man I live in Pasco and Hillsborough. I live in Brandon at parsons and 60 when i'm in hillborough. Oh don't worry man I may be a chevy man but I know what goes into this pi swap, I was just hoping to get some numbers off people. I've worked at a nissan dealership where I removed the computer chip and dyno tuned and reprogrammed the chip and re installed into many a nissan. And that's just one example of my ecu work, I am a very established mechanic there's nothing I can't do, I fabricate turbo headers... Calibrate cnc's to grind cams, I mean not to toot my own horn but i've just about done it all. I just havn't dont a PI swap and was wondering what kind numbers i'll gain if I spend the extra cash getting them ported. But yea man I probably drive by your house all the time, if you want to do the pi swap I can tell you where to go right next to your house to get nice pi heads guaranteed for a great price (with cams), mine were so clean I didn't even have to take them to the machine shop but I wanted toe valve job and copper rings and possibly ported, plus when I do head swaps I get them to the machine shop asap no matter what no questions asked but that's just me. If you need some help man I don't work for free but I do if you just need some guidance i'de be willing to come but for free and see what you got and point you in the right direction. Anyways thanks for the post.
 

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yes make sure u get the new nipple
 

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Well I already installed it without the new nipple and made sure the intake goes on fine and all is well. Hell before I began this head swap I used a long heater core hose when all I had installed was the pi intake and K&N cai. And it worked perfectly. I figured this should be just find seeing as i'm only using 2-3 inches of tubing at most. But i'll probably take your advice. Could you give me the part number for this nipple? And possibly a brief description on how to remove the old one? It would be MUCH appreciated, i'll be posting pics within the next couple days.
THANKS SO MUCH
 

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Well I already installed it without the new nipple and made sure the intake goes on fine and all is well. Hell before I began this head swap I used a long heater core hose when all I had installed was the pi intake and K&N cai. And it worked perfectly. I figured this should be just find seeing as i'm only using 2-3 inches of tubing at most. But i'll probably take your advice. Could you give me the part number for this nipple? And possibly a brief description on how to remove the old one? It would be MUCH appreciated, i'll be posting pics within the next couple days.
THANKS SO MUCH
 

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I don't know if this is going to help you out or not, I put down 278 rwhp/ 295 rwtq after doing the PI HEADSWAP with no work done to the heads and using the STOCK PI CAMS
 

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Interesting, I didn't know it got over 270 to the wheels I thought it was to the crank. Well that's good news. I plan on getting mild cams, headers to go along with my bbk exhaust, and probably go with the eddy intake manifold or this other one I heard about on a thread I can't think of the name right now. I just got done welding the new front end on. Pulling out the old water pump nipple, and installing the air bag sensors and metal bumper. Next I will take some more pics, then start digging into the wiring harness which i'm not really looking forward to to be honest. Don't get me wrong I love making my wiring jobs look better then the best, but man somehow this wiring harnes is a MESS. I'll make it look better then new though. Then after that I plan on installing the heads and power washing and scrubbing the engine bay completely (I already installed new motor mounts) that way my flat black paint job wont flake off in a month or two. I'm debating on painting the block. I think i'm just going to keep it clean like the heads and new manifold and headers I think that should be a pretty slick look. I'm mostly proud of the body work when I say this think was smashed I mean it was SMASHED. Driver side was worse, air bags deployed, pushed radiator core support back so far it pierced the battery and oozed battery juice everywhere. Anyways i'm happy to say she's coming together beautifully. I have put a stethascope on the bottom and and heard nothing but oil swoshing around, so I think i'm fine there, it has about 135k. If the bottom end is for some reason shot I will be furious, the only reason that leads me to think it's a possibility is that the npi heads looked brand new, and the car ran perfect for about 5-6 months then started losing power and blowing white smoke. However it blew smoke during acceleration not deceleration which tells me it's the valve guide seals, or possibly bad head gasket which would help explain lack of power. Either way i'm going to risk it I think the bottom end is fine and if it's not i'll just have to pull the motor. I wanted flat top pistons and performance rods anyways so if it must happen then i'll just have to look at the bright side. anyways, thanks for the responses!
 
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