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I just picked up my 2008 GT (75k miles) from getting a tire replaced at Firestone and they informed me my front lower ball joints have play. They gave me a quote for $771 to get it fixed. It appears to need two parts at $300 each and then $170 to remove and replace the parts.

I lowered my car a few years ago and soon after it started clunking when going over speed bumps or hitting a pothole. It's been doing this the last few years but been busy moving 3 times, work and school.

Would the clunking I've been hearing be the ball joints?

After some research I found a forum that said to replace the lower control arms with these.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-front-controlarms-0511gt.html

Does this seem right to replace my ball joints and fix the clunking? How hard is it to do?

I'll be honest I don't know anything about cars so if it's too hard and takes too long then I'll buy the parts and take it to a smaller shop to have them do the work.
 

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$300 a piece for balljoints!? Thats a laugh. You can buy new (MOOG, for example) for a fraction of that. You can find a set of Steeda balljoints at LMR for about 160. If you havent messed with it yet, replacing an entire control arm is often quicker, easier, and cheaper.

Clunking soon after lowering it could be the suspension bottoming out. Without hearing what you hear, i have no clue. Could be lowered too much, could be the strut mounts popping. Again, i have no clue. A 2008 isnt my scene. I prefer the older stuff. Whatever you do, get an alignment when youre done.
 

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Hi there! It's always less expensive to replace the control arms, not the single ball joint. This is less expensive and you are looking at way lower labour costs. Here is the top-3 of front lower control arms we've got for your Mustang:
MOOG® - R-Series™ Front Lower Non-Adjustable Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly
ACDelco® - Professional™ Front Lower Non-Adjustable Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly
Motorcraft® - Front Lower Control Arm
All the control arms I've listed already have the ball joints in, so you get the direct replacement. Moog is the most cost effective option, ACDelco makes replacement parts for the majority of American-built vehicles, while Motorcraft specializes on the parts for Ford.
And one more thing I wanted to tell you. Always replace your control arms in pairs (passenger's and driver's side), if you do only one side, most probably you are looking to get uneven tire wear.
 

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All of my experience is limited to the 86-95 Mustangs,but the balljoints are normally checked by grabbing the top of the tire with your left hand and the bottom of the tire with your right hand and try rocking the tire back and forth.IOW- push the tire inward at the top while pulling the tire outward at the bottom then pull outward at the top while pushing inward at the bottom, repetitively. If the tire moves and makes a clunking noise,thats the indication of a bad balljoint.The 08 spring/strut is designed like a coilover,where the spring sits on top of the strut pad.The main difference is,the oem parts arent designed with an adjustable collar and threaded strut body,so the stock springs cant be compressed by means of a adjustable collar.Lets say you install a lowering spring that gives the car a 1.5" drop,the strut rod will drop 1.5" too.So if you push the strut rod down 1.5" into the strut body,youre gonna lose 1.5" worth of strut rod travel from the bodys lowered height to its downward compressed height when hitting bumps.Therefore when you're driving and you hit a large pothole or bump and the spring & strut compresses,it can cause the strut rod to bottom out inside the strut body,because it lost that 1.5" worth of height.
It probably won't happen with a 1" drop,but 1.5"+ might cause it?? If the clunking noise is occurring due to the condition above,caster/camber plates can be used to correct this issue. They usually come with bushings or spacers that get placed on the strut rod,after its been fed up through the caster/camber plate.The spacers are placed on the strut rod then the strut mounting nut is installed. This effectively pulls the strut rod upwards by however many spacers you used,height wise.If 4 1/2" spacers are used,the strut rod will be moved upwards by 2",which would prevent you from bottoming out.

Check your swaybar endlinks too.Because of their mounting orientation and L shape,they can cause clunking noises too when theyre worn.If the lower end can be unbolted and left loose or ziptied to keep it secure (so it won't damage anything),while you do a short test drive,that will verify whether the links are bad or not.Dont buy new ones in an attempt to solve the clunking noise when unbolting one end of the existing link will tell you whether its the cause or not.
 
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