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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, my name is Sam and I am going to be buying a kona blue mustang gt 5.0 manual base with the brembo package. The dealer here in so-cal wants to give it for 60 months finance 0-down payment 470.00 including tax. Before I head out today to pick up the car, does anyone know if im getting a good deal or not? Thank you very much in advance for any input, my new beautiful forum future buddies! :]
 

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Come at me bro
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$470 a month!?

jesus christ. insurance is probably going to be $250+ too.


sounds like rape to me.


btw this is the 1979 to 1995 5.0 mustang section. 99% of us own our cars, and don't make payments.
 

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60 month 470/mo. Gonna guess about a 4.8X% interest or so? Sounds ok to me. I'm paying $415 on a 72 month.

And no his insurance won't be THAT high... I'm paying $115/mo with $500 dedectible and I'm pretty young.
 

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I was born in the dealership world and my best advice for ANYONE looking to negotiate a car deal is this:

Look at every aspect of the loan as a variable to a math equation.

Your monthly payment is the result and therefore should never be negotiated first.

You should ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS negotiate the vehicle price of the car, never the monthly payment.

You will know going in with certainty already the other variables such as your sales tax, decided term of the loan (60 months), and the available APR based of your known credit.

It is seriously that simple.

If you know your car is 3X,XXX then you can use a simple loan calculator to find your monthly payment.

If your calculation says $405 and they are charging you $470, they are clearly "packing" money in the deal somewhere.
 

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$470/month for a brand new, $30k car is not a bad deal at all. if he's paying $250/month for insurance, he either has 0$ deductibles and has wrecked his 6 previous cars, or he's gotten a quote to drive a Rolls Royce.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys, I just bought the car and I got it for 440 a month including tax, and my insurance is actually 115 a month, I have no points no tickets nada.
 

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Post some pics!
 

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As someone who worked for Ford and sold these things everyday, $440 a month is not a bad deal at ALL!

Let's see some pictures! Welcome to MM!
 

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yeah negotiating by payment amount is an easy way for them to screw you.

also when you get to the dealer they migh use the monthly payment negotiation to throw a bucn of useless **** in there.

before you know you are buying an unessacary extended warrenty, tire insurance, window etching, an extra amount to take off the pinstriping that was included in the price when they put it on, life insurance(had a dealership try that on me), credit insurance(yup that one to), dealer prep, the list goes on.

next time I buy a new car I am going to just determine the value of the car, determine what is a decent dealership markup amount(if they diddn't make money they wouldn't be there to begin with so you have to let that one go), calculate for taxes and registration....then just go there and be like "I want that car, I have the money, I have already calculated for all this other stuff, make it happen or I walk".

my grandpa did that, a boss I had when I was younger did that, and an old guy I used to live next to did that buying brand new cars. every time they would end up walking off the lot like "**** these guys the wont sell a car unless they can screw the guy" and then a few days later, the dealership called them, they showed up with the check they said they would show up with, and got a new car.
 

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im paying $504 a month on a 72 month loan with %6.99 interest. but im also 22 and paid off my last car way too fast so nobody wanted to give me a decent loan. the way i look at it is, if you are happy with the car and can afford it, then why does it matter what you are paying. the only thing i regret is the fact that i got my loan through some healthcare credit union and im now stationed in germany, and they wont release the car to come overseas. so now my dad gets to enjoy it until i find lender that will relase the car to refinance me.
 

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im paying $504 a month on a 72 month loan with %6.99 interest. but im also 22 and paid off my last car way too fast so nobody wanted to give me a decent loan. the way i look at it is, if you are happy with the car and can afford it, then why does it matter what you are paying. the only thing i regret is the fact that i got my loan through some healthcare credit union and im now stationed in germany, and they wont release the car to come overseas. so now my dad gets to enjoy it until i find lender that will relase the car to refinance me.
Make sure that (lit.) mother****er is on your insurance policy, or has one of his own for the car. Every third person I've met who's had a worth-a-damn vehicle back in the States with family - lost it to said family crashing it. Fam including friends close like brothers and sisters.
 

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Yes, I am your Daddy
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Nick,

refinance your car with USAA, Pentagon FCU, or Navy FCU. They will get you a lower rate and allow you to ship your car to Germany.
 

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sometimes car companies get kick-backs from the warantee companies to lower there warantee so that the other company can make a sale.

some examples:

baught a brand new 2008 f-150. you know damn well those things are tough as ****. but the ford warantee was only for 3 years?????? so I am sitting there trying to finalize the papers and they are telling me about how I have to buy this other warantee to extend it to 6 years and they are trying to tack it on the bill.

another time was back in like 1999. I was buying a 88 firebird off of a lot with all the intention of modding the ever living piss out of it. which would thereby void any warrenty. when we were finalizing everything I practically had an argument with the salesmen that I did not need thier warrenty. he went so far as getting his boss and a mechanic in there to try to get me to buy thier warrenty.

then there was when I got my current car. I was able to get the message across that I did not want thier warrenty becouse I had plans of modding the car + I know how well these things are built and what the maintanence intervals are. however they tried to slip a tire warrenty in there. they said that the company only goes by vin code so even if I put DR's on there I would still be covered. it only added like $2 per month to the loan(yeah, never negotiating my payment amount again) so I was like F-it fine. have yet to test this warrenty though.

one time my wife(currently ex) baught a car and got a maintanence warrenty where they cover things like brakes and belts and ****. you have no idea all the bullshit making phone calls and paperwork I had to go through to get them to come through on it. the shops they honored were mad far away and shady (imo). there was a process to getting some coverage at a shop of my choosing but the process was such I bitch I finally just said '**** it'

one friend of mine did that bullshit with the aftermarket warrentee. blew his trans. the process of him calling the warentee people, them calling the shop, the shop calling him, setting up an appointmen, then the warrenty called him and had some bs reason why they werent going to cover it before the car even got there, all they while this monkey merry go round was costing him time from work, all while he ad a car with a blown trans. I eventually just took him to a junkyard, we got a trans, we put it in, and had never heard from the warentee company again (btw IIRC this was CARRS)
 

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Thanks guys, I just bought the car and I got it for 440 a month including tax, and my insurance is actually 115 a month, I have no points no tickets nada.
Who is your insurance through? I'm 26 with no points on my record and I'm in the military, best quote so far was through Usaa which was 1900 a year, and that's on top of the 1800 a year for my 4x4 2008 silverado reg. Cab.
 

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Yes, I am your Daddy
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Ultra,

Check on geico, progressive, allstate, the general, etc... USAA BLOWS for car insurance. i had them and was involved in two accidents (I was not at fault on either) The first one the other person took 100% blame, offered to pay everything, her insurance told USAA they were gonna cover everything, and USAA said no, Im 30% responsible. The second time, I had just finished parking, a guy made an illegal uturn and rear ended my car. USAA said they dont want to argue it so they are making it 50% my fault and left me with $1600 of repair damages cause they wouldnt cover it. I got rid of USAA insurance the next day.

My insurance with USAA was 8-900 every 6 months for basic full coverage on my 2011 GT and basic on my 98 explorer. i switched to geico and now paying 650 every 6 months with more coverage on my 2011 Gt and more than basic on my explorer, and also lower deductibles
 
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