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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, i was trying to look for next winters Project for my Mustang And i want to do a 347 Stroker and was hoping you could help me out. I want to try to figure out how much it would cost me and what all i should get so that i can know how much i need to save up, and if its even possible with my budget.

First off i have the following mods done ( hoping i can reuse them and save me money )

-TrickFlow Track heat Upper and lower intake
-Roush 200 Heads - 200cc Running Intakes with 64cc Comb.Chambers
-Crane 1.6 RR
-190 LPH In take Fuel Pump with Rails and adjustible fuel Regulators
-MSD Full Ignition
-75MM TB
-90mm MAF Meter ( I think the guy before me got it off a Lighting? )
-F cam ( POS! ) -I was thinking of going with a Anderson Cam for build?
-28oz Balancer
-24 lb injectors (assuming ill need new ones, 30lbs or so?)
-Underdrive pullies

Ok well thats the important stuff, that i can think of just engine right now. Was hoping to be able to use All this for my build? Minus Cam and 24 lb Injectors, is that plausible?

Also what kit should i use if im on a tight budget? Ive looked at some, also noticed FordStrokers doesnt do Kits anymore?:dunno So i dont know what best for my build and i know you guys know more than i do so id appreciate the help. Im not looking for kill it and make 600HP and spend no money. I just want something i can use on the street and take it to the track in the summer. But want to be safe and not risk cracking the block but want it also strong enough to hold up under WOT.

Also other than a stroker kit itself what other expenses should i calc. into this? Will i need diff push rods, Lifters, I assume i will need a diff. Oil Pan but one with a pump or without? This is the stuff i dont know guys. Sorry to ask dumb questions but i seriously, greatly appreciate your help!
 

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heres my ****, adds up ****ing quick. Wish I stayed 302
nothing on this list is new

shortblock-1500
heads-800
intake-450
porting-500
cam/springs-300
rockers/timing chain-200
oil pump/pickup-150
flywheel-100
injectors-100
maf-100
powerpipe (new)-220
tb-100 (traded my 75mm for a 90mm bhahahaha idiot)
headers/midpipe-150
mufflers-100
gaskets, head studs, oil pump, 300 bucks

stock dizzy, motor mounts, tranny, rear end, stock fuel rails/regulator with a walbro,
 

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oh yeah tf pushrods are like 65 bucks, reused my lifters
 

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friends stroker ran a 12.6 the other day.... you dont wana be that guy. Do it right
 

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Discussion Starter #5
**** so i cant reuse much huh? Damnit. Ugh all i wanted to do was run low high 11s x_x Yeah if thats the case theres now way ill be able to spend that much on everything.
 

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off your list? **** not the heads or intake. And never heard of a 28oz 302...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
off your list? **** not the heads or intake. And never heard of a 28oz 302...
Yeah Me neither thats why ive always been unsure of this engine its all a Big Question mark. It was supposedly was rebuild "25000" miles ago for the owner before the one before me. ive had to do a lot to get her back into running order, but not with the motor. The Tremec Tranny was beat up My guess is the guy used it as a street strip car, theres a lot done to it but the old owner put her away wet.

But yeah i dunno, i really just want to be able to run it at the track, i would love to be able to run low high/mid 11s ideally but i dunno. It just really bothers me not really knowing whats in that damn motor. But if nothing else i wanna get that Damn Shitty ass F-Cam out of there. But problem is, without knowing whats in the motor piston wise and all i cant really get a good cam b/c of worries of unknown clearance issues. And i dunno how much HP i could really get outta changing the F-Cam to a Anderson Cam or something more useful, and if the swap is really worth it, but i dunno:sorry
 

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i beat the 12.6 stroker at the track with my car :)
 

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A lot can be gained with the right cam, worst case, pull a head and check to see what kind of reliefs and type of piston you have. You can always notch the pistons too. It's a lot easier than most people think and the tool is cheap, or you can make your own from old valves and sandpaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All the 302's were 28oz before something like 83 or so, then they switched to 50oz.
Yeah but thats what i dont get, my car is an 87 and the guy that rebuilt the motor bought a Profession Products race ready 28oz balancer and ive looked them up and they run about $200 bucks. But always seems kinda weird to me.

A lot can be gained with the right cam, worst case, pull a head and check to see what kind of reliefs and type of piston you have. You can always notch the pistons too. It's a lot easier than most people think and the tool is cheap, or you can make your own from old valves and sandpaper.
Yeah i was thinking that too about trying to switch out the cam. And ive just thought about saving the money doing a cam swap, find out what in the motor piston wise and while im at it maybe port the exhaust sides of the heads ( Roush had a prob. with the exhaust ports ) If i change the cam i should change my valve springs correct? Do you happen to know the name of the tool i would have to use or a link by any chance?

Thanks for the help guys.
 

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Probe still makes their street fighter budget 347 kits. Hard to run low 11's with those heads and intake, but it will work till you get money for better stuff. F cam will work, but remember it's harder to swap a cam once the engine's in the car. And don't be afraid of compression either.
 

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Yeah but thats what i dont get, my car is an 87 and the guy that rebuilt the motor bought a Profession Products race ready 28oz balancer and ive looked them up and they run about $200 bucks. But always seems kinda weird to me.
He could have swapped out the block or rotating assembly. If you've got a 28oz balancer, then your crank and fly has to be 28oz or it would tear itself apart. Or he's full of **** and it's all 50oz stuff. Most aftermarket stuff is all 28oz so you may have a good assy. Who knows.

Isky makes the piston notching tool. Isky Piston Notching Tools from Thunder Racing

You just put it in like a valve, bolt the head on, and run it in your drill for a few seconds. All you do is mask off the rest of the piston and deck with some painters tape and you don't have to worry about pulling anything apart to clean after you're done.

Yes you always want to change your springs when you swap cams. If you want to do it right, get the spring rates the cam manufacturer suggests, and make sure you can get the springs between .060 and .100 from coil bind at peak valve lift. The closer to coil bind you get (to a point) the better because it will help in stabilizing the valve at higher RPM's.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
He could have swapped out the block or rotating assembly. If you've got a 28oz balancer, then your crank and fly has to be 28oz or it would tear itself apart. Or he's full of **** and it's all 50oz stuff. Most aftermarket stuff is all 28oz so you may have a good assy. Who knows.

Isky makes the piston notching tool. Isky Piston Notching Tools from Thunder Racing

You just put it in like a valve, bolt the head on, and run it in your drill for a few seconds. All you do is mask off the rest of the piston and deck with some painters tape and you don't have to worry about pulling anything apart to clean after you're done.

Yes you always want to change your springs when you swap cams. If you want to do it right, get the spring rates the cam manufacturer suggests, and make sure you can get the springs between .060 and .100 from coil bind at peak valve lift. The closer to coil bind you get (to a point) the better because it will help in stabilizing the valve at higher RPM's.
Yeah i was thinking of just doing the cam swap for now, take of the heads check the clearance and get new springs, prob port and polish the heads while they are off. And i was leaning towards a Anderson Ford Motorsports cam. Perhaps the N-51HR? :dunno Would that give me a lot more power through the powerband than the F-Cam or is it a waist? Or does anyone else have any other recommendations i would greatly appreciate it.

I would like to be able to get 320HP roughly to the rear wheels, is it even possible of am i mostly boned with this combo,lol. Thanks for all the help guys! Oh and if ya need me to list off more of whats all on the car let me know. Thanks again.
 

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I really know nothing of those heads so I couldn't give you an answer to what cam to use. Just call the cam companies and ask for their recommendation. But you could probably see 40+ hp with a better cam and proper geometry over an f cam. Especially if those heads will support some RPM, then you can go billet and turn some more R's. You should have no problem hitting 320 RWHP. That's achievable with stock cubes and good parts. Like I said, I don't know crap about the roush heads so I don't know what they're capable of, but if GT-40/302's can put down 300RWHP, you certainly should be able to do better with aftermarket heads and more cubes.

If you've already got that 190LPH, leave it. It'll support what you're planning.
 
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