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Efficiency is Performance
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Discussion Starter #1
I have developed a bad oil leak that i think its the oil pan gasket and needs replacing. But looking underneath it seems like the frame of the car may be in the way. Is it possible to maneuver it out somehow?
 

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To my knowledge you have to drop the k member to get it out with the engine in the car.
 

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Efficiency is Performance
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Discussion Starter #3
To my knowledge you have to drop the k member to get it out with the engine in the car.
I was assuming that would have to come down. But what worries me is what is just in front of it, the pan is half over a control arm frame and the other half (belly) over the k member. Will it be able to angle itself out once the k member is out of the way?
 

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Efficiency is Performance
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Discussion Starter #5
Still not sure. I noticed a spot where there was no residue of the old gasket sticking out, so i did put some rtv on it. But after a drive i can clearly see dripping and then a puddle of oil, but only after a drive, when parked and off the dripping stops after a while.

Im really just aiming in the dark here on this one, but eventually ill have to do something about the oil pan being resealed. I even tried the Lucas Garaunteed oil leak stopper, doesnt work.
 

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why rebuild a motor that just broke-in? if it aint broke dont fix it. remeber the mbabbit guy? 600K+ miles original eng. and internals. just clean the leaking area really good with a carb cleaner so there is absouletly no oil or dirt then scratch it a bit with sand paper and cover the whole area with permatex black. i have done this on timing cover leak and it has lasted 2 1/2 years now no leak. if its dont right it can work.
my 96 has a minor leak at the front crank main seal and that will require a seal replacement. make sure you know where its coming from so you dont waste your time.
 

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why rebuild a motor that just broke-in? if it aint broke dont fix it. remeber the mbabbit guy? 600K+ miles original eng. and internals. just clean the leaking area really good with a carb cleaner so there is absouletly no oil or dirt then scratch it a bit with sand paper and cover the whole area with permatex black. i have done this on timing cover leak and it has lasted 2 1/2 years now no leak. if its dont right it can work.
i have a minor leak at the front crank main seal and that will require a seal replacement. make sure you know where its coming from so you dont waste your time.
:facepalm:
Aweso....wait its just an oil leak lol. But i do have in mind a split port winstar sawp.
Do a H/C/I with a forged bottom end. but make sure to replace the oil pan gasket while your down there :p
 

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Efficiency is Performance
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1,214 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
why rebuild a motor that just broke-in? if it aint broke dont fix it. remeber the mbabbit guy? 600K+ miles original eng. and internals. just clean the leaking area really good with a carb cleaner so there is absouletly no oil or dirt then scratch it a bit with sand paper and cover the whole area with permatex black. i have done this on timing cover leak and it has lasted 2 1/2 years now no leak. if its dont right it can work.
i have a minor leak at the front crank main seal and that will require a seal replacement. make sure you know where its coming from so you dont waste your time.
Yeah i still need to clean it up a bit down there to better see where that leak is coming from. Hopefully its nothing major, but if it is, i could go with all the way up to replacing the piston rings.
 

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i cant argue with a rebuild. but i must say it is difficult to find parts that match the quality of the original ford/motorcraft. if you do it, make it worth it with a forged supercoupe crank/block.
 

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Efficiency is Performance
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Discussion Starter #13
H/C/I? Im not sure about the cam, they are ridiculously over priced considering this is a used car (my buying logic). But ive seen fair prices for the heads and intake. So just H/I for me :)
 

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Efficiency is Performance
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Discussion Starter #16
i got a cam and push rods for $125. just gotta shop around ;)
My shopping options are either ebay or a junkyard.

Btw whats the specs on my stock and better cams so i know what to look for.
 

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oh yea, forgot to add that the stop leak may take some time. wait a bit to see if it helps. for now just park it on a piece of cardboard to protect the drive way :)
 

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To my knowledge you have to drop the k member to get it out with the engine in the car.
That's what the shop manual says. It is necessary to support the engine from
above with a chain hoist/ engine crane or whatever, because the motor mounts
are on the crossmember. It might also be leaking from the front seal. It's a common leak.
 
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