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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm getting ready to startup a freshly built 4.6 L engine, and don't have oil pressure.

I removed the spark plugs and fuel pump fuse and cranked with the starter 10-15 seconds at a time, about 6 times. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge connected where the small plug goes on the bottom of the filter housing, and it reads ZERO PSI - the needle doesn't even move while cranking.

I removed the gauge fitting and there's not even any oil in the filter housing! (I did pre-fill the filter) This tells me that the oil pump isn't circulating oil at all.

The engine sat for almost a year before I was able to get the rest of the car put together - pehaps the pump lost its prime? I've heard of others using a cheap garden sprayer connected to one of the oil filter housing ports to prime the modular engines. I plan to drain the oil and pump it back in using this method. Anyone have success building up pressure this way?
 

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what pump and pick up are you using, did you put the O ring on the pick up base?
 

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did you measure the depth etc for clearance? If the pick up is too close to the pan it wont suck up any oil too
 

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a.k.a. Racecougar
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I've heard of others using a cheap garden sprayer connected to one of the oil filter housing ports to prime the modular engines. I plan to drain the oil and pump it back in using this method. Anyone have success building up pressure this way?
These engines can be a pain to prime. My super-special homemade engine oil primer has always worked though.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
did you measure the depth etc for clearance? If the pick up is too close to the pan it wont suck up any oil too
I measured for clearance before putting the oil pan on, so hopefully it's ok. Sounds like it'd be a pain to recheck with the engine installed.
 

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mm's nitrous mod
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i never had any issue at all prining these engines, but then again i have the primer set up for these things too. i dont recall ever having oil pressure during crank on fresh build. that is big reason why a good assembly lube is a must.
 

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i never did any priming on new motors. i just sprayed the cylanders down with wd 40, made sure i used oem chain tensoners with the locks on them and pushed them out to make sure there was no slack in the chains. then when everything is all together i just keep the crank trigger senser unplugged and turn it over for about 10 sec, then start the car.
 

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mm's nitrous mod
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2v's not as big of a deal. ive never had had a 2v jump on me, or a 4v either. my machinist had almost all 3v's and some 4v's jump on him.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
May be fine to just fire it up, but I'm a bit conservative/anal with my new build and wanted to make sure I had oil pressure immediately for a little peace of mind.

I assembled the homemade version (under $12) of the Ford Racing primer pump using a garden chemical sprayer (with the wand removed), a 1/4" female brass coupling to a 1/4" hose barb adapter to a piece of clear 1/4" hose and another adapter and screwed into the 1/4" port at the bottom of the oil filter housing.

I was able to build pressure and pump about 3 qts in this way, rotating the engine 90 degrees at a time, then the rest through the fill tube. I still had to crank a few times at 10 second bursts, but my mechanical oil pressure gauge finally jumped from zero all the way to a steady 50-60 PSI. I think that jacking up the rear axle and cracking the oil filter loose slightly also helped get the pump primed.

When I started the engine up, I had 75 PSI oil pressure almost instantly.:cool:

Next time, I would probably use this method to prime it on an engine stand before dropping the engine in.
 
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