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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Folks new to the forum and me and my son Brandon are just pickin up an 88 5.0 LX for us to use as a project build car, we are looking to do a complete drive train

we are looking in to doing replacement rear end with disk brakes, it needs an auto trans currently and motor is running but we are looking to do a stout street motor.

probably like to keep it automatic with a stall converter, but the car is currently pretty bare and since it needs a trans 1st we want to start there.

what is a good direct bolt in trans to start looking at?

I am not sure of whats in it for a trans currently other than a stock OEM
busted POS that only has 1st reverse and park..

So new trans 1st??

Thanx Roger
 

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Look for a AOD or C4. I believe if you go with a C4 you'll have to re-route your tranny lines. Just find a good AOD and call it good.
 

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c4's are known to be stronger tho right?
 

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A built AOD is just as strong as a built C4. What are the plans for the car? Is it street/strip? More street than strip. Will it see much highway time? If it's going to be an in town cruiser/weekend warrior, a C4 is cheaper than an AOD, but lacks overdrive. A built AOD is pricey, but gives you overdrive.

PA (performance automatic) builds great transmissions, and they have C4s, and AODs. They range from good street transmissions, to track builds with transbrakes.

Performance Automatic > C4 Racing Transmissions, Torque Converters, Valve Bodies & SFI Flexplates
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes it will see and run some hi-way but not the primary use it will be a street runner with some drag time

I will check out PA

Thanx Roger
 

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They're the best. They have lifetime rebuild on their transmissions too. All you have to do is ship it back, and you don't even have to use their converters either. Even a full blown race, braked, transmission has a lifetime warranty. You won't find that anywhere else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got the LX back to the house today, while looking in to the 5 lug conversion
for all 4 corners, I thought about a ford 9" rear end for it vs whats in there

there are complete 4 corner kits to rear disks for around $1300

has any one done a 9" in a fox body? or is the one in there fine
it's like an 8.8" or something correct?
 

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I have always prefered manual trans than auto...even in my 89' Conquest we changed it from Auto to Man which gave me some advantage over the competion because I had he better rear end that comes in the auto but anyway something to consider is this an AOD is almost 120lbs heavier than a T5 w/o clutch and is notoriously slower in the quarter mile..the weight dosent matter tho especially in an LX cuz u are already lighter than a GT.
 

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Whaterver u decide I wouldnt trust putting and OE AOD in there. Ford did not design or build this as a performance oriented transmission and it is much more sensitive to final-drive gearing and tire size selection than a T5.
 

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Dude.....for drag racing, a built auto will walk a manuals ass all day long. No doubt a manual is more fun, but there a reason all the big boy cars at the track, have big stalled autos on the brake.
 

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The converter design of the AOD is better than most, because it actually has clutches. A built AOD is the ****. They're just expensive. You can't go wrong with a PA built AOD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
The thought had crossed my mind of switching to a stick but pretty sure a built AOD with a
decent stall to accommodate a lumpy cam is the direction we will take this.

at the moment it's all research to come up with the recipe we are looking for

Next on my mind is a change to a limited slip rear diff with a gearing change to include a spline
change that should be updated with the 4 to 5 lug / disk brakes happen

so whats a good gear set 3.90's or 4.11's I think with and AOD the 4.11's would be good
 

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Dude.....for drag racing, a built auto will walk a manuals ass all day long. No doubt a manual is more fun, but there a reason all the big boy cars at the track, have big stalled autos on the brake.
The reason is because they run brackets if you're talking local tracks, if you're talking heads up, they run autos because they are easier to get the power to the ground and with turbos and blowers you can spool up before launch. The fastest n/a cars are manuals, period. ProStock nhra. Sorry for the rant, just hate autos with a passion. My car in my sig pic is a std trans, runs nines all day long.
For an auto, the AOD is the way to go for a street car, get one with a solid shaft, and get as many upgrades to it as your pocket can afford. buy it once and be done with it. 69fastback is right, PA is a great deal and fairly priced.

As for the 8.8, just go with what you have, 9" rears are ok, but they are expensive and bulky. I run nothing but 8.8s, if you are mainly a track car find someone to weld 9" ends on your 8.8, use the rear disk brake brackets from north race cars(search the web), and put a spool and 33 spline axles in it. You'll never break it and it will be valuable when and if you ever sell the car. The north race car brackets allow the use of sn rear brakes with fox length axles, so the wheels still tuck under the fenderwell nicely. SN axles are 3/4" wider than a fox. Don't buy a kit, just post a thread or do a search on Corral for disc brake upgrade and you'll find all the info you could ever want, and get it done cheaper than you thought you could. That's what this hobby is about right? searching out parts, getting your hands dirty and getting the pride of doing something yourself.
 

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The reason is because they run brackets if you're talking local tracks, if you're talking heads up, they run autos because they are easier to get the power to the ground and with turbos and blowers you can spool up before launch. The fastest n/a cars are manuals, period. ProStock nhra. Sorry for the rant, just hate autos with a passion. My car in my sig pic is a std trans, runs nines all day long.
For an auto, the AOD is the way to go for a street car, get one with a solid shaft, and get as many upgrades to it as your pocket can afford. buy it once and be done with it. 69fastback is right, PA is a great deal and fairly priced.

As for the 8.8, just go with what you have, 9" rears are ok, but they are expensive and bulky. I run nothing but 8.8s, if you are mainly a track car find someone to weld 9" ends on your 8.8, use the rear disk brake brackets from north race cars(search the web), and put a spool and 33 spline axles in it. You'll never break it and it will be valuable when and if you ever sell the car. The north race car brackets allow the use of sn rear brakes with fox length axles, so the wheels still tuck under the fenderwell nicely. SN axles are 3/4" wider than a fox. Don't buy a kit, just post a thread or do a search on Corral for disc brake upgrade and you'll find all the info you could ever want, and get it done cheaper than you thought you could. That's what this hobby is about right? searching out parts, getting your hands dirty and getting the pride of doing something yourself.
I disagree. In a high horsepower situation, a clutch takes a whole lot of figuring out, just to make it work, and typically with a properly built auto, the car will go faster.

This has been the topic of many debates on yellowbullet, and never ends with a definitive answer lol.
 

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Cool factor = Stick
Fun factor = Stick
Consistancy factor = Auto
HIGH horsepower Street/Strip = Auto

Clutch for HIGH horsepower Street/Strip in a manual car on the street is sucky! But it's all what you are willing to put up with. If you are making more power than a Standard Astro, G-Force, TKO, T56 can handle, you aren't going to like the drivability issues that will come with it if you stay manual. Some people are just willing to put up with more than others. This is my opinion on the subject.
 
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