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Discussion Starter #1
A little over a month ago, I was in the finals of a Mustang Shootout and things went south. After pulling the oil pan, I discovered chunks of metal and tons of metal shavings. I knew this wasn't gonna be good.

The main girdle was broken in 5 different places, so I went ahead and tore down the rest of the motor. One of the bearings had froze on the crank, which in turn snapped a 4340 forged rod and broke the piston and wrist pin.

Luckily, the block was fine other than a small bruise, which will be easily fixed.
So, time for a rebuild. This time I am going with Manley (had Eagle) forged H-beam rods, 4340 forged Lunatic Pro Series crank (had a Scat) and custom 15.5:1 CR Diamond pistons (had 14.5:1 CR JE pistons).

The heads were checked and survived with no damage (AFR 205's). They had some port/polish work, but my machinist has really worked on them and on the flow bench they are flowing [email protected] lift. Just a lil more polish work and they will be done.

I am also machining in 4 bolt splayed main caps for extra strength and durability as well as a few other goodies.

The new set up with be .060 overbore making it 415cid Windsor Ford Racing Sportsman block, Manley rods, Lunati crank, Diamond pistons, splayed main caps, CamMotion custom grind billet cam (300+ duration and 720+ lift), Edelbrock Victor Jr intake, Pro Systems 950 Dominator carb, upgraded Comp Cams triple valve springs, Comp Cams Pro roller rockers, Comp Cams pushrods and lots of other goodies.

Anyhoo, here's some pics of the car and process on the motor. ENJOY...





Splayed main caps machined in and block awaiting line hone and bore...



AWESOME port work on AFR's...




And new crank right off the lathe after chamfered oil holes and micro-poilish...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice 4-eye! Are those 10.5Ws on the back? Give some more details please :D

Yep, 10.5W's. As far as details....415W(new set up), C4, Coan 5500 stall, 4.86's, 9", Strange spool, Moser 35 spline axles, Strange center section, 4 link rear end, etc. Best time with old set up was a [email protected] with a 1.31 60' off the foot brake.

The goal with new set up is mid 9's N/A off the t-brake with low 1.2x 60's.
 

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Yep, 10.5W's. As far as details....415W(new set up), C4, Coan 5500 stall, 4.86's, 9", Strange spool, Moser 35 spline axles, Strange center section, 4 link rear end, etc. Best time with old set up was a [email protected] with a 1.31 60' off the foot brake.

The goal with new set up is mid 9's N/A off the t-brake with low 1.2x 60's.
What does the car weigh? Looks like a bad ass ride. I think you could use more head on that engine though. Sounds like a kick ass set up. Sure does look like you have a good chassis set up as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What does the car weigh? Looks like a bad ass ride. I think you could use more head on that engine though. Sounds like a kick ass set up. Sure does look like you have a good chassis set up as well.

THANKS man. Yeah, I am getting the suspension dialed in. The cars straight every pass and "yes" a set of 225 heads would be better. Right now, with all the port work...my lil 205's are flowing better than AFR's Race Ready 225's.

As far as weight, the car weighs 2655 with me in it (I am 135lbs). I am wanting to shed about 150-200 lbs. I am looking at doing a glass deck lid with lexan and lexan in the rear 1/4 windows.

The only problem is the hatch is really where I would want the weight (high and on the rear). So, I am unsure as to what I am gonna do. The front end is an AJE tubular k-member with coil overs, Flaming River manual rack and Aerospace manual brakes.

With the new set up and leaving off the t-brake, I know the car will have mid 9's N/A in it. I was so close to 9's with the old set up (10.01). And after tearing the motor apart and seeing some of the questionable building that was done, I am very confident in the improvements and upgrades I am making.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Darrell, looks like you have one hell of a ride. Would ya mind posting some pics and specs? Is your motor N/A or on the dope? THANKS

Mitch
 

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THANKS man. Yeah, I am getting the suspension dialed in. The cars straight every pass and "yes" a set of 225 heads would be better. Right now, with all the port work...my lil 205's are flowing better than AFR's Race Ready 225's.

As far as weight, the car weighs 2655 with me in it (I am 135lbs). I am wanting to shed about 150-200 lbs. I am looking at doing a glass deck lid with lexan and lexan in the rear 1/4 windows.

The only problem is the hatch is really where I would want the weight (high and on the rear). So, I am unsure as to what I am gonna do. The front end is an AJE tubular k-member with coil overs, Flaming River manual rack and Aerospace manual brakes.

With the new set up and leaving off the t-brake, I know the car will have mid 9's N/A in it. I was so close to 9's with the old set up (10.01). And after tearing the motor apart and seeing some of the questionable building that was done, I am very confident in the improvements and upgrades I am making.
I wouldn't worry about pulling weight out of the back. You have big ass W tires and a wicked suspension. Were you footbraking when you ran those numbers? If you are 2650 now I would think you would run in the 9.20 range once everything is dialed in, especially if you pull more weight out. Hell, you might make an 8 second pass. I went 9.30s at just over 3000 pounds and I think our engines are probably pretty comparable as far as horsepower goes. I had a stock suspension and a 28x10.5W but I had a ton of hours and passes in the suspension. I think when you get this new engine in you are going to have to buy a box of depends for when you let go of the transbrake.
 

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Darrell, looks like you have one hell of a ride. Would ya mind posting some pics and specs? Is your motor N/A or on the dope? THANKS

Mitch
Here are some pictures and info on the car. I sold the car but kept the engine and trans which I am now putting in a 95 Cobra. There is a **** load of videos of that car and other cars of mine on the Myspace and videos link in my signature. If you want anymore details, ask and I will tell.

90LX info
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I wouldn't worry about pulling weight out of the back. You have big ass W tires and a wicked suspension. Were you footbraking when you ran those numbers? If you are 2650 now I would think you would run in the 9.20 range once everything is dialed in, especially if you pull more weight out. Hell, you might make an 8 second pass. I went 9.30s at just over 3000 pounds and I think our engines are probably pretty comparable as far as horsepower goes. I had a stock suspension and a 28x10.5W but I had a ton of hours and passes in the suspension. I think when you get this new engine in you are going to have to buy a box of depends for when you let go of the transbrake.
Yeah, I will most certainly get used to the car again. I made a few t-brake launches getting the suspension dialed in...but no full track passes. Also, this is my first drag car with an auto...still kinda getting used to the whole holding the button in, jumping on the 2 step, releasing the button and seeing the sky.

The first couple times I raced it, I must have felt for the clutch for the first 10 passes...LOL As far as times with the old set up and the #'s it ran. I believe the motor was somewhat hurt when I bought it. Lemme rephrase that....I think there was some questionable aspects that went into the building and parts of the motor. It was turn key and I didn't tear it down and inspect it before going racing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here are some pictures and info on the car. I sold the car but kept the engine and trans which I am now putting in a 95 Cobra. There is a **** load of videos of that car and other cars of mine on the Myspace and videos link in my signature. If you want anymore details, ask and I will tell.

90LX info
What intake is that on there? AWESOME set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'll have few less cubes than your set up and if I can squeeze a 9.50 out of it, I will be content for awhile. I think with some more seat time, more weight reduction and of course....new motor set up, I might be able to creep up on your old times.
 

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What intake is that on there? AWESOME set up.
It was a CHI Commander 4.0 and a Holley Ultra HP 1150 dominator. The engine actually lost a few horsepower with with that intake and new cam over the previous set up. The problem was the compression. I figured I could mill the heads a bunch more and bring the compression up to 14.25 or 14.5 but after checking valve to piston clearance I was real tight on both valves and had no room to mill. So there I sat with all of these parts designed around a 14.5:1 engine and only had about 12:1. I guess that is what I get for being in a hurry.
 

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I'll have few less cubes than your set up and if I can squeeze a 9.50 out of it, I will be content for awhile. I think with some more seat time, more weight reduction and of course....new motor set up, I might be able to creep up on your old times.
I don't think the minor difference in cubes will mean much. You should still make around 700 horsepower and you have a light car. Get everything working good together and I think it will suprise you.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah, I LOVE BIG compression motors. The old set up was 14.5:1 and the new will be a true 15.5:1 compression. There's nothing better sounding than a high compression, big lift cam car loping around. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey Darrell,

I didn't notice in your motor pics...but, did ya run an vacuum pump? My engine builder keeps razzing me about biting the bullet and buying one....LOL

I know they pick up around 20ho, but OMG...$600.00
 

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Hey Darrell,

I didn't notice in your motor pics...but, did ya run an vacuum pump? My engine builder keeps razzing me about biting the bullet and buying one....LOL

I know they pick up around 20ho, but OMG...$600.00
I ran one last year but not the years prior. Vacuum pumps are nice. We seen about 20hp on my engine. You have to make sure the engine is sealed up very well. Use silicone everywhere. I found mine on Ebay for $350 and it came with the pump, breather tank and hoses. I sold it for $350 when I was done with it :D

What I didn't like about it was after mounting it I had no room for an alternator. The lower radiator hose was in the way on one side and the vacuum pump was in the way on the other side. Up until I put the vacuum pump on this car was a 100% daily driver in the summer. No alternator kind of ruins the streetability. I was going to have a driveshaft made with a pulley on it and mount the alternator to the rear end but I ended up selling the car before I had a chance to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I ran one last year but not the years prior. Vacuum pumps are nice. We seen about 20hp on my engine. You have to make sure the engine is sealed up very well. Use silicone everywhere. I found mine on Ebay for $350 and it came with the pump, breather tank and hoses. I sold it for $350 when I was done with it :D

What I didn't like about it was after mounting it I had no room for an alternator. The lower radiator hose was in the way on one side and the vacuum pump was in the way on the other side. Up until I put the vacuum pump on this car was a 100% daily driver in the summer. No alternator kind of ruins the streetability. I was going to have a driveshaft made with a pulley on it and mount the alternator to the rear end but I ended up selling the car before I had a chance to do that.
Well, I think I am gonna pass on the pump for right now. I am actually doing really well and staying within my budget (which would be a first, LOL).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
After all the machining we did on my Ford Racing Sportsman block (splayed 4 bolt main caps)...I got an offer on my block that I couldn't refuse. Soooooooooooooooooo, I went all out, bit the bullet and ordered a Dart block. WAHOOOOOO. We will be boring it to 4.080 and still have PLENTY of room for future rebuilds.

I am very happy with my decision because the block was probably my weakest link on my set up. I will post pics of this beautiful hunk of metal as soon as it arrives.
 

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After all the machining we did on my Ford Racing Sportsman block (splayed 4 bolt main caps)...I got an offer on my block that I couldn't refuse. Soooooooooooooooooo, I went all out, bit the bullet and ordered a Dart block. WAHOOOOOO. We will be boring it to 4.080 and still have PLENTY of room for future rebuilds.

I am very happy with my decision because the block was probably my weakest link on my set up. I will post pics of this beautiful hunk of metal as soon as it arrives.
Why not get a 4.125 bore right away?
 
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