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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Finally got around to doing my retrofit yesterday. I used Eagle Eye headlights which I can confirm have both horizontal and vertical adjustments. I used Morimoto 7.0 H1 Mini projectors. I painted the reflectors black and the shrouds that I used, which were Chrome Gatling gun, black as well. I used high temperature Grill paint for the paint. I reused the old sealant by heating it up and my question is what did you guys use as an extra layer of protection to go around the seam of where the lens mates with the housing? I was thinking of running a beam of GE Silicone II. All in all I am kind of mad I did not do this sooner. It was so easy. It took me about 5 hours from start to finish but that included drying time for the paint and stopping to eat dinner and watching an episode of Ash vs. Evil Dead LOL let me know your thoughts. Once everything is fully cured and done I will submit pictures with a review and tips
 

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I just used a basic silicone to seal my lenses. I bought retrofits someone else did, and he did not do a very good job sealing them. Any waterproof silicon should do IMO.
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just used a basic silicone to seal my lenses. I bought retrofits someone else did, and he did not do a very good job sealing them. Any waterproof silicon should do IMO.
Thank you sir. That's what I'll do then.

The last retro I did was 12 years ago. I retroed projectors from a wrecked BMW into explorer housings. I can't remember what I used. I do remember it taking alot of fabbing. Now a days it's so easy. Hard part is separating and putting the headlights back together without burning yourself in the oven.

Cost was

$95 bucks for driver and passenger Eagle Eye brand headlights

$140 for morimoto projectors h1 7.0 minis with gatling gun shrouds

$5 rustoleum grill paint

$40 morimoto h1 xb bulbs

Reusing ballasts from my 9007 kit (opt7 brand)

$20 for morimoto h1 bulb mounts (this was totally optional)

$12 for a pry tool kit off Amazon

$4 tube of ge silicone 2 for outter edge (just bought at walmart)

Already had a heat gun
Already had clamps to hold the housing shut while glue dried
Already had the oven

I got the projectors and shroud for Christmas in 2016. So basically 180 out of pocket got me retros with morimoto projectors plus 5 hours of my time. Not bad. It's not professional but doesn't look like complete crap or eBay looking with cheesy halos or whatever.
 

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I actually had to do mine twice because I couldn't keep the water out the first time. The first time I re-used the old sealant and added silicone sealant but kept having to reapply it because water somehow kept getting in. The 2nd time around I used the 3M Window-Weld. I looked on several retrofit forums and that was considered the best stuff, and it's also recommend to clean out the old sealant. If you go the silicone route, make sure it's a non-gassing silicone otherwise it drying could cause the lens to cloud.
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I actually had to do mine twice because I couldn't keep the water out the first time. The first time I re-used the old sealant and added silicone sealant but kept having to reapply it because water somehow kept getting in. The 2nd time around I used the 3M Window-Weld. I looked on several retrofit forums and that was considered the best stuff, and it's also recommend to clean out the old sealant. If you go the silicone route, make sure it's a non-gassing silicone otherwise it drying could cause the lens to cloud.
I actually bought that window weld but ended up using the existing sealant. Since I screwed up I might end up using it now. Did you use Eagle Eye branded headlights? If so, how did you remove the old gray sealant?

So here's how I screwed up. I USED GRILL PAINT. DONT USE IT. It looks absolutely horrible when dried. From my experience using ebay branded retrofits that were already done and the paint bubbling I thought I'd use grill paint this go around to prevent the bubbling paint. BAD IDEA. I see why it's for grill use. It looks like crap when it dried. Now I have used it on my exhaust to prevent rust, but for anything that will be seen, I recommend caliper paint. I used Gloss Black Dupli-Color with Ceramic from Advance Auto. $8 for the can. It's good for up to 500 degrees and resists oils. The grill paint showed finger prints like crazy if I touched it. Hind sight I should have used gloves but still. I had to undo everything and repaint it all - costly mistake. Another fact I didn't know - Morimoto uses soft aluminum lock washers on the rear thread so once the projector is installed - it's installed. I got one off without issue, the other locked. Now I get to buy another projector. UGH

Anyway - here's some pics.

Here's the shrouds with caliper paint - look how nice it looks. One coat - wait 10 minutes - another coat and done. Be LIGHT on the coats or it will run.


Housing opened and painted - caliper paint with 2 coats


This shows how I cut the rear of the reflector flush so the projector can be mounted. I used a dremel with cutting wheel then sanded. This pic also confirms the Eagle Eye brand of headlights has both vertical and horizontal adjustments.


Morimoto H1 7.0 Minis - Splurged on the best


Here's what happens if that nut locks and you want to remove it. Stripped the threads of the projector. I ordered a new one. $65 mistake


A guy on Amazon claimed to have got a fake Morimoto. Make sure the projector is stamped with the logo if you don't get yours from TRS
 

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I actually bought that window weld but ended up using the existing sealant. Since I screwed up I might end up using it now. Did you use Eagle Eye branded headlights? If so, how did you remove the old gray sealant?
Yeah I used Eagle Eye. I just put the two halves of the housing in the oven and then used a large screw driver to take off as much of the old sealant as I could. I had to bake the headlights a couple times.

Here's what happens if that nut locks and you want to remove it. Stripped the threads of the projector. I ordered a new one. $65 mistake
That sucks... I have the Mini H1 5.0 and didn't run into this problem. The thread on the nut is supposed to warp, not the thread on the projector. :frown2:
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Removing the old sealant sounds like hell but if that's what I need to do. I got a heat gun to help tackle that as well.

And I agree but I guess the nut deformed that it locked. When I was removing the nut I couldn't get it off so I impacted it. Bad mistake. Lesson learned.

More to come once new parts come in. Sigh
 

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I don't think it needs nearly as much, but I used the same temp and roughly the same amount of time.
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't think it needs nearly as much, but I used the same temp and roughly the same amount of time.
Thank you sir. Once the new parts arrive I will update!
 

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Could you provide a little more detail about the Ballast kit you used? I can never figure out which options I would need. Do we need a 9007 kit Bi-Xenon or High/Lo or H1 kit? I'm using the Moromoto H1 mini 7.0 also, like you. Since I don't have any of the wiring yet, could I just buy this $180 kit from Morimoto with the Bi-xenon 9007 option and be done with it if I have the projectors already? Or what would the equivalent be from Opt7?

Bolt AC Series: 35w HID Kit - OPT7
H1 Morimoto Elite HID Systems | H1 HID Headlights
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Could you provide a little more detail about the Ballast kit you used? I can never figure out which options I would need. Do we need a 9007 kit Bi-Xenon or High/Lo or H1 kit? I'm using the Moromoto H1 mini 7.0 also, like you. Since I don't have any of the wiring yet, could I just buy this $180 kit from Morimoto with the Bi-xenon 9007 option and be done with it if I have the projectors already? Or what would the equivalent be from Opt7?

Bolt AC Series: 35w HID Kit - OPT7
H1 Morimoto Elite HID Systems | H1 HID Headlights
Don't buy anything yet. Let me get behind a pc and I'll reply.

Give me 30

---------- Post added at 09:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:07 AM ----------

Could you provide a little more detail about the Ballast kit you used? I can never figure out which options I would need. Do we need a 9007 kit Bi-Xenon or High/Lo or H1 kit? I'm using the Moromoto H1 mini 7.0 also, like you. Since I don't have any of the wiring yet, could I just buy this $180 kit from Morimoto with the Bi-xenon 9007 option and be done with it if I have the projectors already? Or what would the equivalent be from Opt7?

Bolt AC Series: 35w HID Kit - OPT7
H1 Morimoto Elite HID Systems | H1 HID Headlights
So here is what you need:

First - power the ballast. You have two options here. You can either run a dedicated power and relay (recommended) or just power the ballasts from the headlight connections.

Relay and dedicated power harness for 9007
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HID-Hi-Lo-...m3a9d662e91:m:mKViTTpa8lqCIscSEweffuA&vxp=mtr
For size select "9007". This gives you a dedicated power supply from the battery to each ballast.

If you don't want to run a dedicated relay and power you can use these adapters:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-Pair-900...ash=item25da72084d:g:IvkAAOSw~e5ZXJMn&vxp=mtr

Next is ballasts to fire the bulbs. I love OPT7 as I've never had an issue with their products and they are fairly priced. I love their bullet style ballasts but they are discontinued. These will work good for the bulbs needed.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OPT7-Blitz...FpZzxUP:sc:USPSFirstClass!98006!US!-1&vxp=mtr

As for the bulbs you'll need H1 bulbs. Now I'm a stickler when it comes to bulbs because cheap bulbs are hit and miss on quality. If you're doing a retrofit using high quality projectors, I'd invest in quality bulbs. I went with Morimoto XB 5500K bulbs. Pure white light with a tinge of blue (notice the tinge part. It's super light blue to it. Barely noticeable).

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-parts/hid-bulbs-h-series/h1-morimoto-xb-hid.html

Now I splurged and got the H1 Ho1ders because I wanted to ensure the bulb was straight as possible in the projector to ensure a proper beam pattern. To me it was cheap insurance for $20.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/build-materials/morimoto-mini-h1-moto-hol1der.html

Good luck!

PS - Yeah you could buy a cheap all-in-one H1 kit but the bulb is what I'm stressing that you'll want quality on.
 

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I really appreciate the effort and details. Thank you for taking the time to spell that out for me.
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I really appreciate the effort and details. Thank you for taking the time to spell that out for me.
Hope it helped! I've learned to buy once then buy cheap and buy twice.
 

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I bought the Morimoto H1 9007 kit and the relay. I personally don't think it's worth the price because I have had to replace a few parts already (DRL control module, ballast, and relay) and it's only been a couple years. BUT their warranty and customer service are great, and once the issue was determined to be the part they sent out a new part to me free of charge.
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I bought the Morimoto H1 9007 kit and the relay. I personally don't think it's worth the price because I have had to replace a few parts already (DRL control module, ballast, and relay) and it's only been a couple years. BUT their warranty and customer service are great, and once the issue was determined to be the part they sent out a new part to me free of charge.
Yeah it's just morimoto costs are so high on the relay when I had mine for years and no issue
 

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I made my own relay harness with a simple relay from the junkyard, stock style fog light relay, and made another for my fogs cause they weren't an OEM option on my 03 V6.

The wiring part is pretty simple, but for sure get Hi/Lows and a good quality bulb. Also try to stick between 5000K and 6000K for a nicer light, closer to the 5000K to 5500K with keep you with a nice, mostly white light and good visibility
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I made my own relay harness with a simple relay from the junkyard, stock style fog light relay, and made another for my fogs cause they weren't an OEM option on my 03 V6.

The wiring part is pretty simple, but for sure get Hi/Lows and a good quality bulb. Also try to stick between 5000K and 6000K for a nicer light, closer to the 5000K to 5500K with keep you with a nice, mostly white light and good visibility
I got to figure out how to wire in the actuator on the projector to get high beams. I don't know what wire to tap into
 
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