Modded Mustang Forums banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I did some searching on here but couldn't find what i was looking for.

Is it possible to read check engine light codes with the car not running? I would guess that it is. My car won't start, and when I turn the key to the 'on' position (not to crank the motor, just to power up the electric) all the dash lights come on and then turn off, but the CEL stays lit. I read somewhere that the CEL is supposed to go unlit after a couple seconds., but mine does not.

So, can I hook up my battery, turn the ignition to 'on' and then pull the codes, if any, with a scan tool or at the local Autozone or Advanced Auto?

Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,864 Posts
Yea you can do that. The scan tool only need a little power from the OBD II port to run. If you have a tuner you can use that as well. Let us know what codes you get and we can help you pin point whats wrong, or lead you in the right direction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,864 Posts
Sounds like a good time to get a crate motor. :D
j/k
but yea where are you from? There might be someone on here that's close to you that might be able to take a look at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
hey guys, thanks for all the friendly advice so far. I am in Chicago btw.

To get right to the point, the short of it is that the car has been sitting parked on the street since November. I put the battery back in and went to start it and it cranks all day and won't run. The symptoms seemed to me like it wasn't getting fuel. I raised the rear end on stands and swapped in a new fuel filter. I wasn't expecting this to be the culprit but for a $12 Motorcraft filter it was necessary maintenance anyway. Plus this gave me a chance to prove the fuel pump is actually working. With the filter off I had my friend turn the key 'on' for a second, sending power to the fuel pump, and it was pumping fuel and looked to be real strong. Got it back together and went under the hood to test the Schrader valve on the RH fuel rail and I had a gas geyser, so I assume my pump is ok. My next step is to put a gauge on the fuel rail to see if I have good pressure at the rail. What should it be, around 35 psi? I guess with the car not running, but the pump primed, I should see a lower pressure?

I pulled one plug and it looked like there was not a ton of gas in that cylinder. Might be a good idea to pull all the plugs to see if it's flooded?

anyway, I'll see if it shows any trouble codes and get back to you guys. Again, thanks for all the advice.

And the comment on the crate motor - I wish! I actually have a low mile 2001 Romeo 2v motor in storage. It's a stock long block and I'm considering putting the Trick Flow heads and cams on there once they are available and once some guys test them. Part of me wants to have forged internals installed too, but that is probably out of my budget right now.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top