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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so i have been looking at rear control arms since mine are jacked up. I looked at team z but do not want to spend that kind of money.

At this point i have narrowed it down to UPR spherical upper and lower control arms and possibly the anti roll bar or the base line suspensions spherical control arms and possibly anti roll bar.

I realy want a panhard bar, or watts link and torque arm but right now that isnt in the budget. I know what everyones question is gonna be, what are you gonna do with the car. Right now it's my daily, with just a few bolt ons, i enjoy really curvy roads but I don't get to do that as often as I would like. I'm mostly looking for something to replace my stock control arms, but also be a upgrade. I have looked into all of this and read alot of jazzers threads and post's about the solid end control arms breaking due to binding thats why I am getting the spherical ends.

What is everyones opinion on the UPR control arms, heres a link to the kit i was looking at

heres the UPR package with the anti roll bar

1979-2004 Ford Mustang Pro Series Chrome Moly Rear Suspension Kit - UPR Products

and heres the baseline suspensions kit, its the pro launch #3

http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/kits/ford.htm

The big difference is that the base lines suspensions kit doesn't come with the spherical bushings for the top of the rear end for the upper control arms

I'm still on the fence on the anti roll bar. But I am 100% open to suggestions, i just and trying to stay in a budget of around 300-360 for upper and lower control arms, or somehwere around 600-650 with a anti roll bar on something comparable.

wonder how long till jazzer posts, seems to know his stuff about suspension :D
 

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KCCO
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I just got the UPR LCA's, just the LCA,s not the whole package, and I love them. Make a big difference. I am not going to be very much into drag racing (nothing serious anyway, maybe once or twice a year just for fun) and the LCA's in the first link you posted are exactly what I got. They are pretty much for road racing. Not drag racing! Anyway, they have much much more stability in fast turns, and when the wheels do begin to slide out from coming into a turn hot, the wheels just glide over the pavement and you hear a solid steady screech, as opposed to the jerkiness and unsteady feeling of before
 

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I <3 Boost
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casper told me that there is a shop out near him that has a can full of broken UPR parts... i bought maximum motorsports LCA's
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just got the UPR LCA's, just the LCA,s not the whole package, and I love them. Make a big difference. I am not going to be very much into drag racing (nothing serious anyway, maybe once or twice a year just for fun) and the LCA's in the first link you posted are exactly what I got. They are pretty much for road racing. Not drag racing! Anyway, they have much much more stability in fast turns, and when the wheels do begin to slide out from coming into a turn hot, the wheels just glide over the pavement and you hear a solid steady screech, as opposed to the jerkiness and unsteady feeling of before
the main reason I was getting these is that I have seen where the poly bushings have caused the control arms to bind and eventually break, I want something with longevity. Your driving sounds a lot like me, I got driving curvy roads, but every now and then I want to go to the track and have it hook up better. also if you dont mind me asking why didn't you get the uppers, I wanted them because my car is lowered and I know I can correct my pinion angle with adjustable ones.

casper told me that there is a shop out near him that has a can full of broken UPR parts... i bought maximum motorsports LCA's
what type of bushings do u have? from reading a ton of posts i have read from first hand experience the rubber bushings are better than poly bushings because they don't give as much and the rubber bushings and cause the control arms to bind up.
 

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I <3 Boost
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casper does yes, but doesnt everyone at some point in time and just cause he drags doesnt mean everyone with the issues does.
 

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KCCO
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the main reason I was getting these is that I have seen where the poly bushings have caused the control arms to bind and eventually break, I want something with longevity. Your driving sounds a lot like me, I got driving curvy roads, but every now and then I want to go to the track and have it hook up better. also if you dont mind me asking why didn't you get the uppers, I wanted them because my car is lowered and I know I can correct my pinion angle with adjustable ones.
I didnt get the uppers because I am going to be getting the PHB/TA setup eventually, which will eliminate UCAs. I will be getting the PHB soon and then saving up for the TA after that.
 

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KCCO
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casper does yes, but doesnt everyone at some point in time and just cause he drags doesnt mean everyone with the issues does.
I meant hardcore, single purposed drag racing. Slicks, or DR's, skinnies up front, no PHB/TA, soft springs, ya know, a DRAG car. Not a street car or Autocross car that goes to the strip once or twice a year to let some anger out :shiftyeyes. I know what you mean though, but do you see where I'm comin from?
 

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I <3 Boost
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I meant hardcore, single purposed drag racing. Slicks, or DR's, skinnies up front, no PHB/TA, soft springs, ya know, a DRAG car. Not a street car or Autocross car that goes to the strip once or twice a year to let some anger out :shiftyeyes. I know what you mean though, but do you see where I'm comin from?
i totally know what ya mean but i just dont wanna shell out money for a part that ive heard breaks. this is just my opinion though.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I didnt get the uppers because I am going to be getting the PHB/TA setup eventually, which will eliminate UCAs. I will be getting the PHB soon and then saving up for the TA after that.
I was thinking about doing that also, but i hate to spent that kind of money of a PHB/TA even though i know its worth it, this thing is more of a daily driver for now, but you never know what the future holds :D

mine are poly at one end and spherical at the other. poly is better than rubber.
It looked like from what I was reading that MM's poly's are better than regular poly, hard centers to keep them straight, but soft sides to keep them from binding.

I meant hardcore, single purposed drag racing. Slicks, or DR's, skinnies up front, no PHB/TA, soft springs, ya know, a DRAG car. Not a street car or Autocross car that goes to the strip once or twice a year to let some anger out :shiftyeyes. I know what you mean though, but do you see where I'm comin from?
I do :D. Thats probably how my car will be, I'm about 1.5 hours from the closest's drag strip, so I do play alittle on the streets.

I've got a set of Maximum Motorsports LCA's for sale.
They retail for $389. Some of the best on the market.
PM me if interested.
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/chassis-suspension-brake-parts/213230-fs-maximum-motorsports-adjustable-lcas-99-04-a.html
Idk, I'm interested but never really looked into the adjustable height lower control arms. But i do see the benefits, how big of a pain are they to adjust?
 

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Abyssinian of AX
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theone... If you are into curvy roads, you DO NOT want any UCA (as ma pepe, Cody was'a speakin')... :no

For 1/4 mile use and moderate DD use, a set of spherical uppers is gonna be fine. The UPR's are really not strong enough, as others have been saying. Even though a PHB/TA combo is not ideal for the 1/4, any UCA will be detrimental to corner. For this reason, I would say sacrifice the 1/4 a bit and enjoy the quarner ;)

Ultimately, the suspension parts you need, depends on the grip you have! If you are gonna run some serious sticky's at the Christmas tree, you need to save your pennies and go Baseline or TeamZ. This should eliminate the need for replacing them and will be wonderful for corners. The anti-roll bar, however, is probably too aggressive for the street and might create too much oversteer.

Jazzer :)
 

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ProTree Racing told me they have a 9 second car running the UPR ProSeries UPC/LCA but that Team Z is better. The didn't tell me how long they will last so I guess I'll find out. Probably a long time since I'm not running anything near a 9 second car. Besides there are other guys running them on this forum without any problems. The sperical bushing that goes in the differential wore out on one car at 30,000 miles though.

I'm running everything in your first link except the roll bar. The only difference is my LCAs have spring perches. My car is a DD set up for the street/sometimes strip. You are not suppose to run a roll bar on the street. If is for straight line performance only.

If you are into curvy roads then I would suggest the Maximum Motorsport rear grip package. If I remember correctly it comes with lower control arms and a panhard bar. You run your stock UCAs with them. The extreme duty version has hiem joints and sperical bushings.

Rear Grip Packages (solid axle) : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok, so the UPR are not as strong, not to big of a deal considering te baseline's arent really to much more. i looked at the MM rear grip packages but i have brand new shocks on my car

right now my suspension has stock springs in the front with 1.25 coils cut off and the rears have 1 coil cut with tokico shocks that are only a year old. i have 18 by 10's in the back with 285/40/18 nitto 555nt's and getting ready to install 285/35/18.

jazzer, say i got a panhard bar and i got to the strip maybe 5 times a year will this hurt me there, or is ther something i can do when i go to the strip to help me out. my car is mostly stock for now but im looking into a possibly turbo 5.4 liter 4 valve in the future and wamt my suspension to still be fun in the corners and not kill me but be able to go to the trak alittle and hook good.

jazzer would you run the baslines or MM and what kind of panhard bar.

the reason i also didnt want to get a panhard I didnt know how they reacted to horsepower. I play on the streets alittle to and really want something that with work and last you know, even if it costs alittle
 

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I really don't think strength is an issue with UPR parts. I have a good friend that runs NMRA Real Street and only uses UPR front and rear suspension components. In the 5 yeas I have known him I have never see him break a control arm...even in a car that cuts a high 1.20 60ft. time. I have UPR parts on my car now but since they have urathane bushings I am replacing them. I have Baseline uppers to put on it and based on their recomendations I am going with Maximum Motorsprts Extreme Duty adjustble lowers. I would have no objection to going with new UPR stuff but I want to try something different.
 

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Abyssinian of AX
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ok, so the UPR are not as strong, not to big of a deal considering te baseline's arent really to much more. i looked at the MM rear grip packages but i have brand new shocks on my car

right now my suspension has stock springs in the front with 1.25 coils cut off and the rears have 1 coil cut with tokico shocks that are only a year old. i have 18 by 10's in the back with 285/40/18 nitto 555nt's and getting ready to install 285/35/18.

jazzer, say i got a panhard bar and i got to the strip maybe 5 times a year will this hurt me there, or is ther something i can do when i go to the strip to help me out. my car is mostly stock for now but im looking into a possibly turbo 5.4 liter 4 valve in the future and wamt my suspension to still be fun in the corners and not kill me but be able to go to the trak alittle and hook good.

jazzer would you run the baslines or MM and what kind of panhard bar.

the reason i also didnt want to get a panhard I didnt know how they reacted to horsepower. I play on the streets alittle to and really want something that with work and last you know, even if it costs alittle
A twisty-beast = OK on the 1/4 :yes
A 1/4 -beast = horrible at corners :yes

A PHB is of MUCH more cornering benefit then launching, although it can help. The addition of a TA is where the two endeavors take a distinct difference in directions. For a PHB to do you the MOST good, it needs to be combined with a TA. The UCA's are then completely removed from your car and you no longer have a 4-link rear suspension. The 4-link is fine for 1/4 mile use and preferable to the PHB/TA set-up, but flat out SUCKS for aggressive cornering.

If you really want to hit nice corners.... the UCA's MUST go bye-bye...


Due to the ULTIMATE goals stated for your ride.... I would save your pennies and go Griggs PHB/TA and Baseline or TeamZ LCA's. Strength, regardless of HP/T is needed due to the grip of your tires. If you are running M/T's on 15"s, with the HP projected.... you MUST have strong parts. If you are running very sticky tires ONLY on your 18"s and not droppin' the clutch like a hot rock, the strength is not nearly the issue. I have absolutely GOBS of rear grip, but an OEM clutch and non-beefed trans/rear-end. These will be fine forever, as I don't let the clutch go (maybe sometimes in the rain :shiftyeyes)

Jazzer :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Ok so sounds like im ordering basline LCA's, and saving for the PHB, probably in a month or so, and run it and loose one stock UCA to run a poor mans 3 link till I get a TA. Now say i decide i was to go to the track after I install the PHB/TA could I just re-install the UCA's to help me out, i realize its physically possible to but will it benefit me at all? surely that would make me have a decently cornering car and then have a decent 1/4 when i go to the strip.

Also if I run a poor mans 3 link for say a year or so do you think it would be beneficial at all to order just one adjustable UCA. I don't want to sound like I'm repeating myself but the main reason i am getting rear control arms is that my rear end is sitting funny and I beleive their bent, so I'm trying to also figure out what my next step will be if I find out that my uppers are jacked, whether that is buying a used set of stockers or some aftermarkets to use till I get the PHB/TA setup

I really wish i could afford a WL/TA setup, my car would handle like a dream :D
 
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