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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ford got it right with the new mustangs, so why did they under engineer the crappy rear lower control arms. under hard acceleration i get horrible wheel hop.

so !!

i need to get a set of aftermarket bars. i have researched the heck out of them and find that there are basicaly 3 types. adjustable that i don't need cause i aint racing it, round tube bars, and square tube bars. my question is this. are the round tubes better or worse than the square ones ????????

i don't plan to change out the upper right now. i doubt, if i'm not racing it, that i will need it.
 

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nothing really.....its just for the most part the round ones are the adjustable type......The square ones (which i have) are usually non adjustable.

Go for the BMR poly/rod end non adjustable ones they are great!!!!!
 

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I'd recommend going with a set of BMR (TCA019) "Tubular Lower Control Arms w/poly bushings". The price is $134.95. I'm running the BMR Billet LCAs which come with poly bushings and I love them. Since they are Billet, which makes everything badass, they are a little bit more expensive. Either one would be more than fine for your car.

Do not buy anything that says rod ends otherwise you're going to have to deal with a lot more noise and possibly a thunk feel. Besides, I'm running poly bushings in my BMR Billet LCAs, making 530 rwhp, and they are more than enough with drag radials at the track. Never had a problem and they are perfectly quiet.

BMR Fabrication Inc.

Go for the BMR poly/rod end non adjustable ones they are great!!!!!
Why would he get the poly/rod end LCAs when he said he's not racing it?
 

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im not racing mine and it isnt loud at all, a little noise at lower speeds(like up to 10 miles and hour), there is no thunk at all and a rod end of the axle side.

One rod end will almost entirely eliminate torsional loading in a LCA which would stop wheel hop right away!
 

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I guess you're the only one who has quiet rod ends than. I originally had the same LCAs as you and they were loud and they did give off a slight 'thunk'. There is no need for rod ends for this car, not your car either. If the OP is on OEM tires I bet he could upgrade to a different set of tires and get rid of the wheel hop too. No need for rod ends at all.. If all of us with 450+ rwhp can get away with polyurethane bushings than I think that's proof enough.
 

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I guess you're the only one who has quiet rod ends than. I originally had the same LCAs as you and they were loud and they did give off a slight 'thunk'. There is no need for rod ends for this car, not your car either. If the OP is on OEM tires I bet he could upgrade to a different set of tires and get rid of the wheel hop too. No need for rod ends at all.. If all of us with 450+ rwhp can get away with polyurethane bushings than I think that's proof enough.
I didnt say that they were quiet but they are in no way NOISY or BOTHERING me at all......and i agree that they are over kill but im not a 100% sure what im going to be doing with the car so i bought the ones that were well over kill and they did the job of stopping all of my wheel hop nicely.
 

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I have BMR LCA's being installed Tuesday morning along with my LT's, O/R X and Stingers. I chose to buy Relocation Brackets with them and will have them welded in.

Should be an awesome day, i will post up a little review when i get to drive it a good amount and hit the track wednesday night with all the new goodies.
 

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I have BMR LCA's being installed Tuesday morning along with my LT's, O/R X and Stingers. I chose to buy Relocation Brackets with them and will have them welded in.

Should be an awesome day, i will post up a little review when i get to drive it a good amount and hit the track wednesday night with all the new goodies.
Nice!


I'm running the same BMR LCAs as nasty with their relocation brackets (lowest hole). Wheel hop was gone after installing them and haven been down the track plenty of times. And when greased periodically, make no noise at all.
 

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Nice!


I'm running the same BMR LCAs as nasty with their relocation brackets (lowest hole). Wheel hop was gone after installing them and haven been down the track plenty of times. And when greased periodically, make no noise at all.
Thanks bigpappy,

Besides my rims/tires and powerslot slotted rotors with Hawk HPS pads i haven't done **** to my car and felt like it was time to go at it again. Dad has NO idea of any of this and is going to flip a ****. Especially since it is catless even though here in Fl as you know we don't have emissions. Worst case scenario i swap a high flow catted X on it down the road if any problems.

Our shop gets great deals on BMR parts and then i gave him a call to find out what was the scoop on the two suspension pieces. Couldn't pass it up =). I hope to get it all done, take off my 20s paint my calipers finally and then put my stock 18s back on and go test her out at the track Wednesday if it doesn't rain.

I am hoping for low 13s like 13.3..

JLT II Intake
FRPP 3.73s
Longtubes + O/R X
FRPP/Borla Stingers
BMR LCA's w/ Welded in Relocation brackets

I am also picking up Steeda UDP's and Steeda Delete plates Mid January for a steal =).. My boy just recently bought them and have used them less then 3000 miles.Then got a great deal and went with Brenspeeds E-Force kit and will be installing it up at Brenspeed Jan 16th. I hope to see a nice little drop in my ET with those two mods after they are installed/tuned.
 

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I have the same BMR Billet LCA's as stated above many times haha. With Relocation brackets welded in. I had HORRIBLE wheel hop with the s/c on stock lca's. Since the install of the BMR goodies it has completely eliminated wheel hop. Even get better traction as weel, even on stock tires!! I am at 492rwhp and they are holding up great. Would recommend them to anyone!
 

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I just got some J&M LCA's and UCA and I can't wait to take my BMR tubular ones off. I've had the bushings fail 2x on them.
 

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For the kind of power you make, then the simple truth is any aftermarket LCA's are going to work nicely for you. The secret is not the LCA - but their bushings. The poly bushings are weak and will fail when you start throwing some torque at them. Spherical bushings in just about any aftermarket LCA would be the best bet.

Now, if you start getting into big power, almost ever single one of us who are 'fast' run the Metco LCA's and the Racecraft upper but this is for serious power and doesn't apply to the vast majority.
 

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I have poly in my BMR LCAs but went with spherical for my BMR UCA. UCA is where you really want spherical.
Also, if you plan to lower the car then you want adjustable in either you UCA or LCAs. I chose to go adjustable in my UCA
 

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I have the j&m's.

I have ran many different combintations of bushings on other cars that I have owned. for ultimate traction spericals are where its at, but for a dar you are going to drive every day I say poly or the J&M ply/ball design.

I don't have a report on the durability of j and ms yet cause I have only had them on for a few thousand miles, but I do reccomend them for a street car.

also, I have put alot of miles on cars with spherical rod ends and over time and miles the red ends will wear out ane will need to be replaced.
 

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I have poly in my BMR LCAs but went with spherical for my BMR UCA. UCA is where you really want spherical.
Also, if you plan to lower the car then you want adjustable in either you UCA or LCAs. I chose to go adjustable in my UCA
How much increase in NVH is there on the upper?......I was looking at some and just want to find out how it is.

Thanxs
 

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Steeda works great for me with the poly bushings and no problems. Although the sphere is the way to go. And I would also pay mind to chevykiller. His car is rape and he has had alot of setups and been there done that. He knows.
 
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