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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting ready to the replace the rear suspension on my 2000 Roush. I have lowered a few vehicles and did ball joints and such, but never this in depth. So far I have picked up bmr upper and adj lower control arms, steeda springs, new isolators and oem upper bushings. Plan is the change out the dif fluid while I'm under there. Is there any thing else I should be looking at in the rear end, bearings maybe? Is there a way to check them?

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The rear ends on these cars are dead simple compared to the front. Last summer I redid mine and it took me and a friend about an hour to swap out the springs, struts, and lower control arms. I wouldn't worry about replacing the bearings unless they are going bad. They usually make noise like front bearings or leak if they are going bad. If you wanted you could replace the clutch packs, but again I wouldn't worry about that unless there was a problem (one wheel peel, etc.) or you really wanted peace of mind, but honestly these rear ends are pretty bullet proof. If you really want the peace of mind and decide to replace the bearings - get the ones from Ford Performance.

Diff clutch kits:
https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-88-traclok-kit.html

Bearings:
https://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-rear-bearing-kit-8604.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So far this rear suspension install has went super smooth till now. I can't get the last upper control arm to line up with the bolt holes for the life of me. Between jacking it up and down and using a ratchet strap I can get it close, any tips on lining it up or is there a certain order in installing the control arms?


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perhaps try adjusting the lower control arms a bit to bring the axle to or from. and then adjust them afterwards as needed.
 

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I see you have bought solid poly upper control arms. Over the years I have read a lot of bad things about that design. The solid poly doesn't flex. That actually increases the suspension bind that in inherent in the Mustang 4 link suspension. They can also increase the likelihood of a snap oversteer when pushing the limits of the Mustang's handling. I have seen pictures of damaged torque boxes resulting from solid poly upper control arms.

Here is a link you might want to read.
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/96-04/239965-un-official-suspension-guide.html

The suspension guide was written by some serious autocrossers. Jazzer the Cat was running a Griggs suspension. Last time I checked it was something like $6,000 for everything. You should be OK if you do not push your car that hard but if you do you might want to rethink those UCAs.

I went with UCAs that had heim joints with spherical bushings in the differential in my daily driver. The NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) was more than I could stand. I could hear gear whine where none had existed before. After a few years I went with the FRPP Upper Control Arms sold by Maximum Motorsport and put rubber bushing back in the differential. I like driving the car much better now.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Upper-Control-Arms-C98.aspx

A second reason for selecting that particular UCA is that they can be used with MM's panhard bar. Other upper control arms cannot unless you take one of them off creating what is called a poor man's three link. That is something I would never do.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Panhard-Bar-1999-2004-solid-axle-equipped-Mustang-P482.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Suspension is in and wheel are on. Somehow I must have had it all in a bind, I dropped the lower and the top slid right in. I still have to pick up a few bolts to mount to sway bar, but I was kind of excited to get it on the ground see the stance.

I did a lot of research when I was picking the control arms and went back and forth quite a bit on the uppers. There was a lot of talk about binding, being hard on the control arm bushings and the boxes. I never really seen anything about snap oversteer though, I don't really like the sounds of that.


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