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Discussion Starter #1
So I am wanting to lower the rear of my car and stiffen it up. I already have the front on coil overs. I run the upr 12inch #250lb springs , with strange 10 way adjustable and bump stops and i am happy with how it sits and the ride quality. So for the back I have looked at UPR's rear coil overs that come as a complete set with viking shocks and Q1a complete coil over set up. I am also looking into upper and lower control arms. Was thinking of running UPR's upper and lower control arms. This car rarely sees any track time and is mostly a weekend car that is street driven so leaning towards a set up that is more friendly for that... thanks in advance... its also a 99 gt
 

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I enjoy my BBK gripp upper and lower control arms, and adjustable height springs, but in your case I wouldn't do the adjustable springs. Some decent sway bars and shocks would tighten it up back there, and a pan hard bar or watts link if you're thinking about autocross
 

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Don't go with poly bushings in the UCAs. Under harsh driving they are subject to snap oversteer and have been known to damage the torque boxes. I went with UPR ProSeries UCA/LCAs with heim joints and spherical bushings in the differential. I was still running stock springs and shocks. It made a difference but not as much as you would think and I hated the additional noise, vibration and harshness (NVH). You also cannot run a panhard bar with them. I eventually bought new Koni STR.T shocks and struts and replaced the uppers with Maximum Motorsport's FRPP UCAs with rubber bushings. The car handles far better and I can add a panhard bar later is I wish.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Solid-Axle-Rear-Suspension-C21.aspx

MM sells a variety of LCAs but only one UCA. FRPP UCAs are a stronger version of the stock UCAs. You can save a little money by just leaving those in. By the way, when you change the LCAs you can take the quad shocks off and throw them away. I threw mine away years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/96-04/239965-un-official-suspension-guide.html

Read through that thread...it will help you a lot. As far as brands, UPR, MM, Steeda, BMR are all good brands. There probably more I'm not thinking of...

This was very helpful... thank you sir

---------- Post added at 06:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:56 PM ----------

Don't go with poly bushings in the UCAs. Under harsh driving they are subject to snap oversteer and have been known to damage the torque boxes. I went with UPR ProSeries UCA/LCAs with heim joints and spherical bushings in the differential. I was still running stock springs and shocks. It made a difference but not as much as you would think and I hated the additional noise, vibration and harshness (NVH). You also cannot run a panhard bar with them. I eventually bought new Koni STR.T shocks and struts and replaced the uppers with Maximum Motorsport's FRPP UCAs with rubber bushings. The car handles far better and I can add a panhard bar later is I wish.
Solid Axle Rear Suspension

MM sells a variety of LCAs but only one UCA. FRPP UCAs are a stronger version of the stock UCAs. You can save a little money by just leaving those in. By the way, when you change the LCAs you can take the quad shocks off and throw them away. I threw mine away years ago.

I will take your suggestion and purchase the MM FRPP UCA's ... I am also going to go with the UPR rear coil over kit and MM's pan hard bar.... What would you recommend for the LCA's... Something with the spherical bearing?
 

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This was very helpful... thank you sir

---------- Post added at 06:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:56 PM ----------




I will take your suggestion and purchase the MM FRPP UCA's ... I am also going to go with the UPR rear coil over kit and MM's pan hard bar.... What would you recommend for the LCA's... Something with the spherical bearing?
At least one side needs the spherical...you can both sides but one side minimum. Yes, either keep the stock uppers and buy the FRPPs from MM.
 

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I still have spherical bushings (heim joints) in my lower control arms. Very little noise is transferred through them. I don't know how much you want to spend. MM recommends their Extreme Duty LCA with spherical bushings for 400 rwhp or hard drag racing style launches. They have the standard spring perch which you will not need and sway bar mounts. But, they cost $340.
Extreme-Duty Mustang Rear Lower Control Arms, 1999-2004

The UPR ProSeries with sway bar mounts are $170. They have been used at the drag strip by a lot of people since 1998. I do not race my daily driver but I have been to test and tune days at the drag strip launching on drag radials. I've not had any problem.
79-04 Mustang Pro-Series ™ Lower Control Arms Sway Bar Mount

The only drawback is that the spherical bushings wear because of the metal on metal design. It doesn't seem to affect the lower control arms nearly as much as the ones in the differential for the UCAs. One guy posted the ones in the differential lasted 30,000 miles before he needed to change them. I took mine out around 35,000-40,000 and they did show wear. He did not mention the LCAs. I've been running the UPR ProSeries LCAs for eight years and maybe 50,000-55,000 miles and they are still OK.
 

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I just finished my install of a Panhard bar and HD torque arm. tq arm springs and XD lcas. the car doesn't even feel like a mustang anymore. it doesnt squat.. it just goes! it has zero brake dive. and no binding in the rear suspension. it feels so strange being able to take turns like that in a mustang. the back end just follows wherever you point the car. no more snap over steer or that point before it where you feel the axle fighting what you are trying to do. hands down one of the best mods I have ever done.

HD Lcas will work with the standard Tq arm and Panhard bar
XD lcas work with the HD TQ arm and Panhard bar.

exhaust modifications required. if I had another mustang, I would definitely do this again.
 

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With the torque are you remove both upper control arms. Since the torque arm bolts to the subframe connectors under the front seats I've always been concerned about NVH. Personally in a daily driver I thought I got too much rear end noise from upper control arms with spherical bushings. How is the NVH with a torque arm?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
seems like there's too many options to chose from... so for a weekend car making about 430 rwhp I want a set of Solid UCA's or keep that stock ones so I can use a panhard bar and a set of LCA's with spherical bearings that are compatible with a panhard bar and a torque arm? Also if you do not have a flowmaster exhaust is there modification that will need to be done to the exhaust to fit the panhard bar? Is anyone running coil overs in the rear as well?
 

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A torque arm replaces the UCAs. You take them off to run it. Either of the LCAs in the links that I posted are sufficient for your application. The shop that installed my UPR ProSeries UCA/LCAs said that cars far faster then mine were running them. He built half backs and full frames for drag racing. He also welded up my torque boxes and axle tubes.

I do not believe you need a torque arm unless you are a serious competitor in road racing or autocross. I think that is overkill for a daily driver or a weekend street car. Those that had installed them before talked about serious increases in NVH. But NVH is subjective. It bothers some and not others.

You don't need a torque arm to run a panhard bar. Several years ago weekend warriors were putting in Bullitt springs and swaybars with panhard bars. FRPP no longer sells that package. Your coil overs are better than that anyway. I would suggest going with the FRPP UCAs and the panhard bar. If you want more later you can always add the torque arm.

The last thing you want to do is to over mod your car to the point you hate driving it. Several former members did. I almost did. I've only taken off two mods. I replaced the UCAs with spherical bushings and I replaced my Flowmaster mufflers. I learned to hate both.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah I don't want to get to the point where driving the car is something I don't enjoy. I just want it to stick to the ground better and corner better. Not planning on auto cross or anything like that. Far as coil overs on the rear, is that something I will regret doing ? I am doing it more for the look of lowering it but would not mind the benefits if there worth the money. I am a fan of my UPR's on the front .
 

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Discussion Starter #13
rear supsension

I just finished my install of a Panhard bar and HD torque arm. tq arm springs and XD lcas. the car doesn't even feel like a mustang anymore. it doesnt squat.. it just goes! it has zero brake dive. and no binding in the rear suspension. it feels so strange being able to take turns like that in a mustang. the back end just follows wherever you point the car. no more snap over steer or that point before it where you feel the axle fighting what you are trying to do. hands down one of the best mods I have ever done.

HD Lcas will work with the standard Tq arm and Panhard bar
XD lcas work with the HD TQ arm and Panhard bar.

exhaust modifications required. if I had another mustang, I would definitely do this again.

So I have been looking into the torque arm set up and have been seeing a lot of people liking them saying there worth every penny. Do you get a lot of NVH from yours? Also how difficult of an install is it? I was also reading that a the Pan hard bar is a requirement for having the torque arm and the Pan hard bar requires exhaust modification, doesn't it ?
 

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alright, so I finally have time to answer questions and give input.

yes it adds NVH, it is quieter than off road exhaust though. the thing to remember is that any imperfection in gears or tire balance, it transfers it into the car. so out of balance tires are annoying as ****(which I have). the poorly shimmed gears I have whine a bit, less annoying. but the vibrations aren't too bad in general. the floor of the car has a real mild vibration, not enough to notice unless you are actively thinking about it. the ride height cannot be slammed with a TQ arm if running day tires(I have 10.5 wheels with 315 r888.. which are like a 335 Mickey thomlson) my drivers rear tire was rubbing on the inner well., I added my rear isolators back in and registered the axle with the Panhard bar and it seems to have relieve the rubbing issue, and reduced noise.

the exhaust debacle for my mid pipe and the TQ arm crewmember is special since I am running an on3 setup with a 3"Y pipe to two 2.5" pipes. any competent welder can fix the midpipe and k member though. my buddy and i fixed the exhaust ourselves with his tig welder. the Panhard bar pipes were more challenging. I used LMR SVE polished SS tail pipes for a fox body. cut the hangars off. popped the last 10ish inches off the tips and clamped my bassani tips on. and cut the muffler out are of the pipes right at the bend. welded up they clear beautifully. those run $150. worth every penny. my bassani over axle pipes wouldn't be anywhere close to fitting. if you run a stock catback or a flowmaster catback you will clear fine.

the TQ arm squeaks a little not enough to be annoying

as for performance, the car no longer dances all over the place when I hit boost, it launches straight as an arrow. and it does not squat.. it just plantsyou in the seat and goes!! brake nose dive is pretty much eliminated. in fact the hole car seems to sit and lower when braking hard. the turns??? incredible. does not feel like a mustang anymore. it handles superbly. it inspires confidence to say the least.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So in the future if I want to do a torque arm, is coil overs out of the question? I just don't want to go out and buy coil overs if I am not gonna be able to use them in the future
 

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So in the future if I want to do a torque arm, is coil overs out of the question? I just don't want to go out and buy coil overs if I am not gonna be able to use them in the future
you can probably use rear coilovers with it, call maximum motorsports and ask
 
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