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02 GT dynoed at Ramsey's Performance in Lutz, FL. 261hp / 301tq.

I am fairly good with engines and did all the work myself. However, this is the first mustang I've modded and had dynoed. I was estimating to get around 280-290 with the few current mods I put on already. Built it for a daily driver, pending the repair of my other car.

Quick list of relevant parts (haven't finished my profile yet):
78mm BBK throttle-body/plenum
Stack CAI
Flowmaster Cat-back exhaust
SCT tuner
Stage 1 cams/springs
3:73 gears (the one part I paid to have installed)
Port-matched intake manifold and exhaust headers
Tuned for 93 octane.

I realize I probably have choke points at stock exhaust headers, downpipes and heads as well as, stock cats. I had many other plans such as, port/polish heads, long-tube headers, high-flow cats, and MAF just off the top of my head. A little dissapointed in the car's response so far and I am hesitant to spend the $$. From what I've seen on this site, members are getting 280/310 with less. Going to check the compression this week, car has only 60k miles. You guys have more experience than me with these engines, your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.
 

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Does the can have a manual or auto trans? Considering it has the stock manifolds and stock mid-pipe with all 6 cats I'm not that surprised. Besides you really shouldn't get too hung up on dyno numbers.
 

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All dynos read a bit different, but I think the numbers are probably about what I'd expect from a car that still has the stock midpipe on it. That was the first thing that came off of my car, and on a stock car, it was worth 8rwhp to change to an offroad X. I'd imagine that would be higher on a car with the mods you have as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Manual. Not too worried about numbers, just want to be sure I didn't screw something up, or overlook something. The car runs real strong, its tuned great. I'll finish the exhaust and see how she runs. Thanks.
 

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whats teh timing and a/f set at?

I would def swap the mid pipe, and stock exhaust manifolds for some long tubes if you have the money.
 

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4 cats, not 6 lol
 

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There were 6 on my 98 but I didn't know when they switched to 4 cat midpipe. Did you degree the cams when you put them in? Even with small aftermarket cams it can make a big difference.
 

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02 GT dynoed at Ramsey's Performance in Lutz, FL. 261hp / 301tq.

I am fairly good with engines and did all the work myself. However, this is the first mustang I've modded and had dynoed. I was estimating to get around 280-290 with the few current mods I put on already. Built it for a daily driver, pending the repair of my other car.

Quick list of relevant parts (haven't finished my profile yet):
78mm BBK throttle-body/plenum
Stack CAI
Flowmaster Cat-back exhaust
SCT tuner
Stage 1 cams/springs
3:73 gears (the one part I paid to have installed)
Port-matched intake manifold and exhaust headers
Tuned for 93 octane.

I realize I probably have choke points at stock exhaust headers, downpipes and heads as well as, stock cats. I had many other plans such as, port/polish heads, long-tube headers, high-flow cats, and MAF just off the top of my head. A little dissapointed in the car's response so far and I am hesitant to spend the $$. From what I've seen on this site, members are getting 280/310 with less. Going to check the compression this week, car has only 60k miles. You guys have more experience than me with these engines, your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.
Like these guys said, those numbers sound right. When you take the heads off to port/polish the heads, I'd ditch those stage 1 cams and go with the stage 2 for sure. Every cam company I've talked to said the Stage 1s are more just for the sound of cams and they don't do great things power-wise.

Exhaust would help you out a good bit too. Unless you're shooting for big numbers LTs aren't worth the work or money, the stock manifolds flow nicely. Get a nice mid (with your high flow cats if you want them) and that'll open up the exhuast as much as you'll need staying N/A.

You also don't need a new MAF, it won't do anything for you.
 

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the last gt i saw on the dyno with long tubes, off road H, cat back, cold air, underdrive pullies, and a tune put down 254rwhp @ 289 tq on a hot ass day. this dyno does read a little low compaired to other dynos in my area but the guy tunes really good.

 

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I've been on 4 different dynos in my area, all of which are Dynojets. If it was a properly calibrated Mustang dyno, the numbers would have been lower, but you can see just from 4 different dynos, I got significantly different numbers. These are with my current mods, except for the longtubes. They weren't installed yet, and I haven't dyno'd since I installed them.

Fastlane Motorsports: 266rwhp
Competition Auto: 269rwhp
Big Wood Racing: 259rwhp
Pro-Dyno: 278rwhp
 

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Like these guys said, those numbers sound right. When you take the heads off to port/polish the heads, I'd ditch those stage 1 cams and go with the stage 2 for sure. Every cam company I've talked to said the Stage 1s are more just for the sound of cams and they don't do great things power-wise.
I would say you talking to the wrong cam companies then. The "stage 1" cams will be fine. My buddy and I both have PI swapped 98's, his with 50K more miles than mine. Both have all the usual bolt ons including long tubes. He has VT stage 1s which you can barely hear and I have comp 270's On the same dyno with the same tuner he made 307 RWHP 315 ft-lbs. I made 301 RWHP and 292 ft-lbs.
 

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Open up the exhaust--2-1/2" X- or H-pipe (catted or not, doesn't really matter), and catback--you'll get another 10 to 15rwHP, maybe more.

I'm at 262/305 with basically the same mods (with the 2-1/2" exhaust), and the stock cams.

How did you tune it, what system?
 

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I would say new exhaust system and UD pulleys and you'll see a big difference.

Why did you get springs for a stage 1 cam?
 

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I would say new exhaust system and UD pulleys and you'll see a big difference.

Why did you get springs for a stage 1 cam?
I am not sure whose "stage 1" cams he has but just because they are "not required" doesn't mean he wouldn't benefit from something better than stock.
 

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Sounds about right for stock manifolds and midpipe. With longtubes, midpipe, and pulleys you'd be mid to high 280's, which is about right for a Stage 1 cam. Every dyno reads different. Someone above posted results from 4 different dyno's and you can see that there is a 19rwhp difference between the lowest and highest.
 

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I am not sure whose "stage 1" cams he has but just because they are "not required" doesn't mean he wouldn't benefit from something better than stock.
Sure it is his choice to change the springs, but it doesn't necessarily mean there will be a benefit. The reason why springs are not required with the cam is because it doesn't make anymore power past a certain rpm, and the specs just don't call for an upgraded spring. The power probably peaks before or around 6,000rpms, which the stock springs can more than handle.
 
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