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ExPeNsIvE HoBbY
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1,920 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys I know this one has probably come up a million times... I'll start off by saying for some reason my autoguide WILL NOT let me perform a search and I have contacted them about it to no avail.

I have google searched this topic NUMEROUS times and only found a bunch of useless banter.

So I need some really hard facts on this job. A few things I am unsure of:

1. It seems like an easy job: remove wheels, disks, calipers, loosen sway bar end links, jack under spindle, loosen bolts, let down gently, remove ISO's, repeat in opposite order... Is there anything I've missed? Something special to look out for?

2. Will this lowering mod adversely affect handling? I have Eibach Pro Kit, MM XL FLSFC's, and a "McKinnon Industries Rear Strut Tower Brace" on my car and it really handles great. I can take turns SCARY FAST without any warning signs of problems, no snap oversteer, no pushing in corners, great turn in etc. for the setup I have it works SURPRISINGLY well. Just don't wanna mess up something that works well just for looks.

3. I have seen that on a stock set of springs you can expect about 1/2" of drop by removing top and bottom ISO's. can I expect the same with the prokit?

4. I don't have my big toolbox at home, so my garage tools are limited. Can anyone tell me what tools I will need(specifically wrench and socket sizes) to complete the job?

Thank you all in advance very much!


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ExPeNsIvE HoBbY
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1,920 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
How to Install Lowering Springs on your 1999-2004 Mustang GT - Free Shipping!

Good guide to follow. Lists out all the tools you'll need too. And I highly doubt it will take 4 hours. In an hour, me and a buddy pulled my front struts off, pulled the springs, cut a set of '01 Cobra springs, and put it all back together in like an hour. Of course an impact gun works wonders.
Sweet, thank you. Ya I've got an IR impact and a Matco impact at work, both 1/2" guns, but key words there "at work" lol. Ratchet and wrenches it is lol


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Wanna be show worthy.
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11,838 Posts
Do not use an impact gun. Absolutely no reason for it. This job took me roughly 40min to do both fronts. The rear I have not done but my buddy did and said it was way easier then the front. Basically take wheels off, calipers, etc and rip the spring the **** out. Then use some electrical tape or air conditioning tape to wrap just 1 coil on the front and bottom then lube the **** out of it with some grease. Pop it back in and boom done.

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Wanna be show worthy.
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If you have any questions pm me with your number and I can walk you through it. Honestly you should have no problem though.

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ExPeNsIvE HoBbY
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks fellow modestan lol. I've done A LOT of automotive repairs. Lifting trucks, slamming trucks, shaving whole body lines, clutch jobs, top ends, etc, but I'm new to the suspension on these cars and wanna b prepared


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ExPeNsIvE HoBbY
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Discussion Starter #8
Just make sure that when you re install the spring the lower pig tail sits just clear of the vent hole in the lower control arm. I put electrical tape and some suspension grease on both ends when I removed my iso from the rear to prevent NVH.
Ur talking about the big end of the spring, making sure the end of the coil end sits in the divot on the LCA?


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Registered
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I like this write up.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/267834-installing-coil-springs-how.html


FWIW, I run with no iso's, wrapped in electrical tape. They were quite at first, but after a few months I am getting some creaks and noises.

I plan to buy some thin polyurethane tubing from a hardware store and use it for iso's. I think it will add a lot less height than regular iso's without introducing any noise.
 

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ExPeNsIvE HoBbY
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Discussion Starter #11
I like this write up.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/267834-installing-coil-springs-how.html


FWIW, I run with no iso's, wrapped in electrical tape. They were quite at first, but after a few months I am getting some creaks and noises.

I plan to buy some thin polyurethane tubing from a hardware store and use it for iso's. I think it will add a lot less height than regular iso's without introducing any noise.
I could care less about NVH. Why?

Because racecar!


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Wanna be show worthy.
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Thanks fellow modestan lol. I've done A LOT of automotive repairs. Lifting trucks, slamming trucks, shaving whole body lines, clutch jobs, top ends, etc, but I'm new to the suspension on these cars and wanna b prepared


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:drink

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Zippy Zip Custom \/
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1,167 Posts
I only got a 1/4" of drop on the passenger's side when I pulled my isolaters out. Really wasn't worth it to me. For some reason the driver's side was worn completely through. Just a heads up for you, because I think that a 1/2" might be a little unrealistic if you are running the stock isos.
 

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Anandavenkatakrishnan
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21,386 Posts
So I need some really hard facts on this job. A few things I am unsure of:

1. It seems like an easy job: remove wheels, disks, calipers, loosen sway bar end links, jack under spindle, loosen bolts, let down gently, remove ISO's, repeat in opposite order... Is there anything I've missed? Something special to look out for?

2. Will this lowering mod adversely affect handling? I have Eibach Pro Kit, MM XL FLSFC's, and a "McKinnon Industries Rear Strut Tower Brace" on my car and it really handles great. I can take turns SCARY FAST without any warning signs of problems, no snap oversteer, no pushing in corners, great turn in etc. for the setup I have it works SURPRISINGLY well. Just don't wanna mess up something that works well just for looks.

3. I have seen that on a stock set of springs you can expect about 1/2" of drop by removing top and bottom ISO's. can I expect the same with the prokit?

4. I don't have my big toolbox at home, so my garage tools are limited. Can anyone tell me what tools I will need(specifically wrench and socket sizes) to complete the job?

Thank you all in advance very much!


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1. You don't need to remove the brakes...Just take the the wheels off and jack up under the a arm. Then go up top and unbolt the strut tower. Then lower the jack and pry the spring out. Easy as pie after you do it a millino times :)

2. The pro kit isn't too low. Lowering it more will be fine. Just don't lower more then 2 inches on springs. If you want to go more, get coilovers. Regardless, you're suspension geometry will be screwed when you go really low.

3. Depending on what type of isos you have, yes, .5 inches is negotiable.

4. You need just a simple jack, jack stands, and a ratchet set. Maybe a pry bar.

You welcome :)
 

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ExPeNsIvE HoBbY
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1,920 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
1. You don't need to remove the brakes...Just take the the wheels off and jack up under the a arm. Then go up top and unbolt the strut tower. Then lower the jack and pry the spring out. Easy as pie after you do it a millino times :)

2. The pro kit isn't too low. Lowering it more will be fine. Just don't lower more then 2 inches on springs. If you want to go more, get coilovers. Regardless, you're suspension geometry will be screwed when you go really low.

3. Depending on what type of isos you have, yes, .5 inches is negotiable.

4. You need just a simple jack, jack stands, and a ratchet set. Maybe a pry bar.

You welcome :)
Lol thanks


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ExPeNsIvE HoBbY
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1,920 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Well I removed the ISO's with my buddy. Rear took about 15mins total, and front took about 30mins. Super easy job, super easy. Don't know why I was worried lol.

Drop wasn't nearly as much as I had expected, but I'm sure the springs have some re-settling to do. To my surprise the ISO's were not broke down and smashed, actually they looked almost brand new. Still very thick and fresh black rubber look to them.

After finishing I had a nice even 5/16" drop all the way around, although after a quick test drive, it appears the front is ever so slightly lower than the rear.

I'll post pics tomorrow


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BTM AutoSport
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2,710 Posts
Well I removed the ISO's with my buddy. Rear took about 15mins total, and front took about 30mins. Super easy job, super easy. Don't know why I was worried lol.

Drop wasn't nearly as much as I had expected, but I'm sure the springs have some re-settling to do. To my surprise the ISO's were not broke down and smashed, actually they looked almost brand new. Still very thick and fresh black rubber look to them.

After finishing I had a nice even 5/16" drop all the way around, although after a quick test drive, it appears the front is ever so slightly lower than the rear.

I'll post pics tomorrow


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keep in mind the springs will resettle, so it may even get lower. I helped my buddy with his bullitt today and removed his iso's. the rear sits perfect but the front is too high. I'm hoping it settles, if not I'll be cutting half a dead coil off the fronts next week.
 

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ExPeNsIvE HoBbY
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1,920 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
keep in mind the springs will resettle, so it may even get lower. I helped my buddy with his bullitt today and removed his iso's. the rear sits perfect but the front is too high. I'm hoping it settles, if not I'll be cutting half a dead coil off the fronts next week.
A dead coil I'd imagine is part of the spring that doesn't actually compress?

Like a rigid portion to give th spring its overall length?


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Anandavenkatakrishnan
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21,386 Posts
Pics of the new stance.

Also, what tire sizes are you running?
 

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ExPeNsIvE HoBbY
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1,920 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Pics of the new stance.

Also, what tire sizes are you running?
I'll get pics tomorrow when I can get good lighting in front of my house. Too late and too dark now. My garage is lit up like a surgery room but I don't have the space to get a good full car shot.

My rims are I BELIEVE 16x7.5", stock 05-09 10 spoke deals, with 205/55R16 all 4 corners right now. Looking to get prolly a staggered set of black Drifts 18x9(.5) up front and 18x10(.5) out back with probably 275 on the front and 315-335 out back. Not decided yet...


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