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Not necessarily. The only factory adjustment is tow, castor and camber are not adjustable.

Are you still on factory springs or are you lowering the car? Lowering the car will result in more negative camber. You can add back in about 1.5 degrees of camber by installing the upper mounts 180 degrees out. Look for the arrow on the top of the mount and point it toward the engine instead of the fender.

Also, Firestone stores will check your alignment for free.

---------- Post added at 08:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:00 PM ----------

A word of caution- those springs can be deadly. I have access to a shop with a nice spring compressor machine to safely assemble the front struts. This is not child's play. There are shortcuts that can work but some of them are insanely dangerous.
 

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gtscrewd
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Discussion Starter #3
Wow thanks for the heads up on the compressor part. I've already had eaibach pro kit springs and had it lined up then so it should be good. I bought the 14.99 dollar spring compressor at harbor freight I'm a little sketchy on it now though
 

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Just don't go compressing the springs with your kid standing there next to you. Use common sense and if the compressor looks or feels like it might break then stop.

If you're running the Eibach springs then definitely turn the upper mounts so the arrow points toward the engine.
 

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gtscrewd
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Discussion Starter #5
Just don't go compressing the springs with your kid standing there next to you. Use common sense and if the compressor looks or feels like it might break then stop.

If you're running the Eibach springs then definitely turn the upper mounts so the arrow points toward the engine.
Thanks

---------- Post added at 09:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:15 PM ----------

If I'm happy with the way the cars lined up now , wouldn't I want to have the arrows on the new mounts facing the same way as the ones coming out?
 

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If you like the alignment then mount them the same way you have them now. If you can avoid clocking the struts, don't. That can lead to premature wear and then they might start all too familiar popping.

With ProKit springs you don't have to use the compressor thingies. Those things scare me. Jack the car up by the frame. Support the a-arm with your jack. Undo the center strut bolt leaving the four mount bolts attached. Lower the a-arm slowly, releasing the tension on the spring. Undo the upper spindle bolt while holding the rotor. There may be some outward pressure when you remove the bolt and if your not careful it may swing out and catch you on the lip. Let the spindle swing down and there shouldn't be any more tension on the spring. Continue to remove the strut from the spindle and it should all drop out at this point, spring and all. Then unbolt the mount and let it fall out. Then bolt up the upper mount by itself. Put the spring on the strut and lift it into the strut tower and attach the bottom spindle bolt. Rotate the spindle and rotor up making sure your spring is lined up with both the upper and lower spring perches. Install the upper spindle bolt. Then jack the a-arm back up making sure the spring is still aligned properly and the strut rod feeds nicely through the hole in the upper mount. Then attach the center rod bolt on top of the mount.

Trust me, I swapped my springs 4 times a year until I went with my CJ springs, and it is the easiest, and to me, the safest way to do it.
 
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gtscrewd
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Discussion Starter #7
If you like the alignment then mount them the same way you have them now. If you can avoid clocking the struts, don't. That can lead to premature wear and then they might start all too familiar popping.

With ProKit springs you don't have to use the compressor thingies. Those things scare me. Jack the car up by the frame. Support the a-arm with your jack. Undo the center strut bolt leaving the four mount bolts attached. Lower the a-arm slowly, releasing the tension on the spring. Undo the upper spindle bolt while holding the rotor. There may be some outward pressure when you remove the bolt and if your not careful it may swing out and catch you on the lip. Let the spindle swing down and there shouldn't be any more tension on the spring. Continue to remove the strut from the spindle and it should all drop out at this point, spring and all. Then unbolt the mount and let it fall out. Then bolt up the upper mount by itself. Put the spring on the strut and lift it into the strut tower and attach the bottom spindle bolt. Rotate the spindle and rotor up making sure your spring is lined up with both the upper and lower spring perches. Install the upper spindle bolt. Then jack the a-arm back up making sure the spring is still aligned properly and the strut rod feeds nicely through the hole in the upper mount. Then attach the center rod bolt on top of the mount.

Trust me, I swapped my springs 4 times a year until I went with my CJ springs, and it is the easiest, and to me, the safest way to do it.

I think I'll give that a shot. Awesome info as always
 

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I think I'll give that a shot. Awesome info as always
Technically, if all you are changing is the struts and mounts, you shouldn't need an alignment although it wouldn't hurt to have the toe checked just in case though.
 

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gtscrewd
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5,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
If you like the alignment then mount them the same way you have them now. If you can avoid clocking the struts, don't. That can lead to premature wear and then they might start all too familiar popping.

With ProKit springs you don't have to use the compressor thingies. Those things scare me. Jack the car up by the frame. Support the a-arm with your jack. Undo the center strut bolt leaving the four mount bolts attached. Lower the a-arm slowly, releasing the tension on the spring. Undo the upper spindle bolt while holding the rotor. There may be some outward pressure when you remove the bolt and if your not careful it may swing out and catch you on the lip. Let the spindle swing down and there shouldn't be any more tension on the spring. Continue to remove the strut from the spindle and it should all drop out at this point, spring and all. Then unbolt the mount and let it fall out. Then bolt up the upper mount by itself. Put the spring on the strut and lift it into the strut tower and attach the bottom spindle bolt. Rotate the spindle and rotor up making sure your spring is lined up with both the upper and lower spring perches. Install the upper spindle bolt. Then jack the a-arm back up making sure the spring is still aligned properly and the strut rod feeds nicely through the hole in the upper mount. Then attach the center rod bolt on top of the mount.

Trust me, I swapped my springs 4 times a year until I went with my CJ springs, and it is the easiest, and to me, the safest way to do it.
Ed when I put the new mount in do I tighten it all the way up? And then put every thing else up thru?
 

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Ed when I put the new mount in do I tighten it all the way up? And then put every thing else up thru?
I leave mine a little loose just because you might have to jiggle it a little as the strut rod goes through. It doesn't quite line up straight sometimes and the tip can get hung up a little. But I've done it both ways. Just check the torque after the spring is seated and the weight of the car is on it. Be sure to make sure the end of the coil is seated in the right spot. Getting the bottom of the mount lined up with the spring properly is key.
 

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gtscrewd
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Discussion Starter #12
Worked like a charm boss and I was actually able to put the whole assembly back together out side the car and pop the whole assembly back in. Thanks again
 

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Oh yeah forgot you can do that too. When I swapped my springs all the time I was using the same mount so I would just leave it on the car. If you ever switch back to stock springs or anything much less of a drop than ProKit springs you can't put them together off the car without the compressor thingies. Anyways, glad I could make it a little easier. I think it works much better than trying to compress the spring with those scary spring compressors.
 
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