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Discussion Starter #1
Today I finally put some new parts in. I dropped the transmission Sunday. Had the flywheel resurfaced today and put the new clutch fork, pivot ball, TOB, and pilot bearing in. Waiting on the clutch to go in.

Few questions before I put the clutch and trans back in...

Should I grease up the TOB with extra grease? It has a good amount of grease on it, but I thought I would ask to be sure?

I bought all new bellhousing bolts because the ones that were in it were over torqued by the shop that put my last clutch in.

What are the torque specs of the pressure plate? (I read between 12-24ft-lbs, just want to double check)
What are the torque specs of the bellhousing bolts? (I read 38 ft-lbs for all except the bottom 2 bolts, and those were 20ft-lb, is this correct?)


Oh, and the last clutch installed was a Valeo cobra clutch, with CHINA TOB and Pilot bearings :( Only lasted 2 years.

The fingers on the pressure plate were pretty beat up too. What causes this? They were bent in towards the motor pretty bad.

And the shop I had change it last didn't replace the clutch fork or the pivot ball. This is the results (Remember the pivot ball/stud SHOULD be round, it is now FLAT on one side :O)


 

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Head Unicorn
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The TOB should be packed well enough. I like to apply a small amount of grease over the input shaft nose, splines and collar where the TOB rides. Other than that no grease needed. Torque specs are gudentight. Torque specs are more or less to make sure you have tightened somthing enough... so it doesn't back out. Use Loctite and tighten them. I only use a torque wrench when assembling a motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The TOB should be packed well enough. I like to apply a small amount of grease over the input shaft nose, splines and collar where the TOB rides. Other than that no grease needed. Torque specs are gudentight. Torque specs are more or less to make sure you have tightened somthing enough... so it doesn't back out. Use Loctite and tighten them. I only use a torque wrench when assembling a motor.
But I don't want to overtighten them.They were a bitch to get off and almost rounded all the bolts off trying to get them off.
 

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I used some emery cloth and cleaned up the tob sleeve that it rides on. Then put a small film on it the pivot ball tob retainer and used the supplied grease in the clutch kit to lubricate the input splines. you don't really have to torque the bellhousing bolts but the pressure plate and flywheel i defiantly would. the flywheel needs to be tightened in a star pattern. Do it right the first time! your not working flat rate at some shop so no need to hack up your own car.
 

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Head Unicorn
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But I don't want to overtighten them.They were a bitch to get off and almost rounded all the bolts off trying to get them off.
I'm not calling you incompetent when I say this.... rounded off bolts are typically due to using the wrong tools or methods. Bellhousing needs to be tightened... I can't tell you how many bellhousing bolts I've removed and installed in my life and never once have I used a torque wrench. Flywheel, I use an impact wrench and experience to tighten them properly. I've also done flywheels with a ratchet and a socket, just tighten them with some common sense and they'll be tight enough but won't snap in half.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm not calling you incompetent when I say this.... rounded off bolts are typically due to using the wrong tools or methods. Bellhousing needs to be tightened... I can't tell you how many bellhousing bolts I've removed and installed in my life and never once have I used a torque wrench. Flywheel, I use an impact wrench and experience to tighten them properly. I've also done flywheels with a ratchet and a socket, just tighten them with some common sense and they'll be tight enough but won't snap in half.
I was using about 2 foot of extension and a socket for the top bolts and they came out after busting up my knuckles pretty good. They rounded a little but the main ones that rounded off were the 3 on the drivers side of the tranny. They were crazy tight and I had to use a long breaker bar to get them off. Replacing them and I'll follow your advise and just tighten them down really good. I've already torqued the flywheel bolts down in a star pattern to the recommended specs in the chilton manual.
 

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Head Unicorn
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Are you using a universal joint adapter or a universal socket for the tight angles? This will prevent the rounding off. Hope it all works out and goes back together without a hitch!
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Are you using a universal joint adapter or a universal socket for the tight angles? This will prevent the rounding off. Hope it all works out and goes back together without a hitch!
I did. Its the only way I could get to the bolts. I managed to get it all apart, it will be easier putting it back together now that I know how to get to all the starter bolts and those top bolts. Thanks for the help!
 

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Head Unicorn
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By the way..... don't put the top starter bolt back in. The bottom and side bolt will be plenty and you'll never have to struggle with that top bastard again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
By the way..... don't put the top starter bolt back in. The bottom and side bolt will be plenty and you'll never have to struggle with that top bastard again.
I was going to put it back in. My hands are small enough to get in there and start it, and a 3/8 ratchet with a small extension fits up there fine. Literally took 5 minutes to get out once I figured out I could get the ratchet in there. Took an hour trying with swivels before I realized I could get the ratchet in there though. :facepalm:
 

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Head Unicorn
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It's not that it's that hard to get in or out in my opinion.... and it's your car so if you want it back in, then by all means it should go back in! However, there's really no need for three. That's one of the places I look to see if a Mustang is a virgin.... if it's missing the top starter bolt someone has worked on it (because 9 out of 10 of us refuse to replace it. We don't all have small hands like you lol. This makes me think of the Burger King commercial with the guy with small hands!
 

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It's not that it's that hard to get in or out in my opinion.... and it's your car so if you want it back in, then by all means it should go back in! However, there's really no need for three. That's one of the places I look to see if a Mustang is a virgin.... if it's missing the top starter bolt someone has worked on it (because 9 out of 10 of us refuse to replace it. We don't all have small hands like you lol. This makes me think of the Burger King commercial with the guy with small hands!
LOL^. It took me hours to get that effing thing out and it stayed out.
 
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