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Let me just say..most DIYs on retrofit are CRAP. I don't know maybe I didn't find the right ones, but the ones I found...all they have is pictures and not much description.

This took two days and that was me rushing. I was fortunate to have some good friends come over and really expedite the process.

If you have the money to buy them already retrofitted or '13 headlights, I say go for it. I am the kind of person that tells people to do it themselves but man....this was intense.



It started out with my girlfriend getting me some HIDs for my birthday. I'm glad she didn't get me one of those 30 dollar ones that'd probably break or that wouldn't be bright. I didn't know brand names had an effect on how bright the HIDs could be.




The projector I used was Bi-xenon: Morimoto Mini H1 5.0. I love the look of the '13 headlights and this projector looked very similar. Plus I don't like the look of HIDs in reflective housings. I got it for 160 but they were selling it for 90 on black friday :/ but I'm just glad it's on.



Had to take off the bumper in order to take out the headlights. As long as you have the right tools and know where the bolts are, it should take no more than 15 minutes. No jacking up or taking wheels off needed.

Inspect the headlights for any kind of rubber or anything that would melt in the oven. I didn't go the dremel route even tho I am sure it's a lot quicker. I would have had to borrow one but I knew I wasn't skilled enough to use it to open the headlights. If I remember correctly, I don't remember taking anything off other than the bulbs and the red ring around the bulb.

Baking headlights is PITA. You will find many videos on youtube and DIYs on the internet on how to bake but trust me, it ain't gonna be easy as they make it look. At least for our headlights. For some reason on these newer models, Ford decided to put super caulk that would not melt. At least at the temperature that is safe for the headlight.



As for what temperature and how long, I will say 240 (make sure it's on BAKE) and 12 minutes.

Now I repeated this process almost 10 times for each headlight. It could have been my inexperience with how to pry the headlight open but even when I had a friend (has '12 v6 stang and had done this before) come in and help....we had to bake it several times. But I don't recommend doing 12 minutes everytime. Maybe after the first time, you can do in increments of 5 minutes.

The question is, how many times is needed? that depends on you. If you feel like the silicone has hardened while you are working on it, then you need to bake it again.

I thought I was damaging the headlight when trying to pry it open, when really, I was "damaging" the black caulk Ford used to seal the headlight. Nevertheless, I have chips in multiple places and I even ended up breaking some of the plastic part where it's used to hold the headlights when you bolt it on the car.

Just make sure you are careful with it when trying to pry it open because you are gonna need to a lot strength but you don't want to break any tabs or latches. I recommend flatheads (I used various kinds of flatheads). You are really going to have to dig in between the black plastic and the clear plastic. I would say this is the hardest and most time consuming part if you are not using dremel.

*Make sure when you do take the headlights apart, while it's still hot, make sure get the remainder black caulk off the seams because it's gonna be PITA to take it off later. Why do you need to do this? so that when you put it back together, it fits well. If you forget this step and you have caulk all over, this will be another long process.

After you take it apart, there will be a black plastic trim/cover sitting on top of the housing. There are about 5(?) tabs holding it together. I took it off and I took off the orange pieces because I wanted to put switchbacks in there. If you like how they are orange, then you don't need to take it off. I've heard some people used soldering iron to take it off but I just broke the black plastic/caulk (?) holding it with a flathead and with enough force, it can be easily taken out.

Before you put in the projector, you probably want to black out the stock housing. It 'll just look funny with the chrome. Just use a primer and black paint (I used flat black) to paint it. When it's dry, put in the projector with the little pieces they provide in the box.



They don't provide any instructions but it's pretty straight forward. Just use your common sense to attach it. A few things I do recommend is make sure you don't strip the three screws that is going to hold the projector to the headlight.

When I was trying out the HID bulb in the projector, I was surprise how tight it is. It barely fits in there. It's also a little tricky to figure out how to keep the bulb tight but again, just use all the pieces they give you with the projector.

The switchbacks I originally ordered was from here:
2010+ Ford Mustang R-Tech Switchback (Dual Color) LED Bulbs [18 (2)] : HID Kit and Aftermarket car Lighting specialist-HIDGuy.Net

But it was gonna take too long so I decided to just buy at a local store (where my girlfriend bought the HID kit). I bought a resistor too because I didn't want to have to deal with hyperflashing in the future. You just gotta use the splicer they give you and splice it with the outer wires in the three wires connected to the turn signal harness.

We were going to use black caulk to seal it up but Wal Mart didn't have any black ones and since it was Thanksgiving, no other stores were open. I just used clear caulk. This step is important because you don't want to halfass it and you get condensation in the future.

This is the finished product:









The switchbacks don't really match with the HIDs but I am sure you can get the right temperature to match it. I heard some people having their housings partially melt over time with 55w or anything higher so I just stayed with the HIDs I got.
 

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NICE, good write up too man...thanks
 

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Want Camels?
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amazing work, I know many people asked for such a thing
 

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That looks great... Way better than the OEM HIDs IMHO. How is the light output?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone!!

@Danman0469,

I'm actually going to be work on it today when it get slightly dark to make sure my cutoffs are perfect. Just the thought of opening the headlights back up scared me but I found out you can just adjust it with the blue knob looking thing on the back side of the headlight.

Last night was the first night driving with the HIDs and while it is bright enough, it just wasn't going far enough. I just have to raise the height like I mentioned. I will let you know how the cutoff turns out.
 

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I like it! Good job! I'm to scared to do it. I'd like to though as I'm also to tight to pay the cost if having it done.

I wonder if the eBay $150 cheapies are as difficult to open?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
@5bites,

when you say $150 cheapies, do you mean OEM ones? Well either way, I wouldn't know...I highly doubt it.

The thing is my friend that came over to help..when he did it on his stang, his first one took a long time like mine but the second one took him just one try. He knew exactly which temperature to do and for how long. I did that for my 2nd one and it still took a long time to take apart. :/ I'm sorry if this is not good enough of an answer.


Couple of things I forgot to mention in the first post:
*Make sure you clean the inside before putting everything back together. Don't use anything fancy, not even SOAP. Just get microfiber towels and use water. You don't even need that much water. Now when you clean the housing for the turn signal, you might see some "scratches" or marks. If you try to clean it, you will make it worse. Just leave it as it is. You won't be able to see it anyway.
*You will probably have to adjust the cutoff height because I am having to do it. I used 8mm with a wrench and just turned it clockwise. I drove after the adjustment, it was better but I will probably raise it a little bit more.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here's the pic of the "blue knob" I was talking about. You don't actually adjust the blue knob. There is a yellowish looking plastic piece where you can fit 8mm:

 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm sorry for such a late reply. Did not see this until now.

In the description, it says it is made with OEM materials so I am going to assume it's not gonna be easy to open. If you are gonna buy them and retrofit, why not just keep the stock ones so if you decide to sell the car or something, you can put them back on?
 

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This is sick, Love all types of retrofits because you get white light on the road and a blue/white flicker effect from different angles. Beats those cheap 8k & 10k blue bulbs in reflectors that burn through your your eyes cornea and pupil.
 

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Don't BAAAAH 'Til Goatsday
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I have to save this thread. Right after the new year this is what i'm going to do. OEM head lights are way to expensive.
 

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Nicely done. I'm going to have to do this when I get back to the states.
 
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