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Discussion Starter #1
Car started knocking the other day and has got much worse. I guess my question is what is my best option? Trying to stay as cost friendly as possibly. This was a really powerful motor and I hate that this happened. Car has PI swap, 60 lb injectors, c&l intake plenum and throttle body, bored .030 over, powerdyne supercharger, steed fuel rails, o/r x-pipe, etc. etc. I was thinking it may be best to swap for a Mark VII DOHC motor? So give me some options and around what price it would cost.
 

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Car started knocking the other day and has got much worse. I guess my question is what is my best option? Trying to stay as cost friendly as possibly. This was a really powerful motor and I hate that this happened. Car has PI swap, 60 lb injectors, c&l intake plenum and throttle body, bored .030 over, powerdyne supercharger, steed fuel rails, o/r x-pipe, etc. etc. I was thinking it may be best to swap for a Mark VII DOHC motor? So give me some options and around what price it would cost.
If you dont want anymore power i would just invest in a good forged short block just to have a good piece of mind. If your going to boost a DOHC motor your going to break it eventually again anyways.. You going to have to spend a decent buck on one though.
You could reuse your block and throw these in there but that would still cost you over 2 grand http://modularmustangracing.com.tempwebsite.net/cartgenie/prodInfo.asp?pid=296&cid=1
Maybe Go for a newer stock PI motor? having lower compression will probably help you maintain more reliability.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, I really don't know what to do. I would like to keep the supercharger, but I dk. I'm trying to upload a video so you all can hear it.
 

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Thanks, I really don't know what to do. I would like to keep the supercharger, but I dk. I'm trying to upload a video so you all can hear it.
Well it all depends on how much money you want to throw at it. A stock motor can last almost as long boosted as an N/A motor if its done safely. Theres plenty of people on here that have had thier blowers on for a really long time.

Just get a GOOD tune
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'd like to stay under $1,500. There's a good looking 4.6 out of a 2004 Mustang on eBay for $1,295 with just 54k miles plus $250 shipping. Then there's a salvage yard around 80 miles away with a 2003 4.6l with 76k. Would it be best to just rebuild the bottom end?
 

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I'd like to stay under $1,500. There's a good looking 4.6 out of a 2004 Mustang on eBay for $1,295 with just 54k miles plus $250 shipping. Then there's a salvage yard around 80 miles away with a 2003 4.6l with 76k. Would it be best to just rebuild the bottom end?
Both would probably be okay those are pretty low mile motors. But if you wanted the peace of mind i would for sure do all the seals and put in new rings and bearings.

Wait for some other to chime in they are alot more knowledgeable then i am. I have very little experience with boosted V8's, I've only ever worked on turbo 4cylinders when it comes to boosted stuff.
 

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I would just rebuild the bottom end, but most likely your rods are ok. To have someone regrind crank and put in new bearings would cost about $1500, id say
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would just rebuild the bottom end, but most likely your rods are ok. To have someone regrind crank and put in new bearings would cost about $1500, id say
I just don't know of a good shop I can trust around my area.
 

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I just don't know of a good shop I can trust around my area.
I understand your pain. I myself got shafted by one guy, cost me ~$2000, a very expensive lesson. Sometimes it takes a while to find good, honest, knowledgeable mustang guys
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah most shops around here work with mining equipment, there are a select few that are a couple hours away that do engine work and I don't know much about them. I'd love to be able to get this motor rebuilt though, it's so powerful and pulls hard.
If I get another block I'm definitely going to miss my bore. I would probably just go with a 99 and up engine with heads to prevent the hassle of swapping my PI heads and intake, plus they all seem to have lower miles than the non PI engines.
I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter whether the motor came off an auto or manual, is this correct? Also the 2004 motor seems to have a different ignition, no coils, just wiring going straight to the plugs, will I need a different wiring harness?
 

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If you plan on keeping the car I would get a built short block (forged) (or rebuild yours) but if you think you will be trading or selling in a short period I would go with the best used one and pray.
Your harness can be reworked to run a PI motor(concerning the COPs) But might be easier and look better to get a 99-04 harness. All depends on if you feel like tackling the wiring. I dont think its hard at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If you plan on keeping the car I would get a built short block (forged) (or rebuild yours) but if you think you will be trading or selling in a short period I would go with the best used one and pray.
Your harness can be reworked to run a PI motor(concerning the COPs) But might be easier and look better to get a 99-04 harness. All depends on if you feel like tackling the wiring. I dont think its hard at all.
Thanks, I want to trade sell the car in a couple months and get a new edge so I'm going to try to get a low mileage 99+ engine.


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im doing a lincoln mark 8 swap on my car right now, i got the whole car wrecked for $550 and the motor is like a STUPID easy swap and im throwing a 96-98 cobra plenum on top but if i ran a lincoln intake it would almost be a free swap cause you can sell the rear and scrap the shell for almost that, that is if you get the whole car

AND from what ive heard guy are puttin down 276 to the wheel on the 4v vs 215 at the flywheel so it speaks for itself
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I've found a ton of 4.6's within a couple hours drive, but they're all high mileage.
Hopefully I'll be able to sell my old PI heads, intake, bored block, etc. after buying a new PI motor or 4v.
 
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