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around 450 or so is about the limit for a 4v it seems.
 

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Is the block weak and could you just put cobra rods, and pistons in?
The stock pistons and rods are the weak point. You can put a set of 03 manley rods in it along with a quality aftermarket piston. The 03 pistons are sized by each bore in the 03 block and are not worth putting in another engine.

The mach aluminum block is not quite as strong as the 93-01 Teksid blocks, but will not be the weak point in most builds. Many have made ove 800rwhp without a failure with a WAP block.
 

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Retired MM Ninjas
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Mine let go at around 4xxish I think. I had a p&p'd intake, full boltons, suspension, and a tuned 150 shot. I didn't much care about hp numbers back then.
 

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MM's Orangest
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^Based on what your mods are (if LTs are included in "full bolt-ons" you were probably putting down anywhere from 320 to 340 before the 150 shot. Throw that on top and you are at a minimum of 470 lol.
 

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Priest of the Car Gods
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Is the block weak and could you just put cobra rods, and pistons in?
Shortblock has cast internals unless it's from a manual car, in which case the crank is forged.

Near as I know, all new edge Mach 1s used the WAP aluminum block, which is considerably weaker than both the older Teskid aluminum block and newer Aluminator aluminum block.

If you're going through the effort, I'd replace the shortblock entirely with one of the above aluminum blocks as a base. If you're cool with an additional 80+ lbs on the nose of your car, you could also go with the iron block found in the 2v motors or the Termie shortblock (advantage to the termie being fully forged internals from the factory). If you go with a 2v block, I'd keep your Mach crank, assuming it's a 5-speed car.
 

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450
 

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MM's Orangest
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question, so after u build the short block do you have to worry about the valves, spring, ect.....?
Short block is the crank, rods, and pistons. When people say long block it includes the short block and everything in the heads (springs, valves, rocker arms, cams, ect.)
 
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