My take on this is that it's dependant on your goals, wants, and needs. Some like having a motor they can run hard all day without worry and some like to have as much power as technology can afford them no matter what the cost. Some like to have streetable power, while some want the fastest thing in the racing circuit or on the dragstrip. You do what you can afford, what you want, and what your driving habits dictate. Personally, I don't want a thousand ponies under the hood...I'll get myself killed and it would scare the hell out of me, to be honest. I am looking at multi-purpose useage, so I need something that I can rely on for a DD, something that has ample power for entertainment at the dragstrip from time-to-time, and something that can take a road course for fun on rare occasion. Maybe I ask too much, but maybe I don't and an N/A motor seems to be the best idea for all three, as I can build it specific to the duty I want it to perform. This being said, I'm building the foundation of the car first...suspension, driveline, etc. Do what makes ya happy, and if you want to do something different, do it right and do it the best!
SC vs N/A
The KB kit running 9psi intercolled is right at 5K now would that be cheaper than goin N/A and parting and polishing along with boring and buying cams and heads? I know that the trick flow heads are like 2K and the comp cams I was looking at are 600 I don't know what it would cost for a machine shop to bore my motor out so has anyone done this?? and for installation I know that would be pretty pricey?? Also has anyone bought the KB 2.1 and installed it themselves??
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Sweet thanks for the input. I want my car to stay as my DD but, I like the idea of one peice bolt on to get me over 400. I can keep that DD still with the KB2.1 so I will prolly sit on it some more.
How much lighter is the 05+ block. I didn't know that they were lighter.I am building my 3V to swap and going KB 2.6. The 2.1 on the stock 2V was great but I like the weight reduction of the 05+ block. Couple that with my tubular K member and the front end will be significantly lighter. Cant wait
99-04 GT block is an iron block. 2005+ 4.6's are aluminum and are the strongest produced aluminum 4.6 block. Dont quote me but I think the weight reduction was in the neighborhood of 60 lbs
your half right..99-04 GT block is an iron block. 2005+ 4.6's are aluminum and are the strongest produced aluminum 4.6 block. Dont quote me but I think the weight reduction was in the neighborhood of 60 lbs
ive seen plenty off 05+ blocks crack.. but ive never seen the teksid's crack so the teksid is the stongest block made for us..
but 60lbs is correct
You may have seen them crack, however, Ford released the statement that they are the strongest production aluminum 4.6. That topic has been over debated so lets not go there. Bottom line the block is a lot lighter than the iron one and will handle north of 800's. Couple the 60lb weight reduction from the block with my Tubular K member/arms and that will be in the neighborhood of 100 +/- off the front end
thats also alot of horses too^ Well I don't have the knowlege or time to deal with going N/A and so the 2.1 I can put right in and be over 400 to the wheels and be happy but all the info is good. The motor is lighter but the overall weight of the 2005+ is more than my 01. on the 2010 though is lighter than my dads V6 so they did something right there.
thats why the 3V is going in my 99 gt. lighter engine in a lighter car with 3V power
yea man i was talking to someone the other day about my plans and what im saving for....and he told me the 3v are WAY batter and they are capable of making more power easier than a 2v??? does that mean it would be better to go N/A with a 3v vs a 2v? or what do you guys think?thats why the 3V is going in my 99 gt. lighter engine in a lighter car with 3V power
yes but might as well go 5.4 for N/A for the TQ
u mean 5.4 3v or the 5.4 swap that people do with 2v?
im personally going F/I but im just curious....knowledge is power
im personally going F/I but im just curious....knowledge is power
I am a FI guy as well however, if I were marching down the NA road I would go with a 5.4 with 4V heads. Basicly the more valves the more power potential.
Nitrous is one the the three forms of forced induction.A sprayed n/a car will be vastly cheaper and faster than a FI car. But if you are talking an always fun street car. The FI is better.
When looking at the N/A setup, don't forget the cost of the entire exhaust system(parts&labor) + Up Top CAI, TB, Plennum, UDP's. Plus, while it's a good long term idea to strenghten the rear unit, you don't need the cost of gears up-front for F/I. Without gears, you may not be able to even drive that N/A beast around town.
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