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FYI you need to cut like 3/4 of an inch off of the coolant crossover with a hack saw for the intake to fit good
 

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This is the intake finally on and bolted down



One thing to note, this is NOT the final version. Looking at the intake, you'll notice where the intake has the bump still from the stock IAC for the Windstar Throttle body. This part would NOT fit under my stock hood, so I used a hack saw and just leveled it off.
Crude but effective.


The rest is pretty much just putting the **** back together in the end.
This is where I left off yesterday.



There are several things I may expand on but here are the things to note.

1. Always use RTV sealer (or alternative) for sealing gaskets. I had to redo several things in order to rectify this.
2. The weight of the Intake Tubing will most likely cause the MAF to sit on the AC pulley. Make sure that you you support it somehow off of it.
3. The TPS and IAC wires need to be extended . TPS has 3, IAC has 2. Be sure not to mix them up.
4, Had to cut the GT hood scoop screw so it didn't slam the TB.
5. Need to use a GT throttlebody. The windstar and v6 will nto fit because of the top hump that is used for the IAC. This can easily be cut off from the plastic intake, but the steel of the throttle body is another story :facepalm:


I will be posting so more close-up pictures of my brackets soon so anyone who wants to can copy them.

Below are two videos.

This one is of the windstar finally running during the day. There was a massive vaccuum leak which causes the rpms to go absolutely crazy during Idle until eventually the car just shut off.
Windstar with vac leak. - YouTube


This video is after I took another trip back to HomeDepot, got some more RTV, laid it on thick, then put my final brackets on and took it for a spin shortly after.
Windstar final - YouTube


Maybe it's the placebo effect, maybe not, but it felt much more responsive compared to the stock intake!

I love you1 What parts did you have to buy
 

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2013 5.0
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2,983 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
With EGR Delete, This is everything I used that wasn't on a stock car:

EGR Delete Plate
5/8" Brass Flare Cap
3/8" Hose T
1/4" Hose T
8 Ft 3/8" vacuum Hose
5 Ft 1/4" vacuum Hose
Assorted Rubber Plugs/Caps
2x Breather Filters
Coil Pack Bracket (Fashion Yourself)
Throttle Cable Bracket (Fashion yourself)
IAC Bracket (Fashion yourself)
JB Weld (for sealing Hose Bungs)
RTV Sealer
2x 6.0mm1.0Threadx10mm bolts
2x 6.0mm1.0Threadx16mm bolt and nuts.
7x 6.0mm1.0Threadx25mm bolt and nuts.
2x 3/8" Hose Bungs
10x butt splices
25ft roll 18 gauge wire
Needle Nosed Pliers for Crimping
1 Roll of Black Electrical Tape.
Windstar intake (with O' ring gasket, runner gaskets, and stock bolts and bolt holders x12)
Various Tubing (I used a pipe from my American Muscle CAI)
GT Throttle Body (flipped upside down to work)
GT Throttle Body Gasket
MAF to Filter Adapter + Gasket
IAC Gasket
EGR Gasket

Here are Hose Diagrams.




Light Green - 1/4" vac hose
Dark Green - PCV Inlet
Yellow - Defroster? 3/8" Hose
Red - Fuel Line 1/4" vac hose
Magenta - PVC Outlet
Light Blue - Brake Booster
Dark Blue - IAC Inlet 3/8"
Brown - IAC Outlet 3/8"
Black - Cap Uneeded
White - T's (1/4" and 3/8")


PCV Hoses eliminated. I used breather filters to keep my intake clear and eliminate hoses in my bay.


2x Breather Filters

Coil Pack Bracket (Fashion Yourself)
To make this I literally held a sheet of metal to the intake and traced some holds and removed my coil pack temporarily and traced some holes. I put two extra holes because some coil packs come with 4 holes instead of 3. rather easy to reassemble.

5x 6.0mm1.0Threadx25mm bolt and nuts.


IAC Bracket (Fashion yourself)
I made 2 1/4" holes with a power drill or the bolts and two 1/2" holds to screw the bungs into and then seal up with JB Weld. Gasket goes on one side along with RTV sealer and screwing the IAC on. *** Remember the bung closer to the plug on the IAC valve goes to the intake, while the farther (bottom in my picture) bung goes to the intake PIPE***

2x 6.0mm1.0Threadx25mm bolt and nuts.
2x 3/8" Hose Bungs
JB Weld (for sealing Hose Bungs)
IAC Gasket
RTV Sealer

Throttle Cable Bracket (Fashion yourself)
Pretty easy. I just measured the distance with a string that the throttle cables needed to be anchored away from the throttle body to make the bracket and I used the stock bracket in conjunction with it in order to make it easier on myself.


2x 6.0mm1.0Threadx10mm bolts
2x 6.0mm1.0Threadx16mm bolt and nuts.


As you can see in the picture below, the IAC plug and the TPS plugs need to be lengthened. There are 3 wires for the TPS and 2 wires of the IAC. Don't get them confused when splicing in a longer wire. Obviously you will need 6 butt splices for the TPS and 4 for the IAC.

10x butt splices
25ft roll 18 gauge wire
Needle Nosed Pliers for Crimping
1 Roll of Black Electrical Tape.
 

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2013 5.0
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2,983 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
Not sure on the size. Assumed it was the same as v6. The v6 won't fit the stock hood because of the hump on the top of the throttle body for the IAC.

MAF Adapter was found on Ebay for like 10$. might be able to use the AZ one, but I'm not sure.
 

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2013 5.0
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2,983 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
So over the past several days I've been contemplating my rear end swap...

I picked up this bad ass rear-end from another member here on modded so kudos to you. It already has 4.10s installed and has this beefy looking aftermarket cover.

I got it looking like this.

Cleaned it off.

and painted it to be ready to go on.


I got to the point where I pulled my wheels off and after seeing the complexity of the wheels, I realized it was going to be a longer job than I though, and with the weight of the damn thing, I'd probably need some help. Staring at this for about 10-15 minutes, I decided that it was in my best interest to tackle something smaller. Since the installation a few months ago, one of my mufflers was sitting against the frame of my car. Needless to say, every time I turned the car on, whenever I would idle the rattle/vibration would become deafening and my fiance was begging me to have it fixed. I'm not gonna lie, it did make the car sound like it was going to fall apart.

So I dropped the entire exhaust (my fiance bought me the MAC Catback conversion) and rebolted it on with the strategy of making sure there were no rubbing parts against the frame. Car sounds and runs great.

After that, for those that were following the thread earlier, I pretty much dislodged my coolant pipe from the lower intake causing a huge coolant leak. I tried using JB weld and each time I would apply it, it would still leak, the leaking hole getting smaller and smaller. However for any who knows thermodynamics, the smaller hole only created more pressure to the point where the coolant was shooting out like a syringe coating my bay with green coolant. Well wouldn't you know it, out of desparation, I covered it with RTV gasket maker, and just like that, the gasket maker sealed it :facepalm:

Finally, I liked seeing Wickeds build thread and really liked the underside of his hood. For some reason, the red just struck me as something I had to have. He said the Previous Owner painted it on so he left it because it matched his TB. I stole it, not gonna lie. But it matches my wires and breather filters, so I'm good there. Oh and my Filter too.


Oh!! And I also Painted the intake and some misc stuff black for the Windstar Swap. FYI tighten the **** out of your stuff when you do this... Otherwise the paint will act as a lube and that **** will slip right off. Happened about 5 times to me, I would get in the car to drive off the thing would just die out on me and when I popped the hood, pipes/hoses were all over the place.

I've just gotta figure out something to do with the Alternator and the battery. I don't know about the durability of painting either of them. Alternator, I'd probably do black, and battery top I'd probably do Red. What do you guys think?



Last but not least. After seeing Son1c's polishing/photo/whatever thread, I figured it was about time to learn polishing. I have a 7424xp DA but I'm damn scared of the thing so I bought some pads and started polishing by hand with Meguiars ultimate Polish. Looks pretty good to me. I have a lot of paint chips but hopefully this will help clean up the scratches a little bit.
 

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2013 5.0
Joined
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2,983 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
This weekend I decided to tackle the swap of my rear end head-first.

First thing I did was remove the calipers



Next Rotors came off


Dust covers off


Tackling the rear sway bar


ABS... the second worst nightmare I experienced...


Upper control arms came off rather easily. Much easier than I had expected.


Lower control arms and the shocks... the problems begin...


It was at this point that I got everything off INCLUDING the nuts to the LCA's but for some reason, I have no idea why, the bushings would not under any circumstance, let go off the bolt... I spent roughly 5 hours with PB and a hammer hacking slashing and pounding and nothing worked...

As the sun began to set, I powered up the saws-all and just cut them off.


Clearly I can't install the other rear-end with half the bolt still in the bushing, does anyone have any suggestions for fixing this? Can I just replace the bushing without replacing the whole control arms?






Wrapped up, baggied up, and called it a day.



I'm heading out for the night (fiance is picking me up). If anyone has any solution to my bushings problems (it happened on both sides) let me know. I'll be checking on here when I return.
 

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2013 5.0
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2,983 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
After receiving a multitude of suggestions by fellow MM goers, I decided to get some new control arms. I found them on CL for $120...

These specifically
Steeda 1979-04 Mustang Rear Lower Control Arms - Made in the USA 555-4420 555-4421

The guy also threw in all the correct bolts for the lowers and the uppers.
So after picking them up, it was time to get the control arms out, themselves completely. So the drivers side, I tried to loosen the nut and it spun like a mother. Trapped the bolt and both came out in a matter of minutes. Jack pot MFers. Moved onto the passengers side.

Guys, if there's one thing I can impart on you. One shred of knowledge and learning experience from this project here it is.

When you try to take the nut off of the lower control arm bolt and without holding the bolt, the nut comes off, buckle up. This means that the bolt has seized to the bushing and the rubber is holding the bolt in place. This is one of those time you WANT that **** to spin.

So I went at it with a sawzall, once again. Smell of bad rubber. Sparks flying everywhere. 4 hours later, bolt cut and control arm drops. VICTORY!!!

With the sun slowly setting at this point, I decide to call it a day. Quick run (physically ran 6 blocks) to Autozone and picked up some antiseize for the re-installation. Luckily for me, they open normal hours tomorrow just in case.

Control arms in the garbage... aka back of the pickup.



PS. Here's a funny story. Using the sawzall, I had it upside down because of the angle to reach the bolt. Imagine it this way, the sawzall blade point straight up to the sky, with the trigger handle near the pavement. I obviously couldn't hold it gun trigger style so I hold it kind backwards. Thumb on the trigger, fingers between the handle and the pavement. On the first press, the blade catches the body of the saw proceeds to pound my index finger into the pavement about 30-40 times, I lost count after the 2nd.
 

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Sounds like fun lol. Nice work, I should be getting new bushings for my control arms :naughty:

Sounds like a 2hr install turned into a project lol
 

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2013 5.0
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2,983 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
Man... If I lived closer I would walk to the steeda warehouse and punch the guy in the face who put 2 hours install time... yea, it probably takes about 30 minutes to install... but 30 hours to uninstall your stockers...

All in all though, I think I should be running by tomorrow afternoon.
 

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2013 5.0
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2,983 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
So yesterday, I took the time to finish off the install. I gotta say guys, install took me about 4 hours when compared to the rest of the project, simple as jacking up the rear and putting everything back together. I used the baggy method as mentioned earlier and everything went smooth as pie.

So far after driving the car for one day here are the results.

1. Speedometer is off
2. Shifting in my auto has become erratic (waiting for new tune from Bama).
3. Car does make a slightly weird noise. I wouldn't characterize it as a whine, but it's more like a very very low "wooooooo" sound. It also only make it on throttle. If I'm maintaining speed it makes it. However, if the car is coasting down hill and accelerating, it doesn't make the sound... Interesting.

I haven't really gotten to play with the acceleration, because A. I'm a little scared to open it up without a proper tune, and B. I just wanna check all of the bolts/nuts after driving to make sure they're all still tight. Also, it rained right after I finished tightening up my brakes and has been raining since.

Requested a 93 performance tune and just filled up today at 15miles past LFL (Low Fuel Light) with 93 octane, so I should be ready to play comparison. Sure it's not really fair since prior I was running 87 tune, but still should be fun.

Sorry no pics this time around.

Oh yea and after the Steeda LCA's were installed, I gotta say, even my fiance said to me that the ride has improved. I guess my rubber bushing were utter crap.

So today I also got thinking while I was on my lunch break at work. "What could possibly have caused my bushing bolts to seize up so bad?" Well, about 6 months ago, I did install springs during the winter and in order to do that I MUST have disconnected the LCA's... I guess I was my own worst enemy in that situation because I remember I didn't put any anti-seize on it.
 
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