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Parts List

1994 Mustang GT. (5.0 Baby!)

347 Stroker Kit
SCAT Engine Components 1-94165 - Scat Engine Rotating Assemblies - summitracing.com

Stage One

Gears: FRPP 3.73

Exaust: BBK 1-3/4’’ Ceramic Longtube Headers, BBK High Flow 2.5'' Short X-Pipe, DynoMax High Flow Cat, 2.5’’ Mandrel Bent Piping, (Mufflers)Dual Borla Boomers (Thumper Series 4'' Side Round)

Cold Air: JLT Cold Air Kit for 5.0 (Black)

Underdrive Pulleys: March Performance Ultra 2110 Clear Powdercoat Alluminum

MAF: 80mm Pro-M

TB: BBK 75mm Throttle Body

Water Pump: GMB High Performance Water Pump

Radiator: Mishimoto replacement (old one cracked)

Alternator: Something around 200 amps to deal with my stereo and the underdrive pulleys

Note: I figured this pretty much covers all of the things I could get out of the way while I was saving up for the rest of the things I need for Stage 2. I already have a pretty decent Accel Ignition System in my stang which im gonna keep in there since most people seem to keep thier stock systems, and I have a new radiator on the way. Weird name but haven’t heard any bad things about them.

Stage 2

Block Modifacations: Bore 302 to 306, Stroke out to 347 w/ SCAT Engine Assemblies Stroker Kit (Link At Top of Post), Also machine work to prep for Paint.

Internals: FTI Have heard really good things about this place. Going to use the following internals and just have FTI do the rest, as far as what rockers to use.. etc

Heads: AFR 185cc

Cam: Custom FTI camshaft

Intake Manifold: Trickflow-R (Black Powdercoat)

Lifters: FRPP

Fuel Pump: Steeda 255 LPH Fuel Pump (Includes Filter)

Fuel Injectors: Steeda 30 pound Fuel Injectors

Fuel Regulator: Steeda Billit Fuel Pressure Regulator

Hoses: Russell Steel Braided Hoses and Fittings

Tuner: SCT Chip For 1994 Mustang GT (Custom burnt, not mail order)

Clutch: Stage 3 spec

Suspension: Steeda G-Trac Suspension Paks Stages 1-4 (G-Trac & Suspension Paks | Home Page)


Put this parts list together with the help of some of the guys on Mustangforums.com. Take a look at it. Give me some feedback as far as the set-up goes. Is anyone running anything similar?

I’m not sure whether or not I want to buy a stroked block or take the one I have and have it machined. Throw some input at that as well. Looking to be cost effective in this area but don’t want to regret it when my block cracks open on the pavement. Thanks for the feedback!
 

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do a windsor swap, better block, room to grow, better head sealing
 

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If it's going to be a daily driver, and you can't afford the mpg (like me) of a 351W, then you have a pretty good plan goin for ya. If mpg doesn't matter too much, swap the windsor and stroke it out.

that's my $0.02
 

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If it's going to be a daily driver, and you can't afford the mpg (like me) of a 351W, then you have a pretty good plan goin for ya. If mpg doesn't matter too much, swap the windsor and stroke it out.

that's my $0.02
uhh there is not going to be much diff in a 347 or a windsor
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The main concern is that I do not really want to buy a new block. It would be much more cost effective to bore and stroke my existing block than to purchase a new one. Would there really be that much of a difference between the windsor and the stroked block, obviously there would be if i stroked the 351 but it is going to be a daily driver.
 

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The main concern is that I do not really want to buy a new block. It would be much more cost effective to bore and stroke my existing block than to purchase a new one. Would there really be that much of a difference between the windsor and the stroked block, obviously there would be if i stroked the 351 but it is going to be a daily driver.
no the 347 will walk circles around a stock stroke windsor
 

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Why was it suggested then?
Stroking a 302 out to 347 would make the cylinder walls very thin?:dunno

Are a 351W's walls thicker? i heard that boring it out too much basically makes the block a ticking time bomb. :dunno
 

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i suggested the windsor because mustang owners never seem to be satisfied with power, sure you can build a bad azz 347 that you'll probably be content with for now but i'm sure in a couple of years ( if that long ) you'll be looking at ways to make more power and at that point you will need to either get a better block $$$$ or make the swap to a windsor and all your 302/347 specific parts won't transferr , now is the perfect time to spend a few bucks and put in a windsor, if you can't stroke it now then you can later


absolutely no disrespect to you woody as i've heard nothing but great things about you and as i said before i'll be contacting you this winter for my 408 kit but why do you say a 347 will walk over a stock stroke 351 ? i have a 30 over 351 with a dished piston, stock everything else, flat tappet hyd 292 cam, iron windsor jrs ( paid 300 fresh from machine shop ready to bolt on ) vr jr and 750 carb and it runs 11.70s @ 116 on drag radials ( it ran 11.90s with lightly home ported stock heads ) and 10.40s on slicks and a 200 shot my point is won't a stock block 347 be kinda iffy at this power level ?
 

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looks pretty dam complete, just dont forget gaskets head studs timing chain etc etc
 

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and that clutch will eat ur t5 if thats still whats in ur car
 

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i'd stay away from the "Petal" clutches... I think that "Stage 3" is one of them, correct me if i'm wrong. those things are terrible to drive on when you're just cruzin the streets...
 
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