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86 gt 5.0 ok at first shifting is easy but after running for a while (20 min or so) shifting gets hard. Specially 1st gear, its hard to put it in gear at times i force it in n when it gets to hard i just start off in second gear. Da clutch pedal is also hard like a mofo (im gonna end up with a strong left leg lol). is all this a sing to change the clutch? would that solve my problem. any help or advise would be great.
 

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i had a similar problem, then my clutch locked up. the throwout bearing was the entire cause of my situation. do you grind going into reverse if the engine has revved at all or sometimes when you shift hard?
 

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I have the same problem with the shifter, not the pedal though. someone told me it was the shift linkage but I haven't gotten around to checking into it. Anyone with advice for us?
 

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Make sure you have brake fluid in your reservoir. I think it shares the fluid with the clutch. It helped mine out some. Keeping it in gear at all times stopped my problem. It's a pain in the butt but it works. Still hard to shift from neutral to 1st after a while. I wish I knew what caused this. I don't think its the clutch though. Maybe the throwout bearing like mentioned above but I don't know. I thought all t5's grinded in reverse due to no synchro?
 

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Instead of starting a new thread, I'll just hijack this one, JK, but help me and this guy out. I already have an aluminum clutch quadrant on the car (no adjuster), the clutch disengages fine (i think anyway) and the pedal is firm but not hard to press really. For some reason it's hard as f**k to shift into 1st from a standstill. If I'm coming to a stop and I put it in 1st before I stop completely, it isn't as hard but still requires some muscle. 2nd is harder than it should be but it doesn't bother me so much. All other gears are easy. What causes this, what should I check first? I think it may be the cable, linkage, or throwout bearing but I'm not sure. Is there a way to adjust the cable at the transmission itself? What are some signs of a bad throwout bearing? Could low transmission fluid cause this? I hate that there's no dipstick for the tranny fluid. PITA!
 

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Wow didnt know that this was a problem, im having the same **** happen to me. Had the car on the lift and looked at the linkage and it seemed pretty lose and lloked to have a clip at the end of it near the trans. So im not sure if this is the problem as well but im going to order a double clutch set up and see if that works. kmedeiros88 i had the trans fluid drained and filled again and still have the same problem.Any new info i'll keep you guys updated
 

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Thanks for the info. Its harder for me to get under the car on jackstands. I can really only get my car about two feet off the ground at either the front or the back so it's a real PITA to do any kind of tranny work without another set of jackstands lol. From what I've read, it's most like the cable is worn out but I don't know if I can adjust at the clutch fork or not. Does anyone know if the aftermarket quadrant adjusts the same way as the plastic POS? I'll also let you know if I find a solution to this problem. Might save you some heartache.
 

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Ok, now I know for sure its the clutch cable that's causing my problem. When the car heats up, the heat from the exhaust is causing the cable to expand because it works fine when cold. Another indicator for me was when i was getting some taco bell by drive-thru. I noticed the car was rolling when lifting my foot of the brake with the clutch pedal to the floor. Then it stalled once I stopped as if I let off the clutch without giving it gas, but the pedal was still to the floor. Had to force the car into first and second all the way home (about 1 mile). God I hate that clunk noise. I'm going to get under the car tomorrow and use some aircraft cable crimps to tighten up the slack that's messing up my clutch cable travel, unless I find an adjuster nut when I expose the clutch fork. I'll keep you posted unless someone can chime in on how to adjust the slack. It's only off by maybe an inch, after the car warms up.
 

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Ok, I wanted to post a solution to this problem. I got under the car, took the dust shield off the tranny. Found an adjuster nut at the clutch fork and tightened up the slack on the cable. Problem solved and car shifts like butter. Don't do what I did and pry the clutch fork to get the cable out and adjust it. Adjust it in place using a 1/2 in. deep socket. The cable ended up coming loose at the quadrant and I had to pull the front seat out and have my lil bro hold the clutch pedal down until I could get the cable attached at the clutch fork. Oh yeah, and only tighten it a lil at a time. I tightened it so much that I didn't even have to push the clutch in to put it in gear. How dumb of me, lol. I adjusted it again and got it to disengage about halfway through clutch pedal travel, that way when it stretches when hot, I have plenty travel to go to still have it shift easy. Live and learn.
 

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you should have 3/4 inch play at top of pedal for a good set up and btw the brake fluid has nothing to do with the clutch at all
 

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I have more than 3/4 in of play. I set it up to start disengaging half way through pedal travel. I had it set up at first to disengage sooner but I felt like the clutch was never fully engaged so I adjusted it lower to be safe. I tested it by taking it for a ride and dumping the clutch. The first time I couldn't get it to break traction so I knew something was wrong. After adjusting it a lil at a time, I found the sweet spot. Now that clutch is grabbing fine and its easy to shift. In my manual for some reason every time they mention brake fluid, they word it like this, brake/clutch fluid. That's where I got that from. Maybe that's only for a hydraulic clutch setup, actually, that's exactly what the manual is referring to. Mcleod just started selling a hydraulic clutch system for foxbody mustangs. Price is steep though at like $600. Thanks for the info though. The last thing i want to do is confuse someone with that. Lol. Now that I think of it, I should've known that.
 
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