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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. New to the board. Hoping to get some help if possible.

I have a 93 LX. Just did some mods and now having trouble with the CA smog sniffer nazis. It barely passed before these mods, barely. I had to rev the crap out of it in the smog parking lot right before they put it on the machine.


100k miles. Original bottom end. Single owner. Well taken care of. All smog and AC is functional as far as can tell and\or test myself.




Everything listed below is whats been added within the last year, and I think could be a contributor, or I replaced because I knew I wouldnt pass smog the next time. No driving of the car other than to the smog shop and maybe a few miles of fun. =)

GT40X heads, 58cc, 9.5:1 compression. High-flow 4 cat x-pipe. Trick Flow Track Heat Intake. JBA 1 3/4" headers. 70mm Throttle Body. Pro-M 75mm MAS Air, calibrated for 24# injectors. 24# Fuel Injectors. 190 lph Fuel Pump. Stock A3M ECU. Lincoln Mark VIII radiator fan. Aluminum Radiator. High Volume Water Pump. 195 F high-flow Thermostat. Motorcraft EGR. Motorcraft PCV valve. Motorcraft 02 Sensors. Motorcraft EGR valve. Motorcraft TAD and TAB valves. Fuel, EEC and AC relays. Mallory TFI Distributor. FRPP Plug Wires. Autolite plugs for GT40X heads. Aftermarket Intake Air Temp Sensor. FRPP Hy-Vo timing chain set, running 2 degrees advanced.



Fuel pressure seems kind of low. At Idle I'm within range, but at the bottom. About 30 - 32 psi.

The thermostat I bought (EMP\Stewart), I have read of people having problems with it getting stuck open or closed. I bought a Mr Gasket already to replace it, but havent put it in yet. Temp on the dash seems high but it changed higher than previous when I replaced the sender with a aftermarket one. The car has been getting close to overheating though even considering the temp sender. Not sure if its the fan controller, or thermostat. Idling in garage fan cycles properly. When driving it gets way too hot. Leaning towards t-stat. Didn't see the temp while it was recently at the smog place so can't say if it was overheating or not. Coolant Temp Sensor for the ECU is a Motorcraft and maybe 5 or 6 years old.

Ran the numbers on compression and I should be around 9.5:1. Not much carbon buildup on the pistons, and I cleaned them when I did the heads.

Vacuum at idle is pretty strong when I pull off of the manifold. Actually went up when I changed to the Trick Flow Intake. Not to say I'm not losing vacuum somewhere else. I hate the plastic lines Ford uses. I found a cracked vacuum line to the diverter valve that sends the air from the smog pump, either to the cats or heads. Its fair to say it was always sending air to the cats and never switched back and forth between the two. Ordered some vacuum line, but its not here yet.

My IAC is a original or fairly old, but car idles well.

No check engine light or anything like that. Runs well. Car loves to spin the tires, and not go forward. lol.

If I retard the camshaft, from stock would that help the emissions? I dont think advancing it 2 degrees from stock would raise the NOx to 300% the limit.




Anyones help is humbly appreciated.
 

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I wonder if it has anything to do with the high flow cats. Maybe going back to a stock midpipe for inspection?


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
possible. when I had it at smog before I had a basani 2 cat high flow x-pipe. I was a few points from failing. I was hoping the 4 cat magnaflow would help but maybe not. I dont have the original anymore, or the basani, so I have to see what I can find.
 

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possible. when I had it at smog before I had a basani 2 cat high flow x-pipe. I was a few points from failing. I was hoping the 4 cat magnaflow would help but maybe not. I dont have the original anymore, or the basani, so I have to see what I can find.

Where are you at in ca? I've got a two cat h pipe I just took off that breezed me thru emissions
 

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You sir, are correct! Cats have nothing to do with nox.
Op, what intake do you have? What intake gasket did you use? What throttle body do you have? Has the car been tuned? Putting the car on a dyno and verifying the egr is working and what the a/f ratio is will make this a lot easier to diagnose. Verify timing is actually where you set it.
 

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Exactly, hence the reason I asked about dyno and tune. You know your stuff, most are lost on stuff like this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ignition timing is 10 degrees BTDC with spout removed.

I didn't degree in the stock cam though honestly. I already had the heads back on and don't have a solid lifter. I have the degree wheel and indicator though. When my old chain wore out my cam timing was jumping back and forth by maybe 2 degrees on both sides from where it was supposed to be. The smog guy kind of laughed when he checked the timing but it barely passed.

AF is anyones guess without a wideband. It smells really lean though. ECU is stock and no it hasn't been tuned or on a dyno. I'm relying on the PRO-M as far as the larger injectors are concerned with the AF. I have one of those BAMA tune chips, but it isn't in the car currently.

The intake is a Trick Flow Track Heat, upgraded from Edelbrock RPM. I really wanted the Edelbrock RPM II but with the Trick flow the lower intake is the same and I can swap uppers between the Track Heat and Street Burner. With the Edelbrock I'm stuck with one powerband or the other. This intake is wide open compared to the edelbrock though. I chose it cause it port matches the GT40X heads rather well. I forget exactly which lower intake gaskets I used. FRPP but I forget which ones. They were blue. Everything port matched and to my recollection they were the ones recommended for that combo.

Throttle body is BBK 70mm. Thats been on the car for a long time.

I've been contemplating getting the piggyback ECU from Anderson Ford Motorsport, or a tweecer, but the tweecer would be more difficult for me than the PMS. I'm a noob on tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes they did. Other than the Track Heat Intake the car looks stock. That said, if I went somewhere really picky I may not pass. The Track Heat isn't technically 50 state legal. The Street Burner is, but I can easily swap upper intakes. Both Track Heat and Street Burner have the porting for the EGR.

The Pro-m isnt 50 state legal, and neither are the heads. The heads you can't see and I kept the stock valve covers so you really can't tell it has heads on it. The GT40X heads have all the smog provisions, Ford just didn't want to pay for the CARB-EO so it could be street legal in a few more states. The Pro-M unless you know what the stock mass air looks like, its identical.

Its pretty loud on the exhaust but all 4 cats are there. My understanding is a 4 cat system is legal because it retains the amount of cats the car originally came with. At one point the two cat bassani was street legal and is under grandfather rules, but you can no longer legally get one that has a CARB-EO. Everything else done to the car is CA legal.

I know the technicalities, but if it passes the sniffer well then I don't see the hold up. IMO.

My goal in the build was to get as much out of the engine while still trying to have as clean a burning pushrod motor as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Really the CARB rules don't make much sense. Especially when it prevents someone from putting something on an old car that makes it more efficient and\or clean burning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I do understand the rules for when people pull all their smog stuff off to gain 5 hp. I've been behind those cars while driving and it isn't pleasant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Does anyone think it might be the injectors are undersized? I read most people run 30lbs with around this combo.

K&N Cold Air, 70 MM Throttle Body, TFS Track Heat Intake, 1.7 Roller Rockers, GT40X Cylinder Heads, JBA Headers, Magnaflow X-Pipe, Bassani Catback

?
 

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It's not a permanent suggestion nor one that will get much praise from the community, especially with motors with really high mileage. But I did read about someone who Seafoamed their car after failing a sniffer test, and posted that their NOx levels dropped like crazy after Seafoaming. Just a suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanx for the info. I'll give it a shot. Couldn't hurt anything.

It would be nice if I knew someone with a sniffer so I could play around with stuff and find what the issue is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You sir, are correct! Cats have nothing to do with nox.
Op, what intake do you have? What intake gasket did you use? What throttle body do you have? Has the car been tuned? Putting the car on a dyno and verifying the egr is working and what the a/f ratio is will make this a lot easier to diagnose. Verify timing is actually where you set it.
I used this gasket for lower intake - M-9439-A50
Head Gasket - M-6051-B51

Before I did the heads when I was trying to get it to pass smog I did the drive test where I hooked a vacuum gauge up to the egr then ziptied to the window so I could see the gauge while driving. It was turning on and off at that point in time. I have since replaced the EGR, position sensor and vacuum valve. I havent done that test again though since I put the heads on.

I'll probably get a wideband. Can you cheat if you know the voltage to AF ratio conversion for the stock O2s? Hook up a voltmeter to the o2 while its running and do the conversion? I know its not as accurate as a wideband, but would it work well enough?
 
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