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Discussion Starter #1
Spark plug #3 keeps blowing out on my 1996 3.8, any ideas on fixing this or do I just need new heads? I was thinking of something like this: tap the cylinder head to fit something like this then screw the spark plug into that...

https://www.speeddawg.com/sites/def...etric thread shift knob adapter kit 3 pcs.jpg

I know that particular piece is from a shifter handle but I could find one big enough for a spark plug right? But if I go the route of new heads I plan on porting and polishing the new ones also, would be my first time attempting this, any tips/advice for that? I already have a rotozip but what type of bits should I look for? What grit?
 

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Any parts store should have it, bring in a plug or get the thread size first so you know what you need. The kit will be expensive, probably $50-100 I'd say.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had to do what I had to do at the time it happened so right now it's jbwelded in there. It's held up for the past couple days but I'm not banking on it holding up over time. And I've kept the rpm's super low.

I found kit at advanced for $30. Didn't get a chance to use it yet because of snow, sleet and laziness so the quality is to be determined. I plan on coating the outside of the sleeve with copper based rtv and the inside with anti-seize. Sound right? Reps for pointing me in the right direction though, thanks
 

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Dude just a thought you might be leaking coolant



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if this was going on in my car, i would be concerned there is a pre-ignition issues caused by low flow injector or other issues. always torque the spark plugs to specs so you know it is not over torqued. when i play hard i always turn the radio down, open the window wide, and listen to the engine :)
got lean code? use 91-93 for play
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I do have lean codes, and misfires in cylinders 2 & 3. My radiator was leaking coolant and I just replaced it with a brand new one. I'll keep an eye on the level to see if it's still leaking from somewhere else.

So you think pulling the injectors and cleaning them is the next step? I've been researching it and just cleaned out a junkyard set that I picked up. I used this method...

Probably cleaning out my own this weekend

And I use 89, is that high enough?
 

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yea 87-89s ok if you dont hear the death rattle. if you got high mileage your injector jets are probably clogging. if you can seal off the full pressure of the can to the injector it works good, also need to pulse injector very fast like the pcm does with high rpm. i did this with gum cutter, carb/choke works too.
 

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I plan on coating the outside of the sleeve with copper based rtv and the inside with anti-seize. Sound right? Reps for pointing me in the right direction though, thanks
I coat the outside with red Loctite, silicone won't do anything, but yes the inside should be coated with anti-seize.
If you don't hear any detonation I wouldn't worry about it. Lean codes on those are usually due to vacuum leaks or PVC system issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So a hose was leaking. The stem with the coolant temp sensor has a hose/pipe combo wrapping around the passenger valve cover and into the heater core. That small piece of hose right next to the coil pack.
 
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