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I like boobs!!!
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3,869 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So my neighbors and I are doing a secret santa thing and I drew for my neighbors husband. He is not mechanically inclined, to say the least, and he drives a 1997 F250 with the 5.4. It's got around 200k miles on it and it's NEVER had plugs. That's what he's getting from me.

My question is should I do it when the engine is completely cool, warm, hot? I've heard a lot in this forum about people blowing out plugs and ruining threads, which I don't want to do. I just want to show him what a new set of plugs will do to his gas mileage. I can't believe the thing runs at all to be honest.

Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks everyone.
 

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Carport Built
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871 Posts
Do it cool, I've heard it better plus no burning your arms and hands. I have done plugs cold,hot,warm,cool,etc and never had a problem for what its worth
 

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King Trashmouth
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21,891 Posts
I was always told to do it with the engine cold. Even though they say don't use anti-seize I use a little because it gives a more accurate torque value, resists galvanic corrosion, and both will prevent you from stripping out the bore. Be very careful. The aluminum on these heads is very soft.
 

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Still slow.
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8,738 Posts
200k without being removed? Urg thats kind of scary man. :lol

Cool, not hot, and take your time. Do not rush this by any means.
 

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Registered
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200k without being removed? Urg thats kind of scary man. :lol

Cool, not hot, and take your time. Do not rush this by any means.
Exacatly what i was thinking, from what I gather from the net, the 5.4's seem to have more issues with stuck/broken which leads to blown out spark plugs then the 4.6's. Be very careful, you should also torque the plugs to spec rather then using the standard good-n-tight- method.
 

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I like boobs!!!
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3,869 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, I'm going to soak them with some Aerokroil before I try to remove them. 200k without ever being changed, If I can get this job done without any issues his truck is going to run a hell of a lot better.
 

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Head Unicorn
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5,085 Posts
Engine cool, use anti-seize. They're the same heads as your OEM units you shitcanned so use the same procedure on his.

edit: they're NPI heads... but all 2v NPI are the same is what that was supposed to mean.
 

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if its like the newer 5.4's (05ish) then i would just crack them free (cold of course and dont force it) then soak them in pb blaster or deep creep or whatever good you can find for as long as you can (i do overnight). then try to work them back and forth coming out and more than likely you will get this



if you do then lisle makes a kit to remove the broken piece (works the best imo). i hope this helps, and let us know how you make out

edit: i put the champion 1 piece in so i dont run into that problem again
 
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