Modded Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 62 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,578 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
A friend of mine is bringing his 5.0 over in the morning and Im going to help him drop her down about 1.5. I did a little research on these and went and bought a strut style spring compressor, I ll post up some before and after pics and the brand of springs he shows up with tomorrow when I get done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
Subscribed. Thinking of helping a buddy do his. Only done one set, fairly easy.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,578 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Ill take some pictures of the install as well.
 

·
Biz Jet Fixer
Joined
·
4,985 Posts
Fairly easy is an understatement. Straight forward process, not tricky if you've got proper tools.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Dont be dumb like me and snap off a strut mount stud :( o well right?
This. I misread the torque spec as 46lb ft instead of 26. Doh. If you do happen to snap one, a new OEM strut mount is like 30 bucks on rockauto.com. Fix that ****.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,578 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys, I dont plan on breaking anything Ive got all my torque specs so I dont make that mistake.
 

·
Stew
Joined
·
1,560 Posts
This. I misread the torque spec as 46lb ft instead of 26. Doh. If you do happen to snap one, a new OEM strut mount is like 30 bucks on rockauto.com. Fix that ****.
boss intake manifold.... misread "89 lbs-in" as "89 lbs-ft"......
 

·
5.Slow Driver
Joined
·
276 Posts
Super easy install and there's a YouTube video showing how somewhere and they Dont even use a spring compressor. They loosen the top strut nut with weight on the car, but leave it on like 2 threads. Jack it up, take tire off, sway bar link, then remove the top nut(most of the spring tension is gone). Drop the spring/strut and make sure the strut mount DOES NOT FALL APART SPILLING BEARINGS EVERYWHERE.TheThe lowering spring is shorter so you Dont have to compress it. Put t on the strut, push it back up through the strut mount, tighten to spec. I took off my strut mount with the strut but I'm sure you could just leave it bolted as long as it stays together.

On the rear jack it up so the tires are barely touching the ground or ramps(I backed mine onto ramps to make it have more room). Remove lower shock bolts, remove sway bar link to body bolts, raise car another few inches, swap springs, lower car and rebolt everything, voila you're closer to the pavement.
It was easy on mine because I have a hide a hitch to pull my boat so it makes a perfect jacking point to raise the whole rear at one time for stuff like this or changing to slicks.

Picture just for lols because I'm sure you'll ask. (Before the FRPP K springs)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,578 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
The victim Before



After






Front strut assembly removed


Front spring compressed


remove one 21 MM nut then Be careful when pulling the top plate or you will spill out all the Ball bearings


Fron strut assembly with new spring installed


Front strut assembly notice this needs no compression with the new spring in order to get the 21MM nut back on.



Rear Spring comparison


Rear Shock bolt removed









This was a pretty easy install, I took a few pictures along the way, this is by no means a write up. if you have any questions just let me know and ill be glad to help.
 

·
Don't BAAAAH 'Til Goatsday
Joined
·
6,530 Posts
Super easy install and there's a YouTube video showing how somewhere and they Dont even use a spring compressor. They loosen the top strut nut with weight on the car, but leave it on like 2 threads. Jack it up, take tire off, sway bar link, then remove the top nut(most of the spring tension is gone). Drop the spring/strut and make sure the strut mount DOES NOT FALL APART SPILLING BEARINGS EVERYWHERE.TheThe lowering spring is shorter so you Dont have to compress it. Put t on the strut, push it back up through the strut mount, tighten to spec. I took off my strut mount with the strut but I'm sure you could just leave it bolted as long as it stays together.

On the rear jack it up so the tires are barely touching the ground or ramps(I backed mine onto ramps to make it have more room). Remove lower shock bolts, remove sway bar link to body bolts, raise car another few inches, swap springs, lower car and rebolt everything, voila you're closer to the pavement.
It was easy on mine because I have a hide a hitch to pull my boat so it makes a perfect jacking point to raise the whole rear at one time for stuff like this or changing to slicks.

Picture just for lols because I'm sure you'll ask. (Before the FRPP K springs)
Like a BOSS
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,578 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I wouldnt have done the install without a spring compressor, it just makes the job so much easier and safer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
I wouldnt have done the install without a spring compressor, it just makes the job so much easier and safer.
Safer is the key word. Anyone who takes a strut apart without compressing the spring is nuts.
 

·
Biz Jet Fixer
Joined
·
4,985 Posts
This. I misread the torque spec as 46lb ft instead of 26. Doh. If you do happen to snap one, a new OEM strut mount is like 30 bucks on rockauto.com. Fix that ****.
I did that when I installed my Strut tower brace and still had the 2011 strut mounts. I misread it as 46lb ft (Maybe we saw the specs in the same place and there was a typo?)...As I was tightening I thought God dang that's a lot of torque for such a.....SNAP. I just tapped out the broken stud and fished a new bolt up through the spot. It worked fine for me until I finished up suspension and installed GT500 USM's.


It was easy on mine because I have a hide a hitch to pull my boat so it makes a perfect jacking point to raise the whole rear at one time for stuff like this or changing to slicks.

Picture just for lols because I'm sure you'll ask. (Before the FRPP K springs)

Got any pics from the rear? I wanna see how hidden the hitch is, I've always wanted a tear-drop trailer but I don't have a truck anymore and was always uneasy about how much the hide-a-hitches showed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
I did that when I installed my Strut tower brace and still had the 2011 strut mounts. I misread it as 46lb ft (Maybe we saw the specs in the same place and there was a typo?)...As I was tightening I thought God dang that's a lot of torque for such a.....SNAP. I just tapped out the broken stud and fished a new bolt up through the spot. It worked fine for me until I finished up suspension and installed GT500 USM's. .
I dont remember exactly where i got the torque specs, but they were right. I looked at whatever was right below upper strut mount bolt, it was some strut mount bolt, but not the upper nut. My mistake. I was thinking the exact same thing you were when i was tightening it though lol.
 

·
5.Slow Driver
Joined
·
276 Posts
I did that when I installed my Strut tower brace and still had the 2011 strut mounts. I misread it as 46lb ft (Maybe we saw the specs in the same place and there was a typo?)...As I was tightening I thought God dang that's a lot of torque for such a.....SNAP. I just tapped out the broken stud and fished a new bolt up through the spot. It worked fine for me until I finished up suspension and installed GT500 USM's.





Got any pics from the rear? I wanna see how hidden the hitch is, I've always wanted a tear-drop trailer but I don't have a truck anymore and was always uneasy about how much the hide-a-hitches showed.
 

·
Biz Jet Fixer
Joined
·
4,985 Posts
Not bad. Thanks man!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Sarge: what springs are those you installed?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,578 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Those were ford racing GT 500 springs.
 
1 - 20 of 62 Posts
Top