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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wife bought me a gift for my 05.She called Summit and they sold her their brand lowering springs which are Hotchkiss springs.Now I don't want to be a dick and send this stuff back because she is so proud of herself for doing this on her own I just can't bring myself to be negative.I take it from posts I've read that I need a boatload of parts to lower it right so where can I get the rest of what I need?
 

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Typically, you need:

1.) Springs - to lower car and adjust spring rate.
2.) Caster / Camber Plates or Camber Bolts (Eibach $27 @ TireRack) - to get back 1 degree of lost Camber when lowering.
3.) Front end alignment - fixing Camber and making sure Toe is correct.
4.) Panhard Bar - to move axle 1/8" to 3/8" back toward the passenger's side once the car is lowered. The amount of fuel in the tank will move the rear 1/8" Right to Left as the car is emptied. Probably set with 1/2 tank of fuel (avg.)
5.) Adjustable control arm. - When you lower, the pinion angle on the drive shaft is changed. You can either put in a new Adjustable Upper (3rd) link or do the Lower Control Arms (easier, but more chance of increasing NVH).
6.) Shocks and Struts - Hotchkis will most likely have a recomendation or sell a matched set for your springs. I drove mine with the stock ones for about 12K miles now and I really can't say that Tokico D-Specs are necessary. I've seen improvements, but it doesn't seem to be absolutely necessary. If you are on a budget, but are doing the work yourself, you could get away with running the stockers until you can get some better / adjustable ones.
7.) Upper Strut Bearing Caps - the stockers are "single use", but if you pay attention when you take the car apart, you can put it back precisely like it was and not have the dreaded "popping" noise.

I went low dollar the first year. I did the Springs, Panhard rod, LCAs, and Camber Bolts. Drove like a dream compared to stock. Always can add more perf. parts to improve. In perspective, the stock car is acceptable by many drivers, so it is up to you. You will not damage anything (tires, shaft and gears) as long as you make sure your alignment is done and you have the correct pinion angle. Also, make sure you install any LCAs with the proper orientation for offset. You will notice the stockers are not symetrical, so install any LCAs where there is no binding in the rear. If you follow these simple guidelines, you can make your wife happy, get your car lowered, and have something for her to get you next year.
 

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I lowered my 06 GT with the FR3 from Ford. search around for better prices than Ford is offering!!! Springs, shocks, front and rear sway bar, strut bar: all included for just over a grand. excellent drop in ride height and handling performance for the price. plan ahead with a few 2x4s to get the car off the jack.

I agree that an adjustable 3rd link and panrod bar need to be installed. recommend the HD upper strut mounts to be installed while everything is apart to solve the 'pops' and makes wheel adjustments a breeze (don't need the caster/camber plates or bolts either).

these parts can all be installed by the average mechanic in a few hours with a good set of basic hand tools. the 3rd link is a bit tricky; get a good shop manual and read it. get a quality wheel alignment afterwards. have the tech double check the pinon angle and centering of the rear end.

some owners complain of bumpsteer afterwards. i have no problem after 3Ks after install. i went ahead and replaced the lower ball joints with X5s (must have 18" wheels!) and installed the bumpsteer kit (Steeda) and noticed a bit better handling but not much. its hit and miss. if your Stang tends to drift left and right while going over bumps (more than usual), you have bumpsteer. these aditional parts to correct BS can be installed without taking everything apart again. but will require another wheel alignment.

good luck and enjoy

Wazzzy
 

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what are your desires from a suspension kit? lower stance, improved handling, straight line racing, etc. with your goal in mind, you can search for the 'system' that works best for you.

i wanted a lower stance with better handling over stock. the FR3 was perfect for me and i have no compaints. my stang is my daily driver, no track racing or excessive road course left right left right left right action. the ride is a bit stiff, but i have taken it on several 10+ hour trips without serious complaints. sore butts and lower backs are normal reguardless of vehicle type.

$1300 is way too high of a price. i paid 1K for the same package with shipping. search the i-net and deals can be found for new never installed kits.

bottom line: have fun with your mods. do the research before purchase to make sure it is what you want/need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys.Iforgot to mention she also got an Edelbrock panhard bar with the springs.I was suprised to hear about the pinion angle as this setup only lowers the rear 1.4 inches.
 

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Every car is different. Outside of the springs and panhard you have, the only REQUIRED thing is camber adjustment and an alignment. You may find that after putting in the springs you DO NOT need adjustable control arms. This is all dependent on how the lowering affects your pinion angle.

As stated, if you have the tools and have some mechanical savy, do the drop and then check your pinion angle and see if you need adjustable control arms. If you are going to have this stuff done, then do the whole thing together to cut down on overall labor.

You will be surprised how well the car handles with the springs, panhard, camber bolts and an alignment.

You just don't want to have the car track funny, ruin your tires, or tear up your gears.
 
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