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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am leaking from the valve covers.... Had I just installed my damn HiTech's a year or two ago I wouldn't have this problem.

Might as well buy some cams too. Any suggestions?

I've heard these are good. I don't want to have anything that will require me to do something to the pistons or the valves.

1999-04 Mustang 4.6L 2V Comp Extreme Energy Camshafts, Xe270ah-13 at LRS - Same Day Shipping!

I am willing to also have the valve springs changed.

Now i lost interest in cars a long time ago, so i'm a little rusty on things that I used to know from when I cared... what valve springs will I need again?
 

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mhs stage 2's
 

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it was the first thread at the top and i was telling him how to get ahold of nick...

and yes they do but they dont promise drop in no problems on them also thats the difference duhhhhhhhhh!!!!:p
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
They still shouldn't advertise them like that. What type of business is that? I'm glad I sold my cams. I might have avoided an oil leak had I installed them, but at the cost of other more expensive parts...
 

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well if the owner of the company tell you to...even with them straight up and motor in safemode..then something is wrong lol...and you have the right to be pissed off lol..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This scares me lol

Refund, Returns, and Cancellation Policies:

To keep our prices low custom parts and/or assemblies have no refund policies once the order is placed. We do not offer a refund, return, or exchange on any custom part/service. This includes all Bullet cams and/or head and cam combos and/or any head repair work.

Returns on parts will require a 25% restocking fee. Any returns or exchanges MUST be un-opened. If there is a situation where your part is damaged, you must provide us with that information within 3 business days of receiving your product. You must save all packaging. Packages that arrive externally damaged please take digital pictures before opening for any possible shipping claim that may arise.

Customer is responsible for all actual shipping expenses with a returned item. This includes our true cost of shipping to the customer.


Emission Information:

Many products listed here are dedicated racing items and are not intended for street use in emission controlled vehicles. Unless otherwise stated, these parts are not to be installed in vehicles subject to emission control regulations. Check with your state emission authorities before installation of any parts listed here which do not carry an emissions compliance.

Modular Head Shop makes no warranties or guarantees, express or implied, as to the emission law compliance of any of its products.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Really considering the MHS cams. Just waiting for a reply Email. What valve springs will I need? What about degreeing? what is degreeing? I haven't cared about cars for so long i totally forgot everything lol :/

I need to be re-educated on this...
 

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it doesnt matter your not doing the install.. walley is lol...talk springs with nick...he can lead you in the right direct since his customers is pretty much all 2v guys..
 

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some people i've heard recommending the MHS one's some don't however. CMS and Comp I guarantee you will be happy with. Comp cams have a set of springs you can get to go with the cams, and CMS site is really good and matching up springs with their cams. I'm not too familiar with degreeing the cams, but some other more knowledgeable people will help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
it doesnt matter your not doing the install.. walley is lol...talk springs with nick...he can lead you in the right direct since his customers is pretty much all 2v guys..
Just wanting to know everything I'll need lol. I did ask Nick about springs in my Email. Unfortunately I had to email him at is company email instead of PM. It said 1 to 2 business days for a reply! :eek:
 

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Nick knows his cams the best and would be able to tell you if you need to upgrade your valve springs. He can make a recommendation on spring type depending on what cam you go with. I just bought some blower cams from Nick. He did a wonderful job of educating me about cams and which one would be best for my application.

Degreeing:
The lobes of a camshaft dictate when intake/exhaust valves open and close. The camshafts run directly off the rotation of the crankshaft so the valves open and close at the correct time with respect to the position of the pistons; which is also dictated by the crankshaft. Extreme example - If your piston is at top dead center (TDC) you don't want your valve to be open all the way because the piston and the valve would be trying to share the same space (this doesn't work too well). Valves can be partially open and still cause piston to valve (PTV) clearance problems. Because high performance cams have increased lift and/or duration, it is crucial to degree the cams correctly to prevent the valves from hitting the pistons. This is also why upgraded springs are probably recommend. Upgraded springs can keep up with the opening and closing speeds necessary to run a higher performance cam.

The chains that connect the cams to the crank have dots to line up to the sprockets at the crank and the cam, which is a good starting point with any degree job. However, not all (if any) cams are ground perfectly to their advertised specs. You could just set up the cams dot to dot on the chains and if the cam was ground far enough off in degree, this could cause PTV. By measuring when the valves are opening with respect to piston locating, you can adjust when the valves open to prevent PTV problems. I hope that makes sense.
 
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