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Discussion Starter #1
After owning the car for almost 9 years now, I finally bit the bullet and ordered some Pypes long tube headers. My previous experience with headers is you have to tighten the bolts occasionally but Stage 8 bolts prevent this. I did a search and didn't find anything on here about Stage 8 bolts. Is bolt loosening not an issue?
 

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gtscrewd
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On our years get them snugged up check them after a few heat cycles I've never had a regular bolt / stud loosen up.
 

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They are such a pain in the ass to get on, but they will NEVER loosen lol
 

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RAT FINK
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I originally put my headers on with regular bolts, tightened 'em good and never checked them, pulled them the next year, only had one bolt that wasn't completely tight but I'd already ordered the Stage 8's so I installed them anyway.

The Stage 8's aren't bad to install but you have to be VERY CAREFUL with the clips and tabs. They only give you 16 clips and 16 tabs so if you lose one (which is very easy to do, I almost did), you're screwed.

But, you can put on the tabs and push the clips on with your finger if you align it to the flats of the bolt.

You honestly probably don't need them though.
 

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I tried the stage 8 setup initially and didn't like it and then a friend turned me on to "Nord Lock" washers and they have been working great for approx 4 years now.

I don't remember the size but I went with the stainless steel ones and couldn't be happier.

McMaster-Carr
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advice everyone.
 

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I've had the provided bolts from my Mac headers for almost 35k-40k miles. No issues, that I know of.
 

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Resident Diabetic...
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Has anyone ever used the stock bolts? Or will I need new bolts? I like the Nord Lock idea. I might grab some.
 

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I know on my Macs, the stock studs will not work. They are too long and hit the headers when trying to tighten them down. I'm pretty sure it's the bottom ones that cause the problem. I had to swap them out after getting almost all of them on and realizing what I had done.
 

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I love to skydive
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I know on my Macs, the stock studs will not work. They are too long and hit the headers when trying to tighten them down. I'm pretty sure it's the bottom ones that cause the problem. I had to swap them out after getting almost all of them on and realizing what I had done.

I forced mine to work on my macs it's fine but one stud presses into the header
 

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Resident Diabetic...
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I forced mine to work on my macs it's fine but one stud presses into the header
is it possible to just grind the factory stud down for clearance?
 

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I forced mine to work on my macs it's fine but one stud presses into the header
The only way to tighten that one down would be with an open end wrench right? I believe I may have left some of the outside studs on because they sure as hell help with trying to line up the factory gaskets. I just didn't want that stud to rub against the header. I wasn't sure if there would be vibration noises or if the stress overtime would cause it to puncture or cause problems later on. When I got to that point in the install, I learned that I never want to have to swap out the headers for anything again.
 

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I love to skydive
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Yeah I did have to use an open ended wrench. I'll grab a pic in a little bit.

I don't want to swap headers but mine are rusting out hard. But I'm still not thinking it's worth it ha
 

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I used Stock studs on my MAC Long tubes for an 01 Mustang. They have loosened up over time. I will probably try some type of locking bolts or washers next time.
 

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I have stage 8 locking bolts but I put mine on outside the car. It wasn't bad at all
 
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