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hi you can call me mater
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Discussion Starter #1
So I just got my stall converter in but the car isn't tuned,it's a 3200 stall paired with a tranny cooler how much of a kick in the pants can I expect? Will it be even more than my 4.10s?
 

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You don't need a tune for a stall converter. Youll notice some better acceleration.
 

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You don't need a tune for a stall converter. Youll notice some better acceleration.
I had to get my lock up points adjusted in the tune. And the fact that the converter allowed more slip than the stock one made my 'load' pid go nuts, and had to readjusted in the tune as well. Granted, I am blown and cammed, so that may have had something to do with it.

OP, when I did my stall it was probably the bigger seat of the pants difference since the blower. Mine is a 3800-4000 flash triple disk with lockup.
 

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I had to get my lock up points adjusted in the tune. And the fact that the converter allowed more slip than the stock one made my 'load' pid go nuts, and had to readjusted in the tune as well. Granted, I am blown and cammed, so that may have had something to do with it.

OP, when I did my stall it was probably the bigger seat of the pants difference since the blower. Mine is a 3800-4000 flash triple disk with lockup.
I can see that, I keep forgetting about lockup but you don't need lockup AT WOT anyhow.
 

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I can see that, I keep forgetting about lockup but you don't need lockup AT WOT anyhow.
Yeah if OP didn't buy a lock up unit he might be able to get away without a tune.

With a triple disk converter and my lowish (<600) power level, I can lock up mine at WOT though. It's a wild ride when it locks up at the track lol.
 

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hi you can call me mater
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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah if OP didn't buy a lock up unit he might be able to get away without a tune.

With a triple disk converter and my lowish (<600) power level, I can lock up mine at WOT though. It's a wild ride when it locks up at the track lol.
Yeah mine is a lockup unit triple disk as well. It's actually a 3200-3600 stall
 

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Yeah if OP didn't buy a lock up unit he might be able to get away without a tune.

With a triple disk converter and my lowish (<600) power level, I can lock up mine at WOT though. It's a wild ride when it locks up at the track lol.
I was told by a reputable builder never to lockup at WOT.
 

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Yeah mine is a lockup unit triple disk as well. It's actually a 3200-3600 stall
You will probably need to get your lock up settings adjusted, and shift points modified to take advantage of the higher stall speed. I think you will be very pleased with that size converter.

I was told by a reputable builder never to lockup at
WOT.
At you're power level, I agree whole-heartedly. Locking up is going to be way too harsh on the trans internals. I've always heard it was okay for cars below 700rwtq, though. Silverfox makes a built trans that I'm looking into buying, and it pretty much comes with a disclaimer that you shouldn't lock up the converter at WOT above a certain power level.

I don't have any data to back this up or anything, but I did work hand in hand with Circle D to pick out a stall converter with strong enough internal clutches strong enough to handle being locked up at WOT with 600rwtq or so, which gives me room to grow in the future. :naughty: I feel like that is a reputable company, and they wouldn't have worked so hard to help me spec out a converter if it was going to self-destruct later on down the road. It has survived several dozen track passes, and probably 50 WOT pulls on the street so far, though. :)
 

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Im only making 600RWHP :shiftyeyes:shiftyeyes
 

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Im only making 600RWHP :shiftyeyes:shiftyeyes
Of course, of course. Btw, I've noticed in some of the videos you've posted lately that your car is making a strange high-pitched whining/hissing sound when you accelerate. I think maybe your AC compressor is going out, you might want to look into that. :whackylol:
 

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hi you can call me mater
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Discussion Starter #11
I can't just drive it all the time without a tune tho cause the shift points need to be adjusted don't they?
 

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I'm honestly not sure man, I never tried to drive mine without adjusting the shift points or lockup points first. I know that in the first tune I uploaded, those were all adjusted and I still had to get the MAF curve dialed in for the car to run right.

You can try it, the worst thing that will happen is the converter will try to lock up too early and throw you into the windshield lol.
 

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You can drive it just don't go WOT and the shift points wont be an issue over revving and such. For daily driving and mild applications your good.
 

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hi you can call me mater
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Discussion Starter #14
You can drive it just don't go WOT and the shift points wont be an issue over revving and such. For daily driving and mild applications your good.
Ok then I won't load it to the trailer than. Should I adjust the shift pressure all the way up too?
 

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Ok then I won't load it to the trailer than. Should I adjust the shift pressure all the way up too?
No I wouldn't mess with any pressure let the tuner do that.
 

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Of course, of course. Btw, I've noticed in some of the videos you've posted lately that your car is making a strange high-pitched whining/hissing sound when you accelerate. I think maybe your AC compressor is going out, you might want to look into that. :whackylol:
Mine does that too, has for a LONG time, I think it may be rollers in the trans, at least someone who knows trans infinitely more than me suggested that after riding with me.

Dang it, I want a stall again!!

On my budget that'll be about 2 years form now :(.

Once again some good info in here, I never once thought about Load calculations being off with a stall, but it makes complete sense.
 

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Mine does that too, has for a LONG time, I think it may be rollers in the trans, at least someone who knows trans infinitely more than me suggested that after riding with me.

Dang it, I want a stall again!!

On my budget that'll be about 2 years form now :(.

Once again some good info in here, I never once thought about Load calculations being off with a stall, but it makes complete sense.
I was actually just teasing Pate, I'm pretty sure he has some sort of power adder that would cause a high pitched whine when he accelerates. A turbo whine, you could say. I'm also pretty sure he is making a bit over 600rwhp lol. :)

Every time you want to do a small mod, take that money and just put it in the bank. After a few months you'll have enough saved for a stall converter. It's completely worth it, trust me. Best mod I've done since the blower.
 

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The WOT shift points in the tune are totally determined by MPH settings, not RPM.

I wish they didn't do it this way as you have to redo them anytime you change gears or tire diameters.

The stock tune also reduces engine torque during shifts so you probably won't hurt the trans by going WOT on it without a retune.

The tuner will increase the line pressure during shifts but will also probably eliminate the torque reduction.

The other thing you can control in the tune is when the converter lock up occurs. I delayed the lock up after 1-2 shift about 1 second to keep from hitting the tires too hard and to let the RPM's come back up a little.

It feels like another gear shift when the converter locks, but if you don't have a torque converter with a strong enough clutch to handle this for your HP level don't do this locking at WOT.

Some trans builders (Freddie Brown is one) don't like using locking converters with their trans but several are ok with it as long as the trans and converter are built to take it.

Controlling the line pressures in the tune is doable but tricky.

There are engine torque tables that are used to set the pressure at various torques so you can modify those to change the pressures.

There are also setting for how much pressure is applied when the throttle goes WOT.

However the numbers set in the tune aren't the actual line pressures, the actual pressure is higher than the tune number.

The actual pressure is also a function of the spring stiffness and setting in the valve body.

So the only way to know what the line pressures really are (and this is important to know) is to put a gauge on the trans, there is a port just ahead of the shifter on the drivers side you can connect to for this pressure.

Most trans guys like to see it in the 190 to 210 range during WOT.

I connected a pressure sensor there and I datalog it along with my wideband AFR.
 

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Of course, of course. Btw, I've noticed in some of the videos you've posted lately that your car is making a strange high-pitched whining/hissing sound when you accelerate. I think maybe your AC compressor is going out, you might want to look into that. :whackylol:
The alternator bearing is going out :)
 

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I was actually just teasing Pate, I'm pretty sure he has some sort of power adder that would cause a high pitched whine when he accelerates. A turbo whine, you could say. I'm also pretty sure he is making a bit over 600rwhp lol. :)

Every time you want to do a small mod, take that money and just put it in the bank. After a few months you'll have enough saved for a stall converter. It's completely worth it, trust me. Best mod I've done since the blower.
Oh yeah, I actually have a dedicated saving account just for car crap, which I only really put anything in when I'm working a lot of OT, other than that bills come first.
I was pretty close to getting a stall but decided on getting the cams instead. I'm still debating whether I want to go the 5 speed route or stay auto.
 
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