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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have been lookin around online for a while on what I wanted to do with my 6er and I have finally decided, but I am engine mod stupid on certain things. That being said I have a list of what I wanna do with my auto.

4.2 stroker kit (forged)
split port intake manifold
port and polish upper and lower
long tube headers
straight pipes (catted)
bassani catback
8.8 rear
4.10 gears
t-lock differential
transmission cooler
torque converter
lowering springs
shocks and struts
rear sway bar
tubular front sway bar
front tower brace
rear brace
subframe connectors
tune
underdrive pulley
turbo (maybe twin turbo)
MAF
Throttle body

Here is where I need the help of the more tech savvy and experienced people. Is there anything on my list that I forgot, don't need, or that i need to change during the process of this build (end goal of build is turbo or twin turbo). Any help is much appreciated!

Thanks
 

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You already have a split port intake and also look into getting a cam. Im that the right guy to be talking about specs and stuff. Wait till like Chris or one of those guys from the other sixxer site come in.
 

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if you go turbo or TT then you can't have UDP. well you can but it is very very hard to tune and really don't help any.

what is your main goal with this car? do you want to be FI or do you want to be NA?

Chriss torres can help you greatly.
 

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LOL OMG I was seriously going to say save your money and get a cobra ..... then I realized I have a lot of whats on your list LOL. I need to take my own advice.

But seriously if you are DEDICATED to this route ......

Start with your supporting mods. They are usually cheaper and quicker. So:

port and polish upper and lower *really this would be part of your 4.2 build

long tube headers
straight pipes (catted)
bassani catback - *This part doesnt really make sense because with turbo or TT you cant have long tube headers. More then likely you will need to have a custom setup after the turbo dump to the catback. Not 100% sure in this area.


8.8 rear
4.10 gears
t-lock differential - *comes with an 8.8 rear end, no need to list it.

transmission cooler
torque converter - *Good. I also recomend a shift kit for the auto trans. You should have a 4R70W. Look up B&M Shift go or Transgo. You basically modify the valve body of the transmission. You can also get a hammer shifter if you want the option of manually shifting.

lowering springs
shocks and struts

rear sway bar
tubular front sway bar
front tower brace
rear brace - * Be careful in this area, dont just slap them all on at once. Do one at a time. Reason being is you want to know how each mod effects your steering and feel of the car. You may not end up needing/wanting all these. Also are you wanting to road race? If you want to drag race you will need a different setup.

subframe connectors
tune

underdrive pulley - *Someone said you cant use this with turbo, as far as I know it that is wrong. Turbo is exhaust fed and has nothing to do with the belt driven parts of the engine. HOWEVER you cant use this with a normal supercharger. You CAN use it with the eaton m1112 mod though.

That should give you a general idea.
 

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LOL OMG I was seriously going to say save your money and get a cobra ..... then I realized I have a lot of whats on your list LOL. I need to take my own advice.

But seriously if you are DEDICATED to this route ......

Start with your supporting mods. They are usually cheaper and quicker. So:

port and polish upper and lower *really this would be part of your 4.2 build

long tube headers
straight pipes (catted)
bassani catback - *This part doesnt really make sense because with turbo or TT you cant have long tube headers. More then likely you will need to have a custom setup after the turbo dump to the catback. Not 100% sure in this area.


8.8 rear
4.10 gears
t-lock differential - *comes with an 8.8 rear end, no need to list it.

transmission cooler
torque converter - *Good. I also recomend a shift kit for the auto trans. You should have a 4R70W. Look up B&M Shift go or Transgo. You basically modify the valve body of the transmission. You can also get a hammer shifter if you want the option of manually shifting.

lowering springs
shocks and struts

rear sway bar
tubular front sway bar
front tower brace
rear brace - * Be careful in this area, dont just slap them all on at once. Do one at a time. Reason being is you want to know how each mod effects your steering and feel of the car. You may not end up needing/wanting all these. Also are you wanting to road race? If you want to drag race you will need a different setup.

subframe connectors
tune

underdrive pulley - *Someone said you cant use this with turbo, as far as I know it that is wrong. Turbo is exhaust fed and has nothing to do with the belt driven parts of the engine. HOWEVER you cant use this with a normal supercharger. You CAN use it with the eaton m1112 mod though.

That should give you a general idea.
thats it. im sorry i did post that wrong. it's a supercharger you can't use under drive pulleys with. i apologize for the wrong info. thanks for the correction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok thanks guys for the help so far. Here is my modified list with the info provided so far.

4.2 stoker kit (forged)
Custom true dual exhaust dumped out the back
8.8 rear
4.10 gears
transmission cooler
torque converter
shift kit
lowering springs
shocks and struts
front and rear sway bar
front and rear bracing
subframe connectors
tune
under drive pulley
turbo maybe TT
MAF
throttle body

Now for the stupid question, what is the Cam?

When I was orginally lookin for a mustang I realized that I only wanted a v8 if i was gonna go out racing every weekend (which I wont do) so in reality I don't need an 8 so the 6 suits my DD driving needs.

I want a car that i can use as my DD but i could still use on road tracks every now and then. Also ... I want to give the 6 enough juice to run down a stock or slightly modified gt (by slightly modified I mean intake,exhaust, maybe a tune, and other small stuff) but still look stock from the outside. At least once a week some guy in a gt with a new exhaust thinkin he rules the road will find me on the highway between 1-4am (on my way home from girlfriends house) and take off and I want enough power to be able to run him down and knock that big ego down a few notches. I don't need to be able to keep up with him after that just run him down and back off. I am pretty sure a single turbo will give me that power but I am playin with the idea of a TT just for shits and giggles . . . and for the fun factor :woot
 

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A single turbo will be enough, and you cant do TT without heavily modifying a lot of other engine componets to make room for it. A single turbo with nothing else can put you into the mid 13s.
 

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214/214 .540-.550 lift cam would work nicely

if you want to DD a 600hp V6 i'd pick a different car.
Cause no one is doing it or has. theres cars that "Pose" that potiential but its simply just posing.
In the end Simple setups work best. especially if your trying to DD.
I'd honestly look into a cheap DD or just some kinda DD
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wouldn't try to push 600hp out of a six and call it my DD, if that's what it came across as then I will word things better from now on. I'm only lookin for 350-400 with the turbo and I want to do it as safely and reliably as possible, like I said I was pkayin with the idea of a TT for shits and giggles
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hypothetically if I wanted a 600+hp car I would by a 4v and rebuild it for drag use only :)
 

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If you are going to get a new torque converter it will not be as easy to drive on the street. A higher stall means that you will have to rev the engine higher to get moving.
 

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i would just recommend not putting the built motor in if your only looking at 350-400. Chris pushed like 380ish on the stock block and 350-370 would be fine. that would just save you a couple g's and you could spend it on other things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Another one of my stupid questions

I should get a tune right away if I stroke my 3.9 to a 4.2 right? And I should do the same after every engine/trans mod I do?
 

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If you are going to get a new torque converter it will not be as easy to drive on the street. A higher stall means that you will have to rev the engine higher to get moving.
Not really. The 3,000 PI I had worked like the stock one unless you went WOT on it. Then it would jump right to 3000 RPM's.

i would just recommend not putting the built motor in if your only looking at 350-400. Chris pushed like 380ish on the stock block and 350-370 would be fine. that would just save you a couple g's and you could spend it on other things.
A built motor would give more longevity, and if done right better performance than a stock block.

Another one of my stupid questions

I should get a tune right away if I stroke my 3.9 to a 4.2 right? And I should do the same after every engine/trans mod I do?
Yes after a 4.2 swap. It depends on the mod, bolt ons no, torque converter or valve body, Yes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks guys
 
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